Gravity feed!!!!

I like MikeV' answer to just have a spare needle and nozzle around. You can always play with a tweaked part later. I've always recycled when I can so repairing an airbrush is part of my nature. Mike is also right in saying use a sheet of glass and twist the point of the needle to straighten it. It works.

Mike...Hayward is too close to San Francisco for me; too much traffic (scary). I usually go through Hayward at least once a week to either southbound Fremont, San Jose or north to San Leandro. I like it here in the flatlands of the Central Valley. There are lots of nice islands, boats, sea-going freighters to enjoy here. Lots of room here.

The way that is usually recommended for fixing a bent needle tip is to lay the needle on a piece of glass at the angle the needle is ground at and draw the needle towards you while rotating the needle. This can straighten out the bent tip if done correctly. Of course the best thing to do is just have another needle or two as a spare.

Mike

guys, ya'll might think im crazy but instead of making the paste you mentioned, i took some 2000 grit sand paper and did what your talking about until the needle point was nice and smooth again and it worked pretty well. i was able to achieve some really thin lines with the "salvaged needle".

I hear you. I am a tinkerer myself and I might do the same thing.
Hey, you and I are only about an hour's drive from each other.
I am in Hayward.

Mike

LOL, I don't have a life. Once in a while I get bored and need something to do.

roosterfish,

That's a lot of work for a $3.65 part.

Mike

Salty, do you know you can, with patience and time, regrind the needle tips on the airbrush? I've done it.

Grind the needle with a wet stone at the same angle always twisting the needle and pulling away from the tip. When it feels pointy and looks right then make a paste with cigarette ash and butter or margarine. Rotate and stroke the needle with the paste mixture between your finger and thumb always stroking away from the tip of the needle (duh!). I usually do the paste tip smoothing for about 30 minutes. When that needle feels smooth clean it off really good and give the needle a try.

Do this needle tip sharpening when you are bored or watching a TV show and the time goes much faster. It is easier done than said.

QUOTE: Originally posted by saltydog i couldn't remove it with my bare fingers so i grabbed a pair of pliers to get a grip. at first i pulled gently, then applied more and more pressure until all at once the needle gives way. unforturnetly i wasnt pulling straight out and it instantly bent the middle portion of the needle and i could never get it straight enough to use again.

The next time this happens, grab the needle from the back with pliers as you did but instead of pulling on the needle, twist it one way and then the other like you are trying to unscrew it. This will break the paint bond without risking damage to the needle.

QUOTE: a couple of weeks later im brushing and decide this wasnt going to happen again so i totally disassemble the airbrush from top to bottom and cleaned every crook and cranny with lacquer thinner.

I hope you didn't get lacquer down into the air valve as those seals are not solvent proof. If you didn't submerge the entire airbrush in lacquer than it should be alright.

QUOTE: but needle 5 has lasted a good while so far. the paacshe vl # 3 needle is like a tree trunk compared to he omni needles. i no longer own a vl though.

I had a VL also and sold it after buying a Vega 2000.

Mike

well one needle bit the dust when (these are probably rookie mistakes mind you) i went to use the brush after it had been sitting over night. i started the airflow and pulled back on the lever to start the paint flow and it was jammed. (due to some paint getting in the back tube where the needle slides through) i couldn't remove it with my bare fingers so i grabbed a pair of pliers to get a grip. at first i pulled gently, then applied more and more pressure until all at once the needle gives way. unforturnetly i wasnt pulling straight out and it instantly bent the middle portion of the needle and i could never get it straight enough to use again. a couple of weeks later im brushing and decide this wasnt going to happen again so i totally disassemble the airbrush from top to bottom and cleaned every crook and cranny with lacquer thinner. upon reassembly i was slidding the needle throught the tunnel (ever so gently may i remind you) until all of a sudden i hit something solid (ever so gently may i remind you) pull it back out to give it another go and notice the tip had a slight curl on the end. needle three simply rolled off the table hitting sharp end first and viola. needle 4 i was brushing some acrylic (im trying to totally convert to acrylic but it is a very frustrating process so far but im getting useful advice from the forum so far) so im dobbing some globbed up paint from the tip with a q-tip and i really dont know what happened but it was about the 40th time in about 5 minutes of practice that i had wiped the tip and...and...well you know.....i.....i....kinda wiped a little to hard. but needle 5 has lasted a good while so far. the paacshe vl # 3 needle is like a tree trunk compared to he omni needles. i no longer own a vl though.

Thanks for the input saltydog.

How did you ruin 4 needles already?
I have had an Omni 3000 for quite a while and never noticed anything different between how fragile they are in comparison to any other airbrush I have.

Mike

i order the onmi 5000 a couple of months ago from dixieart and am still getting used to the double action. i found that when cleaning this line of airbrushes do not remove the needle fully from the brush. ive ruined 4 needles just cleaning when i completely remove them. the needles for this line is very, very sensitive and you can damage the sharp point easily. im also a rookie to modeling but have played with airbrushes on and off for about 5 yrs. i have a paashe vl double action siphon feed, H type single action (very excellent airbrush for modeling), and the omni 5000 gravity feed. like i say, im a rookie with the omni 5000 but so far im tickled pink with the fine lines im able to achieve with about 8 to 15 pounds of pressure. you can thin the paint down about 60 paint/ 40 thinner and just amaze yourself. have fun.

Personally, I prefer gravity feed for a few reasons, I got a few brushes(4 at last count). I holder with Water trap for all 4.

When I was younger I used to use syphon/suction feed and side feeds neither are bad but didn't suit me.

I find gravity feed brushes easier and qicker to clean and I do my own repairs on them too. The Cup on Syphon feeds at times tended to obstruct my view.

Two of my gravity feeds got a fixed cup and two got removable cups with lids.

I think in the end it is not a question of which is better but which suits your needs and likes more.

Chris,

I just ordered my Omni 4000 with an extra tip and needle from Dixie.

We can compare our reviews on the 4000 in a few days.

Mike

Cool

A new toy on the way.

Mike

I went ahead and bit the bullet and ordered the T&C/Badger Omni 4000 from DixieArt about 10 minutes ago! I still need a water trap for my compressor sears only had one style and I really didnt care for it...So I'll check a few places tomorrow!

BTW MikeV thanks for your suggestions and help!

love the new siggy chris!!!

Oh boy another airbrush thrown into the fray for a decision LOL....Thanks for the link Mike I must have just missed the T&C listing....

One might also concider the Iwata Revolution Hp-CR. It performes like other high-end Iwatas but without the high-end price. The Revolution gravity-feed double action goes for only $59.00 at Dixie Art web site, and shipping is free and fast! Happy modeling!

ok, then i want the 4000!!!!

Ron,

The 4000 is the one with the cap, the 5000 is a smaller cup with no cap. Badger's web site put the names above the airbrushes instead of below so it is confusing.

Mike

I like the 5000, cause it has a cap on the cup!!!!

I keep forgetting , and keep spilling paint!!! DOH!!!!

Chris,

Bear Air has them under 'Thayer & Chandler' link from the 'Airbrushes/Parts link on the opening page.
http://www.bearair.com/

They are $3.95 cheaper than Dixie but they will charge you their $10 shipping fee which makes it more than Dixie's price of $69.95 with free shipping. Of course that all depends on what company you trust as some like Dixie and others prefer BearAir.
http://dixieart.com/Omni.html

Mike

Mike thats the one Im wanting....My LHS doesnt carry Badger at all nor T&C so where could I go online to get one? I didnt see them at Bear Air....

Sounds good Chris.

I am seriously considering a new Omni 4000 myself as I made a little money on some things I sold on Ebay and it's burning a hole in my pocket.
Is that the one you are looking at?

Mike

The Omni he has recomended to me as well as others is looking better and better everytime I look at it and read the specs....Thanks Mike I think I'll be taking the plunge and order the second AB sooner than expected!

Thanks chris, i think i will!!!

Ron when your budget allows you might want to consider adding a gravity feed to the stable.....I'm planning on it and MikeV has several good recomendations in other threads...

yea that helps alot!!! Thanks!!!!

Actually it's called, "siphon-feed"

Both are good but as has been stated before on this forum, the gravity feed allows using a lower pressure to spray because the paint does not need to be siphoned up into the airbrush. The gravity feed models are also real easy to change colors and clean. One difference in the gravity feed though is that you must keep it pointing in a downward direction to paint or else the paint can spill out of the cup, unless you are using a gravity feed with a cap on the color cup.
I hope this helps.

Mike