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Single or Dual action AB for modeling 1/32 1/24 cars?

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  • Member since
    March 2010
Single or Dual action AB for modeling 1/32 1/24 cars?
Posted by Profoxcg on Monday, March 22, 2010 3:36 PM
Hello everyone, this my first of what I hope to be many posts sharing ideas and mostly learning from the most experienced modelers. I previously built some models and painted with rattle cans and I have gotten pretty OK over the many tries and years. I have yet to paint something that I am 100% proud of. I am currently playing with 1/32" slot cars and also I attend Architecture school. I plan to someday build a real 1:24 auto model or maybe even a helicopter that I am 100% proud of. I want to do things right this time, and I have decided to invest in an AB. I understand that Badger and Iwata are among the preferred brands, while Aztec (the brand I was originally looking at) is not?
 
For the things I want do, would it be best to purchase a single or dual action AB ? Currently some of the things I plan to spray are plastic auto bodies and wheels, along with other smalled trim pieces. Eventually I want to be able to use the AB to paint Architecture models.
 
Your help would be appreciated.
  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: Steilacoom, Washington
Posted by Killjoy on Monday, March 22, 2010 4:15 PM

If you are going to take the time, and spend the money on an airbrush and a compressor, I recommend getting a double action to start with.  Take the time to learn to use it, and you won't 'outgrow' your airbrush's function.  A single action, while good for base coating and for beginners, is not much better in most cases than a rattle can.  You have a bit more control, but that's it. 

Long winded answer, but the tool you will use long-term, and don't upgrade later.  Try a Badger 100LG with a medium needle and head.  I spray mainly thinned acrylics, but have shot enamels and many different top coats (varnishes) through mine.  I can spray from the width of a standard sharpie to a 1-1 1/2" pattern.

http://www.coastairbrush.com/proddetail.asp?prod=100%2DLG

Good luck!

Chris

A veteran is someone who, at one point in their life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including my life."

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Monday, March 22, 2010 4:22 PM

This is a question for which there is no correct answer!

My first answer for "which is the best AB" is a dual action, internal mix gravity feed ABs like the Badger 100LG or 105 Patriot, Iwata HP-CS or Paasche Talon or . I'm not familiar with the Aztec brand, other than hearing the trouble people have with them. This kind of AB gives the user the ability to spray fine lines or to load on the paint for solid coverage, though the smallish cup limits the length of time spraying. But that answer is better suited to people who paint intricate camouflage.

You might also want to consider a siphon feed AB like the dual action internal mix Badger 150 or 155 Anthem, Iwata HP-BCS or Paasche Millennium which are pretty much the same as the ones above, only with a large bottle that connects to the bottom of the AB. These ABs are still capable of painting camo, while also being able to put out larger volumes of paint.

Even an external mix single action siphon feed AB like the Badger 350 or Paasche H would do very well at the paint jobs you indicate. They do tend to limit your choices if you decide to paint more intricate schemes than solid coverage, but there are many here who still use them for intricate paint jobs, they just have to use more masks in order to do so.

I have single action siphon, dual action gravity and siphon and even an external action siphon AB, but I still use rattle cans for certain colors!

So long folks!

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Fullerton, Calif.
Posted by Don Wheeler on Monday, March 22, 2010 4:35 PM

If you look through past posts on this forum concerning airbrush selection, you'll find that there are many different opinions.  I'll give you mine.

First, don't even think about an airbrush until you've considered a regulated dry source of air.

To get a nice finish on a car body, you need to put on a fair amount of paint.  Stick with a medium size nozzle.  This is also a reason you might want to consider a siphon fed brush.

See if someplace near you carries airbrushes so you can handle one and see how it feels.  Some are fat and some are thin.  Trigger tension varies, but can usually be adjusted.  Consider parts availability.

From what I've read, the problem with Azteks is reliability.  Some people love them.

A dual action brush is more flexible.  You probably don't need it right now, but you might eventually.  It does take a bit more practice.  If you're willing to put in the effort, that's what I would suggest.

I like my Badger 155.  You can read about it and see a picture of a car model I painted with it on my website.

Good luck.  I hope you find something you enjoy using.

Don

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/home

A collection of airbrush tips and reviews

Also an Amazon E-book and paperback of tips.

  • Member since
    March 2010
Posted by Profoxcg on Saturday, March 27, 2010 8:02 PM

Well guys, I need to try an AB so I bought an inexpensive badger 250 kit. single action external mix for $20
I am sprayed some tamiya X17 (pink) on a piece of model I had laying around. I have also won an aztek set on e-bay for "cheap" it is dual action, so ill wait for that to try it also. Anyway here is what I made,

I did not prime it, I just began to build my coats very lightly. However maybe I did not realize it but is the X17 glossy? From looking at other little bottles of tamiya paint I have, I am assuming they are all glossy unless otherwise noted.

 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Saturday, March 27, 2010 8:37 PM

Profoxcg

I did not prime it, I just began to build my coats very lightly. However maybe I did not realize it but is the X17 glossy? From looking at other little bottles of tamiya paint I have, I am assuming they are all glossy unless otherwise noted.

 

All "X-" Tamiya colours are gloss, the exceptions being X-18 Semi-Gloss black and X-21 Flat Base. All "XF-" colours are flat.

 

  • Member since
    March 2010
Posted by Profoxcg on Saturday, March 27, 2010 8:47 PM

Thank you, 

Although not perfect, its it was very very easy to do with an AB. I highly recommend it

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Fullerton, Calif.
Posted by Don Wheeler on Saturday, March 27, 2010 9:09 PM

The 250 is about as basic as an airbrush gets.  In fact, the manual refers to it as a spray gun.  The spray will not be as fine or as even as an internal mix brush, or even an external mix that has a needle. So, what you did looks pretty good.

You might want to check out this thread for information on taking care of the Aztek.  Also, there are some good videos on its use here

Good luck with your new airbrush.

Don

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/home

A collection of airbrush tips and reviews

Also an Amazon E-book and paperback of tips.

  • Member since
    January 2010
Posted by Mako72 on Sunday, April 11, 2010 3:24 PM

I am also new to 1/25th scale drag racing slot cars and air brushing. After posting numerous questions and getting responses on this forum I decided to go with the Badger Patriot 105 dual action AB. I can report that I am very happy with the Patriot 105 and the dual action was not a great learning curve for me. I used automotive Duplicolor primer, House of Kolor automotive airbrush paint and Dupont Selectclear automotive clearcoat. The Badger laid all 3 on flawlessly and I was very happy with the results. Because of the chemicals used in slotcar dragracing ( lighterfluid, ATF trans fluid, tire glue and the beating the bodies endure), everyone I race with use automotive grade paints because they hold up the best. If I do this picture posting correctly, here's a pic of my car I just finished.

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