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My first airbrush run

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  • Member since
    December 2008
My first airbrush run
Posted by thespaniard180 on Saturday, January 10, 2009 4:53 PM
So I ran my Paasche VL airbrush for the first time. Since I apparently took my regulator out of commission, I run my airbrush straight from the compressor.

It worked fine, but I can tell I would need an airtank or dual piston compressor to 100% remove the pulsations. For my task, the slight inconsistencies do not matter, so my compressor is good enough for me.

I need a regulator! Or if I don't get one, I'll need a very good ventilation system for my makeshift booth - I think I'll try to try to get both. If I could airbrush outside, I wouldn't need a regulator...except my airbrush would then be basically a spray can, sans volatile compounds.

Quick question: After my brief airbrush run, I ran some cleaner and filtered water through my airbrush until the water was clear. However, the nozzle/needle area of the airbrush still had tons of paint in it. Is this normal? I thought I remember hearing that people just run cleaner and/or water through their airbrush when just switching paints, but what about all this left over paint in the nozzle/needle area? I guess that paint is ok when switching paints, but not good when leaving the airbrush in storage?
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Saturday, January 10, 2009 5:36 PM

Get that paint out of there!

IIRC you're using acrylics. Windex with Ammonia (not that "green" stuff) gets acrylics out pronto and fairly cheaping. Windex is merely a brand name. I use ZEP with Ammonia which is about a third of the price.

Absolutely get the paint out of the siphon tube and off the needle, or you'll end up with a brick.

Use Q-tips to swab out the siphon tube, and after pulling the needle back (but necessarily out) swab out the nozzle end. You want to be absolutely sure to get ALL the paint.

Get good ventilation for your spray booth AND get a regulator. Even if you are using acrylics inhaling dried bits of plastic isn't not good for your lungs. I use a regulator even when I use rattle cans outside. 

A tank certainly helps with the pulsation. How long of a hose are you using? The longer the better. Paasche makes hoses in 10' and 25' lengths.

You can buy another air regulator at places like Harbor Freight or Wal-Mart for as little as $5. That's the kind I use. You'll probably have to figure out some adapters to fit it to the existing one.

So long folks!

  • Member since
    December 2008
Posted by thespaniard180 on Saturday, January 10, 2009 6:20 PM
I got the paint out of there, but I was just surprised as to HOW MUCH PAINT was still in the airbrush, despite the airbrush pushing out clear water, yet this is what is recommended when just switching colors.

Yes, I'm using acrylics and some type of window cleaner I got from my local hardware store. I made sure it had alcohol and ammonia in it.

The hose I'm using is a 5' one I think...it's the one that came with my Paasche VL. The coiled tubing that came with the compressor wasn't used, that I could probably reduce the pulsing once I get another regulator.

Do hardware stores have regulators? If I'm going to have to buy a regulator, I might as well as get a moisture trap as well, so then I might as well buy a regulator + moisture filter for $30. But then again, my regulator may not be broken...
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Saturday, January 10, 2009 7:29 PM

Siphon fed brushes hold a lot more paint in the siphon then you would expect. It why I always say gravity fed are easier to clean.

You've got the right cleaning stuff. Rinse with water as Ammonia can stain chrome black. If you have hard water (ever get white spots on stuff?) get some distilled water from the grocery store. A gallon shouldn't cost more then a couple of bucks. You don't want calcium buildup in your airbrush!

For sure you could cobble the two hoses together with a "male-to-male" coupling to lower the pulses.

Lowe's, Home Depot, any decent sized hardware store will stock regulators. They don't have to be expensive. I use a separate moisture trap and neither of them was expensive. Certainly both together weren't $20, even with all the extra bits I needed to screw them together. Combination ones don't have to cost as much as $30!

So long folks!

  • Member since
    December 2008
Posted by thespaniard180 on Saturday, January 10, 2009 7:43 PM
I use filtered water in my airbrush, so no hard water issues here.

Since I'm doing my painting during the winter, the air is already EXTREMELY dry. Maybe I'll be able to get by with just a regulator.

EDIT: Thanks for the links to the Harbor Freight regulator + moisture trap; I think I'll buy one of those. Oh, if I should choose to buy the moisture trap and regulator separately, should the regulator go before or after the moisture trap, with respect to their placement along the airline coming from the compressor?
  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by scrambler8 on Saturday, January 10, 2009 11:02 PM
When I'm done with an airbrush, I pull out the needle and nozzle and clean them completely. The AB's I use are gravity feed, but I'm still amazed at the amount of paint build-up on/in those parts. It really doesn't take that long and it makes sure that the brush won't hit you with any surprises the next time you use it. As stated, siphon tubes are even more prone to paint build-up.
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Saturday, January 10, 2009 11:21 PM

No worries.

The regulator is nothing more than a tap for the air and can go anywhere you want it to. The moisture trap should be as close to the airbrush as possible. Here's a pic of my setup (mind the messm it's a working spraybooth):

Having it inside the spraybooth makes it very handy to adjust the airflow.

As you can see my moisture trap is mounted to the regulator, and the airhose to the airbrush hooks up to the trap.  I've replaced the thin vinyl hose pictured with a braided line that came with an additional trap about 2' from my airbrush. Better safe than sorry!

 scrambler8 wrote:
When I'm done with an airbrush, I pull out the needle and nozzle and clean them completely. The AB's I use are gravity feed, but I'm still amazed at the amount of paint build-up on/in those parts. It really doesn't take that long and it makes sure that the brush won't hit you with any surprises the next time you use it. As stated, siphon tubes are even more prone to paint build-up.

Absolutely good advice! And I covered that recently in a recent thread about cleaning airbrushes.

Make sure you have as much of the paint cleaned out of the airbrush, since once the needle is pulled paint can flow back into the air valve and that is one of the worst things to happen to an airbrush! It helps to have needle lube (glycerin which is available at LHS or drug stores, you might have to ask for it in the drug store) and spread a bit on the front third. Careful!! They call them needles for obvious reasons!

So long folks!

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