What is the best flat finish (for either airbrush or aerosol)

Fred I've used Vallejo Matt from a rattle can and been really pleased with the results, it has a slight sheen which I like, seems to level out very nicely.

Cheers...

I've been using Polly Scale Flat for several years & still think it's the best.  However, I did learn to strain it before use.  Sometimes the unstrained paint has small particles of undisolved flat base that can leave a white cast.  Kinda academic at this time, as Testors is discontinuing Polly Scale.  I've been looking for a good replacement with mixed results.  I don't like the MM Acryl flat but have pretty good results with their Lacquer based flat.  Floquil Flat gives a more Satin finish & is also a lacquer.  I really prefer an Acrylic base, so the search goes on.

Regards,  Rick

Hey Mike, how slight of a sheen is slight?  Have any pics of a kit where you used it?  I generally prefer my flats to be dead flat.

Rick, how do you strian the paints - like through a coffee filter?  Maybe I need to do that, because my results have been fairly terrible.  And it's definitely not becuase it's under mixed.  I use an electric stirrer (and almost always for a miute or so) to make sure it's good and stirred.

But if you find an alternative, feel free to post it here as I'd love to find one.

Here's an example of the nasty white finish it left behind on a build of mine

I didn't care so much in this build because I was going after a severely sun-baked look, so this turned out to be a happy accident.  But it completely ruined a few other builds that I ended up having to strip down and repaint.

-Fred

Here you go,

My Me 262 over on Franks RD2 group build has been flat coated now.

Cheers...

I have some material from one of the wifes discarded panty hose.  i stretch it loosely over a bottle top & hold it place with a rubber band.  You want a pocket to pour into.  Slowly pour the mixed paint into the pocket & let it drain through.  Takes a few minutes.  You'll be amazed at how much white crud you see, even when you thought it was well stirred.

Regards,  Rick

Mike, that does turn out nice.  I may have to look into that.

Thanks, Rick.  As a single dude, I don't really have pantyhose just hangin' around the ol' man-cave.  Though now I may have to make a few awkward calls to the female members of the family LOL.

-Fred

Fred, you can buy PPG nylon mesh strainers from places that supply autobody paint, or online from places like TCP Global, or you can just try to keep a straight face while buying some panty hose at the local store.

Couple of things:

Testors will probably continue Polly Scale flat in their acrylic railroad line, which is not being discontinued.

Fred, I think you are applying the coating too heavily, too close, or with too much thinner. Polly Scale acrylics only require 10 to 15% dilution for the old formulation, up to 20% for the new formulation. You can check which one by reading the bottle.

All flats and satins should be strained before airbrushing, as the flat pigment is particularly susceptible to clumping (flocculation) over time. I  use a piece of 100 mesh screen  that I framed with the top portions of a film can. That's about as fine as you need. You  can also use a piece of nylon stocking. If you do the latter, be sure not to stretch it or the holes get too big.

IIRC, Small Parts sells brass and stainless mesh in appropriate sizes.

Thanks, Bill.  I guess as they don't ask me who they're for, I should be ok, LOL.  Maybe I should buy some profolactics at the same time, so they don't think I'm some kind of weirdo ;-)

See Ross - every time you chime in, I learn something new.  My guess would be too much thinner.  I've been thinning it at about the same ratios as my paint.

So, I'll get a strainer and use less thinner.  I guess we'll see how that works out.

-Fred

Gigatron

Thanks, Bill.  I guess as they don't ask me who they're for, I should be ok, LOL.  Maybe I should buy some profolactics at the same time, so they don't think I'm some kind of weirdo ;-)

You are over thinking it Fred. It's pantyhose and they could care less why you are buying them as some men buy those and worse things for their wives.

JW's right step, available at Michaels (and most art stores I suspect) is a water based acrylic top coat, it comes in satin, gloss, and yes, matte.  I use it exclusively now.  You can brush paint it on, or airbrush it.  When airbrushing, I mix it about 50-50 with distilled water, and mist it on from about 8-10 inches away.  It dries dead flat, no sheen at all, and I haven't seen a bit of color change or residue in any of my projects. 

One caution, the stuff settles alot, so stir REALLY well or the stuff on top is going to leave a semi-gloss look.  You can't shake it well, just stir with a stick or an electric paint stirrer.

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/store/item.aspx?dep=10&cat=40&subcat=65&IsOnSale=0&IsFeatured=0&IsNew=0&ItemId=110239

Chris

Hi Chris,  I read about using Cryla brand Soluble matt varnish from a good source after using Future first.,but you need mineral spirits to dilute it. (fumes!)  Someone else told me to use a laquer or enamel prroduct to give a matte finish (fumes again!).Do you feel that the product that you recommend gives you a VERY durable finish when applied over Future and (Vallejo) Acrylic paints?   Thanks  ---Mike

I have had great luck with MM lacquer flat thinned with lacquer thinner.

I'm going to drop a vote for GSI Creos (Gunze) Acrylic clear flat H-20. Absolutely dead flat.

I started using the right step product on 28mm gaming miniatures, which get handled all the time.  I think the durability is excellent.