infinity

it's all good, but this is reflected in the price.

The infinity has been under discussion in the "painting & airbrushing " section under the thread "Airbrushes";

/forums/t/125701.aspx?PageIndex=1

I am sure it is a fantastic airbrush as are many others.

Why would you want to but it over a Badger or any other is my question?

MikeV, I appreciate that the question wasn't directed at me, but other than country of origin, why not?

If I lived in Europe,  I'd get the Infinity.  Price is lower without the duties.  More Vendords carry parts.

If the price is better where this person is at then go with what is best available.

Its $204 from chicago airbrush which is like 50 bucks off.

I'm trying to find the love on an airbrush that is over $200!

An HP-CS is $120 or a Badger Renegade Velocity is $93. Even the H&S Evolution Solo is only $123, but it's your money. I just can't justify spending that much money for spritzing paint on plastic!

Bgrigg

I'm trying to find the love on an airbrush that is over $200!

An HP-CS is $120 or a Badger Renegade Velocity is $93. Even the H&S Evolution Solo is only $123, but it's your money. I just can't justify spending that much money for spritzing paint on plastic!

You are right that the Iwata HP-CS and the H&S Evolution are almost the same price. But I am wary about the Solo's 0.2 mm nozzle based on my 0.35 CS nozzle experience. I feel that the 0.35-0.4 mm will work about right for me. I have not find a Solo with 0.4 mm nozzle yet. I will buy one when I do.

As for the $200 price tag, even for $200 vs. $120 is a small amount. How many models you can buy for the $80 saving? It is nothing if I get an airbrush that I enjoy more. Best yet, I should be able to find a buyer for either the Solo or the CS in no time. Or I may decide to keep both.

Well, if you think $80 is a small amount of money, you're richer than I am! I build mostly car models and they run me about $16 including tax, so that's 5 kits. Or 3 kits and about 10 jars of paint. A fairly significant amount. Now if I was into armor that would be another story, as it would get me 1 older kit or 3/4 a new DML.

Bgrigg

Well, if you think $80 is a small amount of money, you're richer than I am!

Not really!!

I build mostly car models and they run me about $16 including tax, so that's 5 kits. Or 3 kits and about 10 jars of paint. A fairly significant amount. Now if I was into armor that would be another story, as it would get me 1 older kit or 3/4 a new DML.

Anyway, an airbrush may last me 20 years. How long does it take to build the 5 kits?

The $80 on airbrush is well spent IF you can tell the difference of the airbrushes. If not, keep them for more kits. After I purchased the Patriot, it helped me to realize why I like the handling of the Iwata HP-CS better and others may feel the opposite.

Yes, I admit that the nice looking finish of a well made airbrush attracts me even if they spray the same. It is not logical, but it is my hobby.

keilau

 

Anyway, an airbrush may last me 20 years. How long does it take to build the 5 kits?

The $80 on airbrush is well spent IF you can tell the difference of the airbrushes. If not, keep them for more kits. After I purchased the Patriot, it helped me to realize why I like the handling of the Iwata HP-CS better and others may feel the opposite.

Yes, I admit that the nice looking finish of a well made airbrush attracts me even if they spray the same. It is not logical, but it is my hobby.

Well, at my current build speed, about 20 years!

Everything I've heard about H&S leads me to believe that the $205 Infinity is a wonderful airbrush, but nothing has convinced me that it's any better than the $123 Evolution. And if I can get an airbrush that is almost as good for $49 less ($75 Badger 105 Patriot through Dixie Art, strange that Chicago Airbrush doesn't list it?) I'm going to go that way. I'm part crow (likes shiny things) like most people, but I'm mostly Scots, and we're famous for our, uh, thrrrrrrrrriffft. And all three of those airbrushes last the same 20+ years.

Milairjunkie

MikeV, I appreciate that the question wasn't directed at me, but other than country of origin, why not?

You are not supposed to answer a question with a question.

The man asked how the airbrush is so he obviously wants some input and I gave mine.

I agree with what Bill said. That is way overpriced but hey it's your money and if you want to spend that much go for it!

The reason I asked why is because people think that airbrush A sounds great and will make their paint jobs look even better than airbrush B which for the most part is absolutely false.

MikeV - No offence intended, just curious.

Milairjunkie

MikeV - No offence intended, just curious.

No offense taken my friend. Like I said, I was just curious as to why this person asked about this particular airbrush. If you are in the U.S. then I say buy a U.S. made airbrush and help out the U.S. economy as it is getting real tough to be able to buy products made here anymore. If you like an airbrush made in another country and you are dead set on buying it then best of luck to you. I still say that nobody builds a better airbrush than Badger but that is just my opinion from many years of airbrushing and modeling.

I want to buy so I can do fine work like preshading and freehand camo because my airbrush(Iwata revolution) sucks at fine work .5mm. Plus the #@%* thing keeps breaking.

A10wrthg

I want to buy so I can do fine work like preshading and freehand camo because my airbrush(Iwata revolution) sucks at fine work .5mm. Plus the #@%* thing keeps breaking.

You've got my curiosity up.  What breaks?

How fine do you want to go?  If you look at the Patriot page on my website, you can see how fine it does with a 0.5mm tip.  I would expect the Revolution to do as well.

Don

the nozzle keeps breaking its broken 4 times i think only 2 of which were me because once i droped it and the other time was my first time removing it and i overtightened it so it broke the other two were not my fault. i want to go really fine like doing preshading in the cockpit. plus i think its broken again because the needle goes to far forward. i did not push it hard i only lightly tap.

I never realized that Iwata nozzles were so delicate!

What makes you think the H&S will be any less delicate, when the needle and nozzle is less than half the size of your Iwata?

A10wrthg

the nozzle keeps breaking its broken 4 times i think only 2 of which were me because once i droped it and the other time was my first time removing it and i overtightened it so it broke the other two were not my fault. i want to go really fine like doing preshading in the cockpit. plus i think its broken again because the needle goes to far forward. i did not push it hard i only lightly tap.

You might want to read this thread on the Renegade Velocity.  It will do some pretty fine lines, and the tiny tip is free floating so there are no tiny threads to strip.  And, replacement parts are cheap.

Don

Don Wheeler

 

A10wrthg:

 

the nozzle keeps breaking its broken 4 times i think only 2 of which were me because once i droped it and the other time was my first time removing it and i overtightened it so it broke the other two were not my fault. i want to go really fine like doing preshading in the cockpit. plus i think its broken again because the needle goes to far forward. i did not push it hard i only lightly tap.

 

 

You might want to read this thread on the Renegade Velocity.  It will do some pretty fine lines, and the tiny tip is free floating so there are no tiny threads to strip.  And, replacement parts are cheap.

Don

I agree with Don. A Velocity or even a Patriot should have absolutely no problems pre-shading panel lines and as Don said the replacement parts are inexpensive.

Bgrigg

What makes you think the H&S will be any less delicate, when the needle and nozzle is less than half the size of your Iwata?

Granted the H&S 0.15mm needle is a slightly delicate, I managed to bend mine putting it into the brush from the rear (stupid move), but the matching nozzle has been fitted, used, cleaned & refitted umpteen times without any issues. The 0.2mm set has never presented any problems.

My point is that he has somehow managed to damage 4 tips on his Iwata Revolution, and is now considering buying a $200+ H&S Infinity, with the attendant increase in parts replacement cost.

New nozzle for (prices do not include S&H):

• H&S Infinity $16.51 - $17.90 (depending on size)
• Iwata Revolution $11.40
• Badger 105 Patriot $4.27
• Badger Renegade Velocity $7.50

New needle (prices do not include S&H):

• H&S Infinity $11.09-$11.38 (depending on size)
• Iwata Revolution $8.07 - $8.55 (depending on size)
• Badger 105 Patriot $4.99
• Badger Renegade Velocity $11.00

Granted, the price difference in the parts isn't a whole lot, but the Patriot is almost 1/3 the cost of the Infinity, while the Velocity is less than 1/2. Given the prices that Badger sells for in the UK, H&S makes a bit more sense (Velocity £153.24 vs. H&S Infinity £147.99, source www.everythingairbrush.com). The inverse is true in North America. It's interesting that H&S is about the same price in both countries, while the Badgers are hugely more expensive than the currency exchange accounts for! And we don't get stuffed with a 17.5% VAT!

As I have said before, it's his money to spend, not mine. I'm positive that the H&S Infinity is a great airbrush, but it's out of my price range. If I wanted to do hairlines, I'd buy the Renegade Velocity.

As Mike said the other day when I quoted a Patriot versus a Velocity, you can't reasonably make an apples to apples comparison between a Revolution and an Evolution ( or an Infinity) . Being once again subjective, I never felt such thrill as when I first opened an Evolution case, even with a Sotar or a Micron. This said, it did not change my abilities (or unabilities) to spray paint, but I think I found "my" airbrush (considering Infinity would be an ... evolution of Evolution).

A10wrthg

the nozzle keeps breaking its broken 4 times i think only 2 of which were me because once i droped it and the other time was my first time removing it and i overtightened it so it broke the other two were not my fault. i want to go really fine like doing preshading in the cockpit. plus i think its broken again because the needle goes to far forward. i did not push it hard i only lightly tap.

This is exactly why I tell people not to take apart their airbrush after every use because the potential for damage exists as you have seen. I don't think the Iwata tips and needles are that soft that they are being damaged, I think you are just not being delicate enough with it when you assemble it. Put your aircap and tip in the gun lightly tighten the head, loosen the needle chuck and slowly push the needle forward until it stops. Then hold slight pressure on the back of the needle with your finger while you tighten the needle chuck with the other hand. You should not be experiencing what you are as far as damage goes.

A10wrthg

the nozzle keeps breaking its broken 4 times i think only 2 of which were me because once i droped it and the other time was my first time removing it and i overtightened it so it broke the other two were not my fault. i want to go really fine like doing preshading in the cockpit. plus i think its broken again because the needle goes to far forward. i did not push it hard i only lightly tap.

A10wrthg, do you know that your Iwata Revolution airbrush comes with a 5-years warranty? Did you send the airbrush with the broken nozzle back to Iwata-Medea for under warranty repair? More importantly, find out why the nozzle broke. I don't know how you tap the needle. But it is a real puzzle that you can break the steel nozzle by tapping the needle. Let us know what Iwata says about your problem.

The Revolution is Iwata's bottom line airbrush, but it is not cheaply made. It still get a steel alloy nozzle with a micro tip, screw-on design:

Each nozzle is precisely made on the industry’s most sophisticated machinery. They are hand tested to assure accurate control and fine atomization of the spray, and they are self-sealing, which eliminates the need for messy sealers. Unlike conventional brass nozzles, steel alloys are more durable and resist damage from harsh chemicals.

High-Performance Assembly

Acually the HS nozzle is larger in general size

http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/1noforincogr.html

http://www.ratomodeling.com/reviews/furioew770/Furio25_007.jpg

MikeV

 

A10wrthg:

 

the nozzle keeps breaking its broken 4 times i think only 2 of which were me because once i droped it and the other time was my first time removing it and i overtightened it so it broke the other two were not my fault. i want to go really fine like doing preshading in the cockpit. plus i think its broken again because the needle goes to far forward. i did not push it hard i only lightly tap.

 

 

This is exactly why I tell people not to take apart their airbrush after every use because the potential for damage exists as you have seen. I don't think the Iwata tips and needles are that soft that they are being damaged, I think you are just not being delicate enough with it when you assemble it. Put your aircap and tip in the gun lightly tighten the head, loosen the needle chuck and slowly push the needle forward until it stops. Then hold slight pressure on the back of the needle with your finger while you tighten the needle chuck with the other hand. You should not be experiencing what you are as far as damage goes.

 

I dont completely take it apart i only take out the needle and occasionaly the air cap.

Weird how the email notice I got of this post is readable, while the forum version is messed up!

Don't mistake physical size for strength, they don't always go hand in hand.

As I've said many times, you want to spend $200+ on an airbrush, knock yourself out. I just don't think you'll get the bang you are looking for. I hope, and I really mean this, that you are happy with your purchase, and I look forward to hearing your review, once you get it.

A10wrthg

Acually the HS nozzle is larger in general size

http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/1noforincogr.html

http://www.ratomodeling.com/reviews/furioew770/Furio25_007.jpg

 

A10wrthg, you are not making any sense to me anymore.

Don't know which airbrush is this that you linked. But it is not an Iwata Revolution HP-CR, which does not have the MAC (Micro Air Control) valve. The review author calls it a Sagyma model SW770. It is similar to a PowerCat 203 airbrush that I have down to the last details. It is a made in China knock-off of the Iwata HP-C Plus. As the reviewer, Rato Marczak, said, it is capable of pretty fine details and usually costs less than $50 shipped in the US. Anyone interested can see it at the link of Rato Marczak Modeling site from Brazil.

Do you have this knock-off airbrush or an Iwata Revolution HP-CR? Either way, I don't believe that you can break the nozzle by tapping on the needle.