Replacing my HP-CS with ???

My HP-CS does the same thing all the time. I put lube on the trigger and it's good for a bit.

I know I've had lacquer thinners wash through the entire brush. I wondered if that could have caused the seal to swell? It feels like it's sticking in the o-ring.

CNicoll wrote:

Thanks for the reference Mike, I'll give him call.  Love to get this finally resolved!!

Cool! Dave is one of the most knowledgable airbrush people in the country.....seriously! 

He may be young but he knows his stuff and is on a personal friend basis with most of the biggest names in the business. If he can't help you nobody can.

Tell him Mike Van Buskirk says hi.

Ok everybody, you've spurred me into giving it another shot!  (just kidding)

I downloaded the exploded view drawings from one of the airbrush websites, I'm digging out my cleaning brushes and am going to give it another go.  Will let you know how it goes.  Will take me  few days to get it all together.

Thanks for the gentle pushes, hopefully I'll get it cleaned this time!

Cheers, 

Chris

Unless you've been shooting corrosives through this thing you shouldn't ever really wear one out. Your air trouble probably can be fixed with replacement of rings/seals. I REALLY abuse mine and it hasn't failed me yet. Yeah when it gets paint backed up into the trigger assembly is does get hard to control the airflow. But after a good cleaning and boring with the appropriate brushes it works like new.

The "seat" that is in the air side of the body might have some residue on it.  The valve has a soft rubber like material at the base to contour to the inlet, so if the seat was worn some the material should still seat onto the surface and stop the airflow. My guess is it is the valve itself that is giving you the trouble. You'll need to replace the rings/seals or the whole assembly.

Fix it. If you don't want to keep it, sell it to someone looking for parts. An airbrush should last a lifetime. Kinda like do I fix the cars fuel pump or trade it off for a new one. One is more economical than the other.

OK, why do you think it needs replacing?

A new tip and needle should make it as good as new. It may need a new needle bearing as well.

Contact Dave Monnig at Coast Airbrush in Anaheim, CA and explain what is happening to him.

Dave knows airbrushes believe me!

http://www.coastairbrush.com/categorypage.html

  Not a problem ;anyone who wants to try and save me $100 I'm happy to listen to!

I'm sorry Chris, I think I hijacked your thread without meaning to.

Hopefully you'll get some responses to your original question.

Don 

CNicoll wrote:

Hi Don, No matter how I clean it, or have others clean it, the trigger sticks and the airflow on and off is sluggish.  I release the trigger and it takes about 1/2 a second for the air to stop. The local dealer who cleaned it says the 'seat' and other parts are worn and is causing the sticking.  Does not make sense to me, but nobody seems to have the answer.  If you have any ideas, I'm all ears! Thanks, Chris

Chris,

I don't know how handy you are with taking it apart, but if you're going to trash it you've got nothing to lose.  I don't have one, so I can't give you any advice.  Anyway, Coast Airbrush would sell you all the parts in the trigger assembly for $36, including the trigger.  I can't imagine they would all be bad.  Coast really knows Iwatas, and if you e-mailed or called them they might be able to help.

I don't mean to try to talk you out of a new airbrush.  Heck, get one anyway.  It doesn't hurt to have a backup.

Don 

Sounds like you let paint back up into the airbrush and it got into the air valve assembly.

My advice? Disassemble the entire airbrush, let it soak in lacquer thinner overnight or put it into a ultrasonic cleaner and get all the paint out of areas they should not be in. 

Regdab or Medea Superlube on the air valve ( sparingly ) will fix ya right up.  HTH.

E

Hi Don,

No matter how I clean it, or have others clean it, the trigger sticks and the airflow on and off is sluggish.  I release the trigger and it takes about 1/2 a second for the air to stop. The local dealer who cleaned it says the 'seat' and other parts are worn and is causing the sticking.  Does not make sense to me, but nobody seems to have the answer.  If you have any ideas, I'm all ears!

Thanks, Chris

I can't help wondering what would make the HP-CS not worth repairing.  Is the main body worn, or is it a combination of other parts?  Could you elaborate please?

Thanks,

Don