Plasti-Kote, (not Krylon) primer problem?

Which Krylon primer was it? There are some specifically formulated for plastics, others are made for metal. If you got a lacquer based one...you might have a gooey mess on your hands for a while. It might be too hot for plastic models...see it happen before.

 

Hmm interisting. I use red oxide automotive primers and grey ones for models without any problems or issues. Long as there is a referance to being plastic compadible. The green is the primer and base coat, the plane fell dureing the mist coat so the final coat had to be wet sanded after 24 hour cure.

Here is a red oxide primer that worked well for resin figures.

Shows how strong a beand Krylon is then, I have been using Plast-Kote paint - not Krylon.I guess I have made a right hash of this one then, I dont know what the stuff is made from, but the manufacturers web site says it all;

"Not for use on high impact styrene, leather, Styrofoam and vinyl".

I have since given it a coat of Tamiya acrylic gloss black in prep for Alclad, but it could be smoother. I was thinking a going over with 1000 grit may help to smooth it off, or would I be better giving it 100 grit then another coat of black (a smooth one this time)?

Thanks for your input folks.

Try starting with 600 grit wet sand paper then work with the finer stuff. 1000 grit + is more of a last polish before wax than a paint remover. When I use rattle cans I always spray the back of my painting glove first, if anything but a fine mist comes out or any lumps / clumps I reconsider applying yo my model or try another can. Some paint colors or perticular cans just don't want to behave, best to try a different brand. Example is Tamiya yellows. Im heading to the store for Krylon yellow instead. (over flat white base coat of course)

Don't know about the slow drying- never had that problem with Krylon primer.  However, Krylon primer has a LOT of filler in it, and drys (ordinarily) very fast.  The result is that it IS rough.  You need to sand it always, with fine wet or dry paper, like about #600 or so.  That to me is the only downside to Krylon primer when using it on surfaces with a lot of detail.

Don, which Krylon are you using? 

I have a 3x6" styrene sheet that I use to pratice painting- hand and air brushing. I primed one side of it with Krylon  Indoor-Outdoor for metal, wood, wiker, paper (no mention of plastic). Both sides of it were covered with various acrylic paints. I decided to clean it off. I soaked it over night in brake fluid. All the paint came off both sides, but it had no effect on the primer. It seems to work as a primer for acrylics anyway!

Milairjunkie

Shows how strong a beand Krylon is then, I have been using Plast-Kote paint - not Krylon.I guess I have made a right hash of this one then, I dont know what the stuff is made from, but the manufacturers web site says it all;

"Not for use on high impact styrene, leather, Styrofoam and vinyl".

I have since given it a coat of Tamiya acrylic gloss black in prep for Alclad, but it could be smoother. I was thinking a going over with 1000 grit may help to smooth it off, or would I be better giving it 100 grit then another coat of black (a smooth one this time)?

Thanks for your input folks.

OK, let me set a few things straight.  I always use plastikote on all my projects when it's available locally. The only reason they tell you not to use on these materials on the website is because, if you use too much - it'll melt, or eat the plastic.  Plastikote is lacquer based.  When I don't use Plastikote, I use Duplicolor brand in black. The Plastikote gray is what I use for everything that isn't Star Wars model related, as they always used black primer to see what all has been covered, whereas gray is light, and hard to tell when it's full coat coverage is achieved. The black Plastikote is what I've always used as this is also what ILM used back in the day. I've never had a problem with their products - ever! The Duplicolor is the one that my friend had trouble as it stayed tacky for three days. This was because it was humid outside. 

If you're spraying in cold conditions, it'll be more humid than in summer. The cold affects paint of all kinds regardless of what you're spraying it on. If you have a heater, it's best to spray this inside a paint booth, or a garage. You can make a cheap spray booth from 2 x 4's and clear plastic sheeting (mylar).  Just make it 4' x 4'  = 120 CMs' around the perimeter, and 6' 180 CMs'  tall. Basically, this is an open retangular frame held together with drywall screws  with a 2 x 4 across the top to mount  your project. Cover it with the clear plastic sheet.  Place the heater in long enough to warm it up to room temperature, then spray it. This should help elminate the problem with the cold, and it can be taken apart when not in use.