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somenewguy After airbrushing Humbrol gloss thinned 50/50 with white spirit, I tried my hand at the dot filter technique with W&N oils and Tamiya enamel thinner after reading wbill76's article on the technique in the may 2008 issue.
After airbrushing Humbrol gloss thinned 50/50 with white spirit, I tried my hand at the dot filter technique with W&N oils and Tamiya enamel thinner after reading wbill76's article on the technique in the may 2008 issue.
There's your problem. Tamiya enamel thinner is, as near as I can tell, more or less the same as mineral spirits (aka white spirits in Australia) .
In Australia, look for Art Spectrum Odourless Solvent as a thinner for your washes. It has nil effect on Tamiya acrylics and although I haven't tried it on enamel finishes, it will not even mix with Testors ModelMaster enamels when wet, so I would presume that it should not affect them when dry.
Use Krylon if this is available in your neck of the woods, this is acrylic. However, you will want to be careful how much spirit you put into your airbrush as this can act like a thinner, or paint stripper. If it's too heavy this will cause the paint to run. This means that you need more binder,or base in your paint, and not as much thinner. Acrylic resists most spirits of turpentine, and minerals. It doesn't like alcohol. All you modelers using FUTURE remember - this is FLOOR WAX, and not really a clearcoat formulation intended to be used for models. This has a partial wax formulation and it will dissolve in certain chemical reactions! Krylon is made for paint applications, and it will therefore resist most, but not all household chemicals. It will be easier to guage its' reaction than FUTURE BRAND FLOOR POLISH. I can't tell you how many times I've seen people use this stuff,then wonder why the other chemicals, paint, decals, and other things make a huge mess not knowing this.
Maybe a picture of a squirrel playing a harmonica will make you feel better?
I have recently begun clear coating with JW's right step instead of future. The gloss version helps set decals and protects from washes beautifully. The matte is a great sealant topcoat. Both are water based acrylics that can be airbrushed or hand brushed. When airbrushing, I thin about 40% distilled water to 60% varnish.
Chris
A veteran is someone who, at one point in their life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including my life."
The best way to avoid the problem is to use oil washes only over acrylics & vice versa. When using oils, I always clear coat with Future, an acrylic. In your case, the enamel thinner used for the wash is also a thinner for the Humbrol gloss coat. Even when cured, the thinner used for the wash may attack the top coat, especially if you attempt to brush it.
Regards, Rick
Hi all
Half way through doing it on the front glacis plate on my panther, it became obvious that the thinner clad brush had eaten through the clear and began stripping the paint. The only things I can think of is that I didn't put enough thinner on the brush and, therefore, the friction became too much for the gloss. Or, tamiya thinner doesn't agree with Humbrol.
Can anybody help me diagnose this problem? Some proven matches between protective clear coat and dot filter paint/thinner would be awesome. Any help greatly appreciated.
Cheers!
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