Priming the small stuff

MikeV wrote:

Air Master Modeler wrote: I pretty much now paint everything with a primer coat because it helps the main colors adhere better to the model suface and makes the paint stand up better to masking tape so that the paint does not get pulled off when your peeling off any making tape. I used to have bad problems with painting and masking over an unprimed surface only to have any masking tape peel away the paint with it when removed. Primer coat before painting solved this. Have you ever tried roughing up the surface of the model with a Scotchbrite pad and then clean it with rubbing alcohol? I find that works very well with eliminating paint lifting from masking but it may not work with some acrylics. I use Tamiya and have had pretty good success. I normally don't prime either unless I am looking for flaws or trying to cover up something light which primer is good at doing.

Mike,

You are right about it not working with all acrylic model paints. Model Master Acryl are notorious for lifting with masking tape when painted over an unprimed surface. I have been using Polly Scale and its about the same thing as Model Master paints, but since priming before painting I have not had any problems. I have used Tamiya paints in the past but they are just to darn expensive here in Ohio and some places charge $4.99 for a 1oz. jar, so I went with Polly Scale and they have been working out just fine.

hi,

because i use alot of acrylics i'm having to prime everything as i've had problems with paints lifting after masking.

enamels arn't so fussy,but from now on i'll be priming everything no matter what paints i use.

also as mikev says,its good for covering colours and good for giving you an even flat colour base.

Air Master Modeler wrote:

I pretty much now paint everything with a primer coat because it helps the main colors adhere better to the model suface and makes the paint stand up better to masking tape so that the paint does not get pulled off when your peeling off any making tape. I used to have bad problems with painting and masking over an unprimed surface only to have any masking tape peel away the paint with it when removed. Primer coat before painting solved this.

Have you ever tried roughing up the surface of the model with a Scotchbrite pad and then clean it with rubbing alcohol? I find that works very well with eliminating paint lifting from masking but it may not work with some acrylics. I use Tamiya and have had pretty good success.

I normally don't prime either unless I am looking for flaws or trying to cover up something light which primer is good at doing.

I pretty much now paint everything with a primer coat because it helps the main colors adhere better to the model suface and makes the paint stand up better to masking tape so that the paint does not get pulled off when your peeling off any making tape. I used to have bad problems with painting and masking over an unprimed surface only to have any masking tape peel away the paint with it when removed. Primer coat before painting solved this.

 I, myself, have never primed anything! Never had any problems down the road.

Take it on a case by case basis.

If the small parts form a sub-assembly which is largely the same colour, then it's easier build the sub-assembly first and then prime/paint as a unit. Likewise, if it's a small part like a lifting hook which is to be glued to a tank hull, then it's preferable to attach it to the hull first and paint as a unit.

However, in some cases, access after assembly can be an issue and you may have no option but to paint certain parts before assembly.

One can prime or paint small parts while still on the sprue, but if the part requires any cleanup (eg. flash, ejector pin marks, sprue nubs, mould seams) it's going to need to be repainted/re-primed. 

Painting or priming parts before assembly can also have an impact on the overall integrity of your model, as model glues don't adhere well to paint. You have to remove paint from areas where model cement is to be applied.