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thats interesting...i might have to try that....thanks..
.the question is what color should be underneath it to get the look of it being an actual light?
Aluminum foil shiny side out is the best way to simulate chrome. Cut with a punch + dye set for accurate circles and for those tiny landing lights it can be pushed in with out glue if cut slightly larger than the hole. Mix your clear Tamiya acrylic color with straight Future as they are both acrylic based. The Future has a tacky property that will hold in the aluminum disk, build this mix up in layers instead of using the kit's clear plastic discs.
You will have the coolest landing lights at the next contest!
Off-topic seems to happen around here from time to time!
On the bench: Airfix 1/72 Wildcat; Airfix 1/72 Vampire T11; Airfix 1/72 Fouga Magister
Everything from industrial coatings to consumer products. Industrial coatings tend to be very complex, often including both thermoplastics and non-thermoplastics, depending on the application. However, some are almost primitive in their simplicity.
As my sigfile on another forum says: Coatings are not only stranger than you imagine, they are stranger than I can imagine."
Boy, have we gotten off topic!
Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing…
Well it's safer that way, but then there are no stories to tell after work!
Industrial coatings & such I'm assuming? My father used to be a warehouse supervisor at a potash mine in NB, they dealt with DuPont for a lot of coatings, sealing compounds etc. I expect most of that was resin-based.
Never. I always wore gloves in the lab.
Triarius VanceCrozier: You have no idea how sticky!!! Actually, I do. One of the paints I helped develop was the best aerosol epoxy resin coating ever produced. Once cured, it was almost impossible to remove.
VanceCrozier: You have no idea how sticky!!!
You have no idea how sticky!!!
Actually, I do. One of the paints I helped develop was the best aerosol epoxy resin coating ever produced. Once cured, it was almost impossible to remove.
So how many times did you get the stuff on your fingers?
VanceCrozier You have no idea how sticky!!!
Triarius VanceCrozier: If it involves colours, I'm on it!! Sounds sticky……
VanceCrozier: If it involves colours, I'm on it!!
If it involves colours, I'm on it!!
Sounds sticky……
so silver it is....thanks for the advice....i will lay down the silver....then the proper clear///green/red what have you the cover for regular painting....unmask for the furure treatment and cover back up before any flat coat as to keep the future shine...same with the gun camera stuff....
sounds good to me....
VanceCrozier If it involves colours, I'm on it!!
That's how I do it!
Vance, you're pretty smart for a graphics designer!
So long folks!
I use ModelMaster Chrome Silver as the base coat.
Regards, Rick
Take a look at a headlight—the color behind the clear should be silver.
Hmmm, I have yet to use the Tamiya clear colours - I just don't do enough formation lights to warrant me picking them up I guess! I would suggest (feel free to correct me anyone) the best option would be: base coat of silver for reflection purposes; drop of Future to give you your "glass"; then a dab of the appropriate colour.
i picked up some Tamiya clear green/yellow/blue and red today for the formation lights under the wing and the wing tips on my F4U-1 corsair...the question is what color should be underneath it to get the look of it being an actual light?...and what about the clear landing light under the wing that fits into the wing...should it just be clear or should there be some color under there?...maybe silver?...i cant come up with a good color photo of it anywhere.....thanks in advance for any tips...
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VanceCrozier: