Stainless Marking Stencils--Anyone use these/know how to cut them

Razor saw..

Then use a small file, like a metal nail file, to de-burr it at the cut...

Or the grinding wheel, if you have a Dremel tool..

Citadelgrad87 wrote:

I recenlty got some german stencils to paint rather than decal my models, one is crosses, the other is numbers for AFVs.   They work great, but consist of a stainless strip about 5" long, luckily I was using the end cross, if I needed a middle one, I can see how the configuation would be in the way. I'd like to cut them so I have postage stamp sized, SQUARE portions.  It's a bit thicker than photoetch, about like a drafting template, and I cannot figure out how to cut it without curling it or bending it, and I need to have them square so I can easily align them for straight markings. Any help is appreciated, as always.

I've tried to find these, and I can't seem to locate them.  Maybe my searches aren't "worded" right or something, but I don't know what to change in them.  Could ya give me a link or hint about where you got them?

Michael 

http://www.greatmodels.com/~smartcart/cgi/display.cgi?item_num=TC2004

They are called "1/35 TC2004 German AFV Crosses (Balkankruz) Templates" I can't imagine anyone ever finding them unless they trip over them just paging through general "acessories," which is they way I found them, but then I really lucked out and found them at my LHS.

Here's a picture:

I've been thinking about making a couple sets of these.  It seems like a good thing to practice photo-etching on.  Since I paint all my markings, a set of reusable masks of national markings, letters, and numerals sounds like it would be very handy.  I'll have to check up on this and let you guys know how it turns out.

Cheers,
Alex

Question:

Why?

Decals are thinner than paint and have quite a lot of detail. What is the benefit of painting the markings on a model?

I was thinking of going the opposite route and start making my own decals on my computer printer.

Personally, I think the stencils use makes the markings look "painted on" which is how they were really applied.

I can set down a thin enough coat of white on my fist try, i might add, that you cannot feel the edge with your fingernail, and no silvering, ever.

Also, I like that it reacts to weathering, of any type, exactly the way the rest of the paint on the model does, no strange shininess, silvering, texture difference.

Plus I think it's cool, truth be told.

Citadelgrad87 wrote:

Personally, I think the stencils use makes the markings look "painted on" which is how they were really applied. I can set down a thin enough coat of white on my fist try, i might add, that you cannot feel the edge with your fingernail, and no silvering, ever. Also, I like that it reacts to weathering, of any type, exactly the way the rest of the paint on the model does, no strange shininess, silvering, texture difference. Plus I think it's cool, truth be told.

Excellent points!

DON'T USE THE RAZOR SAW!!! Why would you want to cut metal with a saw designed for plastics? All you're going to do is dull the saw. Instead use a PE Shears or an old pair of scissors.

Use the right tool for the job.

HawkeyeHobbies wrote:

DON'T USE THE RAZOR SAW!!! Why would you want to cut metal with a saw designed for plastics? All you're going to do is dull the saw. Instead use a PE Shears or an old pair of scissors.     Use the right tool for the job.

How about some sharp tin snips?

Hans von Hammer wrote:

Been using the same X-acto razor saw for both metal and plastic for about 30 years...

...probably made in the Ruhr Valley no doubt!

trexx wrote:

Hans von Hammer wrote: Been using the same X-acto razor saw for both metal and plastic for about 30 years...  ...probably made in the Ruhr Valley no doubt!

Natürlich...