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Just got a Badger 300

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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Thursday, February 19, 2009 10:02 AM

 AmateurModeler wrote:
Compressed air and to clarify, it is a Badger 350. Any ideas on where to keep pre mixed paint or do you generally just mix it in the funnel thing when needed then to change colors spray lacquer through the brush?

Never premix it and store it as the thinner will make it unstable. 

Just mix it and use it as needed. 

 

 

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    February 2009
Posted by AmateurModeler on Wednesday, February 18, 2009 3:07 PM
Compressed air and to clarify, it is a Badger 350. Any ideas on where to keep pre mixed paint or do you generally just mix it in the funnel thing when needed then to change colors spray lacquer through the brush?
On the bench... -Eduard F6F-5 (1/48) -AM's TBF Avenger (1/48) they haven't sent me the parts I ruined yet...still waiting.
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Wednesday, February 18, 2009 6:40 AM

Ok, I wasn't aware there was a 300. My first "real" airbrush was a 350, some time back in the late 70's, so it must pre-date that.Shock [:O]

PS: AmateurModeller, are you using a compressor or are you working with Propellant cans? If you are working with propellant cans, life will be somewhat more difficult due to the lack of precise pressure control. If you haven't got one, I'd suggest acquiring a compressor at your earliest convenience - it makes a huge difference.

  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: Windy city, US
Posted by keilau on Wednesday, February 18, 2009 6:15 AM
 Phil_H wrote:

Airbrushing or brush painting, yellow is one of the more difficult colours to use (along with white and red).

If it's running, it could be one (or a combination) of the following:

  • Painting too close to the surface
  • Too high a paint flow
  • Air pressure too high
  • Paint mixed too thinly

When airbrushing, there's no rule which says that you have to achieve full coverage first time every time. If your paint is going on translucent, it will require several light passes to build colour depth. Some colours, like the aforementioned yellow and red, will benefit from a white primer coat, particularly if the base colour of the styrene is dark.

It would also be helpful to establish what actual model of airbrush you have, because as far as I am aware, there's no "300". There is a "200" which is a single-action, internal-mix brush and a "350" which is a single-action external mix unit.

Phil, your advice is excellent. The AB could be an 200 and "300" is a typo. However, there WAS a Badger 300 airbrush. It is a single action, external mix type with a plastic body. You have to go way back to get hold of the Badger 300. The Badger 350 is similar, but much better constructed. It will be interesting to know how AmateurModeler got hold of the Badger 300. If the AB is the old 300, it could be the problem of the AB not atomizing well due to wear and tear.

 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Wednesday, February 18, 2009 4:31 AM

Airbrushing or brush painting, yellow is one of the more difficult colours to use (along with white and red).

If it's running, it could be one (or a combination) of the following:

  • Painting too close to the surface
  • Too high a paint flow
  • Air pressure too high
  • Paint mixed too thinly

When airbrushing, there's no rule which says that you have to achieve full coverage first time every time. If your paint is going on translucent, it will require several light passes to build colour depth. Some colours, like the aforementioned yellow and red, will benefit from a white primer coat, particularly if the base colour of the styrene is dark.

It would also be helpful to establish what actual model of airbrush you have, because as far as I am aware, there's no "300". There is a "200" which is a single-action, internal-mix brush and a "350" which is a single-action external mix unit.

 

  • Member since
    February 2009
Just got a Badger 300
Posted by AmateurModeler on Wednesday, February 18, 2009 3:49 AM
I was testing it out on the cowling of one of my models, yellow paint Testors paint the one that comes in the little bottle, it is enamel. Thinned it about 50-50. Basically my problem is that the paint doesn't go on nicely it starts to drip like it isn't sticking well. Just wondering if anyone had any tips for me whether it be layering my paint or what.

PS I don't think I will be using enamels any more because the cleanup is an absolute mess. Acrylics I hear wash off with water.

PS.PS. I just spent 45 minutes cleaning that piece of styrene off with a toothbrush. ALMOST ruined it. Still has a nice yellow tint to it rather than the dark gray. :-( Better that having a lost piece I guess.

Should I use a primer coat before airbrushing? Just a thought
On the bench... -Eduard F6F-5 (1/48) -AM's TBF Avenger (1/48) they haven't sent me the parts I ruined yet...still waiting.
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