How to paint light dust or mud?

One way I do it...

I'll thin down some acrylics of the appropriate color with alcohol, crank up the psi and spray...the paint crystalizes as it leaves the airbrush and adheres like dust. If it is too much I use a finger or papertowel to wipe away. Once satisfied I go back with a clear sealer to lock it down.

thanks hans for that info...i may just use this on my iraq dio. as far as hood dust...LOL...that stuff got on and into EVERYTHING!!!!! i dont know what it comprised of but not only would it get on everything it would stick like glue...like u said...like it was "painted on"!!!

You'll get your wish my friend... I'll do just that.  I'm ready to start "mudding" on a couple vehicles right now...

Here's the start point of a Panzer IV:

I've started using a worn-out 1/4" flat brush that I trimmed down to about 1/4" in bristle-length.  I dip the brush in the sheetrock mud and apply it to the sides of the hull and undersides of the fenders with a stippling/stabbing motion, and keep stabbing it all around... Very similar to texturing sheetrock, lol..

Moving onto the underside. I applied a bit of mud with my finger.

Then I touch and lift my finger repeatedly to texture the mud..

I let that dry, then add more, repeating the process until I get the effect and thickness I want.. Then it's paint the mud with a good "mud color" (I use tempera paint for this) that I mix up, keeping in mind that it has to match the local terrain color.  For instance, if I was doing the Vietnam Central Highlands or even Ft Benning or Ft Sill, I'd be using a color that's visibly reddish brown to simulate those area's red clay... Once that's done. then drybrush with a lighter shade for dry mud... If the mud is still wet, a use a clear satin finish over it to give it some "moisture".  I think gloss is TOO wet-looking, personally..

Here's the stuff on my Luchs:

Hope this gives you some ideas..

For dust, an airbrush works well for nice even, recent coat, but that's about it.. Dust accumulates in the lower areas, in the craks and crevasses, and against ridges and in corners.. It also gets on things in heavier concentrations towards the rear of armored vehicles, and is heavy at the bottom, then get proggressively lighter as you go higher on the vehicle.  It doesn't stay on areas that get exposed to the wind while moving generally, but in some instances, it gets EVERYWHERE... Like in the desert, the dust is a real choker, billowing up in clouds that can seen from miles away, especially if a column is generating it.. The same holds true for the dust on tank trails on stateside posts.. Ft Hood, for example.. The dirt on the tank trails there in the summer gets ground to the conistancy of flour and is about an inch or two deep... Somedays, it looked like our tracks were painted tan and you didn't know they were green until it rained, lol..

But overall, the best way, in my opinion, is to use pastels for dust, since it's dust.. Tap it onto the model from a wide soft brush, then move it around into the corners, low spots, and such..

 

Hans, never thought of doing it with sheet rock mud.  I'd love to see a WIP on that technique next time you do mud on a build!

Chris

WWII Ziggy wrote:

How do you paint light dust or mud on feet and fender wells ?

I don't paint mud on.. I use putty or sometimes real mud...

Dusty boots are easy enough with pastels, or even drybrushing.. Just make sure the color matches your "ground" or is even slightly lighter in color.  Many modelers forget this important step when placing the figures and vehicles onto a base.  You need to carry your ground-color up onto the lower parts to tie them into the scene..  I do muddy boots with putty too.. I put a little on my finger, then touch it to the boots around the edges and toes..

For dust, I use a heavily-thinned dust-color, usually a tan, and airbrush it onto the areas that dust would collect on.. More heavily to the rear and lower... BUT!  Unless your paint job calls for an even, uniform coat of dust though, I'd forego the airbrush and use pastels to get it into the cracks, crevices, and corners... It doesn't stay on a tank or such, it blows off and back into those areas...

In fender wells, I do the same technique as for the boots.. Put some putty, sheetrock mud (my prefered "mud" for armor), or the like onto a finger, then touch the part, pulling your finger away over and over until you get it covered... When you're done, it should like the mud found under your car's fenders... Then paint it after it's dry..

I am a newbie, but for dust I like using a raw umber wash, mostly thinner of the type that wont destroy your base coat.  It imparts a nice dirty dusty finish.

Lots of guys use pigments, pastels, basically dry powder, like crushed chalk, in various colors, but I can't yet get it to look right.