What do you prime the model with for acrylic paint?

Triarius wrote:

I see absolutely no reason to prime with an enamel under an acrylic, because there isn't one. The reasons to prime: find surface defects. fix minor surface defects (Mr. Surfacer, etc.) prepare the surface for a low hide color like white, yellow, orange, or red.

Notice Ross, the question is what do you prime with?, not do I need to prime? Then,   you begin by saying there's no reason to prime and then give  three .       (all 3 are great reasons to use primer, under acrylic, or any other paint.

~DO I have to use primer ? is a whole nuther thread that already happened here. Where's  Camo Junkie to say you dont' have to??    Of course you don't have to. It's your hobby, you don't have to do things by the book----but it's highly recommended by the most acomplished modelers that you usually do use some kind of primer, Especially on a multi-media model made up of numerous colors and textures of styrenes, resins, metal,(maybe wood,plaster,paper, and different putties.....ect).....You're likely  gunna wanna unify all that before painting with like Hawkeye said, at least a light coat.  I guess it might depend on what you're building somewhat too.

When I just have to prime I simply use a light misting of flat white or any other light color. Just apply enough (not total coverage) to give the paint being applied something to grab on to. If the model is put together using tons of putty that is a dark contrast in color to the plastic and I am applying a light  color, then I will prime with complete coverage to get a consistant color base to work over.

I don't prime too often. I sometimes base coat with an aluminum color such as Tamiya AS-12 or the like for weathering purposes. If I do prime its with Gunz Mr. Surfacer 500 or 1000 from the spray cans.

I see absolutely no reason to prime with an enamel under an acrylic, because there isn't one.

The reasons to prime:

1. find surface defects.
2. fix minor surface defects (Mr. Surfacer, etc.)
   
3. prepare the surface for a low hide color like white, yellow, orange, or red.

On a properly clean surface, a good quality acrylic, fully cured, has as good adhesion as any enamel.

When I prime, I use Tamiya or Polly Scale ACRYLIC PAINT.

Adhesion problems? NONE.

Why? Because I insure that the surface to be painted is clean, and I make sure that the acrylic paint is thoroughly cured before masking or overcoating. 

The best primer for models I've tried is Tamiya Fine Surface Primer. Comes in white or grey. The Floquil Metal Figure Primer is quite a good basecoat and obscures no detail on all but the tiniest builds, and comes in black as well as grey, which is a handy choice. For the tiny, most detailed build I would recommend the airbrush by all means, and  have had great luck with the Floquil enamel Primer #F110009 thinned with white spirit. Any of these provides an ideal surface for acrylics as well as any other sort of hobby paint. Cheap auto primer rattlecans can work if used very carefully, but are a bit hit and miss when spraying into highly detailed areas, trying to get even coverage without filling in any places with paint build-up isn't too likely. On less detailed parts like hull-sides, they can work fine, but the Tamiya is worth every penny of the $9

I use Model Master Neutral Gray for my primer from the 1/2 oz bottle thinned 1:1 with Lacquer thinner.  If I was doing a natural metal finish I would use either Aluminum or a chrome silver primer in order to better show imperfections. 

    I use either Krylon flat white (large rattlecan at Lowes for cheap), or Model Master gray primer in the rattlecan.  Both have worked well for me.

 

  Chris