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A couple questions about washes

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  • Member since
    November 2005
A couple questions about washes
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 4, 2003 3:07 PM
I'm about to attempt my first wash and i want to know a couple things so i do it right

1. The base colour of the model is (testors) olive drab, and i bought flat black for the wash, do i need a different colour?

2. I bought the mixing bottles and pipettes from model master, with bottles able to hold 14.7 mL, the guide i am following for weathering, says you need about 70-80% of turpentine essence (the guy at the hobby shop said that thinner was o.k. so i'm using a new bottle of plasmod thinner) and the rest, paint are these the right amounts and if so, how much of each goes in the pipettes?

3. I'm planning to put a coat of satin varnish after i'm finished the outside of the model, should i wait to do the wash or do it right now?

(not related) i am doing this to the academy M3 stuart honey and i'm wondering about if the entire part of the main gun was olive drab or just the internal part

and if anyone can offer any other advice it would help alot
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: United Kingdom / Belgium
Posted by djmodels1999 on Thursday, December 4, 2003 3:59 PM
1. Black will be fine but personally I think it's too stark, and I'd mix black with the base paint, plus thinner, to get the wash. You need a colour that is significantly darker than the base colour. I'd keep pure black for washes I'd put over engine grilles and stuff like that where you need the impression of depth.

1 & 2. If you're using oil-based (such as turpentine, white-spirit,..) paints for your wash, DO MAKE CERTAIN your base colour is real dry. Wait several days. If not the turp will lift the paint underneath! Horror! I use washes made with watercolours in tubes (artist's paints) mixed with water and vinegar and dish-washing liquid and that's the safest way I've ever found to apply a wash...
The proportion of paint/thinner is hard to define. Try 10% paint, 90% thinner first. If the effect is not strong enough, apply a stronger wash. Better be safe and start with something weak.

3. I do not varnish at all after washes/drybrushing/weathering because it will dull the effects I'm trying to achieve..! If you need varnish, for instance because you want to seal the decals or eliminate their shinyness, do it before applying the washes. But do let it dry before going on to the next phase...!
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Thursday, December 4, 2003 4:28 PM
Read this first .... http://www.swannysmodels.com/Weathering.html
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Manila, Philippines
Posted by shrikes on Friday, December 5, 2003 10:36 AM
Firstly, i would like to say that your page is full of great stuff, swanny!
I have some questions, though... I like your use of Tamyia Smoke for engine exhausts, but, how would i duplicate it without an airbrush? is there a way? (please let the answer be yes...) a really short bristled round brush, maybe?

Secondly, DJ said that you are to mix some of the base coat color into the wash... what happens when it's a camo pattern, or two-toned? Anyone? thanks guys. Smile [:)]
Blackadder: This plan's as cunning as a fox that used to be Professor of cunning at Oxford University but has now moved on and is working with the U.N at the high commission of cunning planning
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Sandusky Ohio, USA
Posted by Swanny on Friday, December 5, 2003 11:50 AM
I don't know how you could reproduce the effect of the X-19 without an airbrush. As an alternative get a womans makeup brush and apply chalks. Try one of those spongy looking brushes. For the wash I use black but also use browns sometimes. Try making the wash with some burnt sienna instead of black and see how you like that.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: United Kingdom / Belgium
Posted by djmodels1999 on Friday, December 5, 2003 1:07 PM
When I have several colour in the camouflage, my wash is made of a colour called Sepia. It's a very dark dirty brown that lend itself really well to washes.
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Littleton,CO
Posted by caine on Friday, December 5, 2003 1:34 PM
Based on advice I read in FSM, I go about my washes by first applying several coats of Future floor wax to make a clear gloss coat over the model. This has several advantages: first, you want to do that anyway to make decal application easier, second Future is an acrylic which does not react as easily to most paint thinners so your wash has less risk of damaging the underlying paint, and third it helps the wash flow into the cracks better.

As for the flat black, that probably depends on the colors you are washing over. I have used black on some modern navy jet models and it turned out great. But I use a gloss black beacuse it runs smoother and I always apply a clear flat coat over the top anyway to flatten the gloss from the Future coat.
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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 5, 2003 2:09 PM
the only exterior color i'll be washing over is testors olive drab (except for some white, the tools and 30 cals) but thats for the exterior but as for the interior: ( i dont know if the image will show up, if it doesnt there is mostly white, olive drab ammo cans or something, gold khaki and more white) also i am mostly interested in armor models so i just want to know if that future floor cleaner will work with tanks and iff the interior will have to be varnished
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 5, 2003 3:01 PM
Have you tried to use some filters to get the look you want?
sometimes all you need is a filter then a very very light wash to get that used and or fielded look.

the filter should be like 90-95% thinner and 10-5% colors, usually primary colors.
hope some of this helps
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 5, 2003 8:03 PM
i just did the wash and i'm a little concerned about something, when i put the paint onto the model (its the white interior of the tank) it went really dark, almost grey, i would put a picture but i dont know how, is it suposed to go that dark or do i need to repaint, i think it might have been because i had just added paint to the mixture and some was still on the brush, should i have put on a lighter wash and waited?
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