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  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Saturday, May 2, 2009 6:27 AM

 vector123 wrote:
im using a cheap pile of crud thats made by testors and i just cant get the paint to spray... im trying to find a good one.Sign - Dots [#dots]

I would suggest then that you try and find a good airbrush like an Omni 3000 or a Badger 100LG or something similar and practice, practice, practice.

 

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Canada
Posted by vector123 on Friday, May 1, 2009 6:06 PM
Thanks for your help and i sure will let you know how it went.  il even post pics once i get a new camera (mine is broken).
always looking for tips and suggestions!
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, May 1, 2009 6:02 PM
Those definately need to be thinned. I prefer using their own brand of thinner when working with Testors paints, both enamels and acrylics. Thin at a rough ratio of 2 parts paint to 1 part thinner or slightly more thinner. A basic rule of thumb is to thin to the consistancy of milk. make sure the paints are mixed thoroughly before. Do not pour and remaining thinned paint back in to the original jar of paint. Let us know how it goes after you have tried airbrushing with thinned paints.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Canada
Posted by vector123 on Friday, May 1, 2009 5:53 PM
im using model master and testors acrilc paints.
always looking for tips and suggestions!
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, May 1, 2009 5:49 PM
Yes, it most likely does. Unless the paint is specificly formulated for airbrush use only, it will probably need to be thinned. Otherwise it will be to thick to be drawn out by the air source passing over the nozzle. What type of paint are you using?

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Canada
Posted by vector123 on Friday, May 1, 2009 5:21 PM
it seems fine to me its blowing air but not paint maybe the paint needs a bit of thinner... hmmm.
always looking for tips and suggestions!
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, May 1, 2009 5:12 PM
What are you using for an air source? Those cans of compressed co2 that often come with airbrush starter sets are not the best source. Once you have a good air source, you may find your problems are reduced- then it comes down to mixing ratios of paint to thinner and other such pleasantries... I have been using the same inexpensive Badger 350 (paid about $30 in 1988) for over 20 years and have had great results with practice and patience.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Canada
Posted by vector123 on Friday, May 1, 2009 5:06 PM
No i dont have a hobby lobby in my area im in canada and the closest hobby shop i have is a pm hobby craft.  just cant seem to find a real good one. Boohoo [BH]
always looking for tips and suggestions!
  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Friday, May 1, 2009 5:02 PM
If you have a Hobby Lobby in your area, be sure to use their 40% off coupon to buy an airbrush there... I saved about 45.00 that way when I bought my Paasche...

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Canada
Posted by vector123 on Friday, May 1, 2009 4:24 PM
im using a cheap pile of crud thats made by testors and i just cant get the paint to spray... im trying to find a good one.Sign - Dots [#dots]
always looking for tips and suggestions!
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Friday, May 1, 2009 3:24 PM

 vector123 wrote:
sweet job but... i dont have a real good airbrush and im having troble with it. Banged Head [banghead]

What are you using my friend? 

With practice you can accomplish much more than you think. Wink [;)]

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Canada
Posted by vector123 on Friday, May 1, 2009 12:02 PM
sweet job but... i dont have a real good airbrush and im having troble with it. Banged Head [banghead]
always looking for tips and suggestions!
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Friday, May 1, 2009 11:43 AM
 ajlafleche wrote:

 vector123 wrote:
Thanks. iv been holding off on doing the camo because im kinda afraid i will mess up the model.Banged Head [banghead]

Nothing beats practice. Get a scrap model or even an old toy and practice, practice, practice. Take notes on what you're doing so you can replicate your results or avoid repeating errors.

If you're looking for a specific vehicle, learn to do research, and that does NOT mean looking at other people's models. It's accessing photographs and studying the patterns and style, hard or soft edges, etc. After archival photographs come the books based on those photographs from respected sources. Other people's models can be an inspiration but they are terrible references.

If you have an airbrush, learn to use it. Even the humble Paasche H, an under $50 AB can produce tight enough lines to vitually eliminate the need to mask.

Putties have emolients that can stain some paints and have enough adhessive strength to break off delicate parts.

I agree with Al. I have never used any silly putty or blu-tac masking, I just freehand the models as I like the look and the easier way of doing it (for me) of freehand. 

These are all freehand with an Omni 3000: 

I free handed the oil streaks on the side as well. Brave I know but fortunately it worked out. Wink [;)]

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Canada
Posted by vector123 on Tuesday, April 21, 2009 11:16 AM
ya i will post them in this forum well that is once i get a new camera the one i have right now is broken. Banged Head [banghead]
always looking for tips and suggestions!
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Colorado
Posted by psstoff995 on Tuesday, April 21, 2009 10:42 AM
Nice! You got any pictures yet? -and definitely Sign - Ditto [#ditto] on Shep Paine, by the sound of it, with the similarities in the campaign, you could do a few small sized dios to display your Battle of the Bulge tanks.

-Chris

US Army Infantryman

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Canada
Posted by vector123 on Monday, April 20, 2009 6:39 PM
yep thanks um i just painted 2 models so i guess i got past that. !
always looking for tips and suggestions!
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Monday, April 20, 2009 8:31 AM

 vector123 wrote:
Thanks. iv been holding off on doing the camo because im kinda afraid i will mess up the model.Banged Head [banghead]

Nothing beats practice. Get a scrap model or even an old toy and practice, practice, practice. Take notes on what you're doing so you can replicate your results or avoid repeating errors.

If you're looking for a specific vehicle, learn to do research, and that does NOT mean looking at other people's models. It's accessing photographs and studying the patterns and style, hard or soft edges, etc. After archival photographs come the books based on those photographs from respected sources. Other people's models can be an inspiration but they are terrible references.

If you have an airbrush, learn to use it. Even the humble Paasche H, an under $50 AB can produce tight enough lines to vitually eliminate the need to mask.

Putties have emolients that can stain some paints and have enough adhessive strength to break off delicate parts.

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Sunday, April 19, 2009 11:38 PM

 vector123 wrote:
Well im working on a few 1/35 scale tanks such as a tiger 1 and 2 and a sherman im looking to paint them so there sort of in the battle of the bulge time area and place. Im looking to use putty and to airbrush and freehand it. 

If Armor is your thing, I'd suggest buying a copy of Modeling Tanks and Military Vehicles by Shepard Paine.  Although there are a number of titles out there by a great many talented modelers, Shep's book is probably the best primer for the armor modeler.  The others all pretty much build off of the "foundation" Shep wrote.  It covers assembly, painting and weathering in concise, easy to understand photos & drawings, and covers the materials you'll need to be familiar with and the tools you want to have...

His other book, How to Build Dioramas, is the gold standard for the diorama builder, covering the models, scratchbuilding, weathering, figure-painting, structures and groundwork, and photographing models.  It's a must-have for any modeler library, as well as the above work, and both cover painting and masking and the materials & techniques used...

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Canada
Posted by vector123 on Sunday, April 19, 2009 12:37 PM
Thanks for your help im actuly going to the store right now so it realy helps!!!
always looking for tips and suggestions!
  • Member since
    May 2004
  • From: Land of Lakes
Posted by cbaltrin on Sunday, April 19, 2009 8:03 AM
I think you are look is call by several names/brands. The ones that come to mind are: Blue tack; Handy Tack; Poster Tack. They can be found is office supply section of Walmart, Target (Any Retail store should have them).

On the Bench: Too Much

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Sunday, April 19, 2009 2:33 AM

 vector123 wrote:
Iv been trying to get my hands on some putty but... what is putty exactly???

That depends on what you want to use it for. It's hard to get something when you don't know what it is, how it's used or why..

Commonly, "putty" is a broad term used to describe fillers for gaps and seams. If this is what you're after, you should be able to find these under a wide range of types and manufacturers at your local hobby store.

However, if you're looking for "putty" in relation to painting and masking, that's an entirely different animal. What you would be looking for is "silly putty" which is a pliable material of chewing gum consistency which can be used as a mask for painting. This can be found in toy stores, often in a little plastic egg shaped container (sometimes called "crazy putty"). Sometimes people use "blu-tac" (aka poster putty) as a substitute. /forums/1123199/ShowPost.aspx

 

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Canada
Posted by vector123 on Saturday, April 18, 2009 9:15 PM
Iv been trying to get my hands on some putty but... what is putty exactly???
always looking for tips and suggestions!
  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Canada
Posted by vector123 on Saturday, April 18, 2009 3:49 PM
Well im working on a few 1/35 scale tanks such as a tiger 1 and 2 and a sherman im looking to paint them so there sort of in the battle of the bulge time area and place. Im looking to use putty and to airbrush and freehand it. 
always looking for tips and suggestions!
  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Saturday, April 18, 2009 9:19 AM

 vector123 wrote:
Im looking for a good camoflage method if you have a good method please let me know. Smile [:)] 

Pretty vague, Vector... What do you mean by "method"?  Airbrushing vs. hand-brushing? Doing hard-edged vs soft-edged? Masked vs. free-hand? Putty masks vs paper/tape masks? Airbrushed AND hand-brushed? Aircraft or vehicles?   I do all of the above, depending on the type of model, scale, and patterns...

 

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Canada
Posted by vector123 on Friday, April 17, 2009 8:32 PM
Thanks. iv been holding off on doing the camo because im kinda afraid i will mess up the model.Banged Head [banghead]
always looking for tips and suggestions!
  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Friday, April 17, 2009 7:55 PM
I usually keep the kit instructions nearby as a guide and then just paint it on the model with the double-action airbrush.Cammo is my fave part of ther building process!  !      
  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Canada
Posted by vector123 on Friday, April 17, 2009 7:49 PM
thanks camo junkie it realy helps alot! Big Smile [:D]
always looking for tips and suggestions!
  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: clinton twp, michigan
Posted by camo junkie on Friday, April 17, 2009 6:07 PM
not really sure what your painting vector, but i usually will photo copy the pics of the 4 views of the tank, (top, front, rightside, leftside) etc, then draw a camo pattern that i like using colored pencils. one, it gives me a good idea what the basic colors will look like and two if i dont like it all i have to do is draw a new pattern. the only time i dont use this method is if it has an existing pattern i already like!
"An idea is only as good as the person who thought of it...and only as brilliant as the person who makes it!!"
  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Canada
camo
Posted by vector123 on Friday, April 17, 2009 5:29 PM
Im looking for a good camoflage method if you have a good method please let me know. Smile [:)] 
always looking for tips and suggestions!
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