Beginner Airbrushes

I live in B'ham and use a company called 'simple2trade' who deal, amongst other things, with 'Spraymaster' airbrushes, (as do many other suppliers but these people have been very helpful, I find).  the one I bought was an ABR1008 which is currently on loan to a mate.  I don't believe you need to spend a fortune to get a thoroughly decent brush; if you are an artist doing the very finest work with inks, gauches etc perhaps you do.  hope this helps JD

I've been recommended this site: Black Horse

I have heard of Holbein airbrushes, but a google search did not show me any retailers of the y2 or y3.  Anyone have a link?

Chris

Dr. Coffee

Apart from that, I'd be interested to know why the people here, who own three or more airbrushes, own that many units. I can see the need for one large-capacity signle-action 'spray gun' for the large-volume work, like hulls of ships, and one double-action unit for the finer detailed work.

But why does one own an airbrush #3?

Of course, I am aiming this in the direction of pointing out the cost of buying two units that does almost the same thing, where the 2nd unit have some extra capacity in one direction or the other. Then I would compare this to buying one (more expensive) unit that does everything the two inexpensive units do.

DoC

In my case, the airbrush became a hobby by itself in addition to the modeling hobby.

I upgraded from a Paasche H to an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS and was very pleasantly surprised by how the Iwata enhanced my enjoyment of modeling.

I shortly bought 2 "knock-offs" to see how they work. They are cheap and ok, but not for the keep.

I bought a Badger Patriot to find out how so many forum member promoted it.

I bought a H&S Evolution because I am a sucker of good engineering design.

So I ended up with 6 airbrushes. Denstore's description of the different airbrushes echoes what I think too. The Iwata Eclipse is my go-to airbrush for general modeling works.

Dr. Coffee

I think H&S has been mentioned as a 'non-knock-off' brand...

Still, I think beginners ought to be aware about the trade-offs: You can save some $$$ at the risk of either getting a monday unit, or need to do some tweaks and mods to get the thing to work. Or you can shell out the extra $$$ once and for all and get something that works straight out of the box.

It's a question about priorities:

1. High-end brands/models are subjected to intense quality control. There is far less risk of getting monday units.
2. High-end brands/models tend to be properly adjusted from the factory.
3. High-end brands/models tend to be easier to handle.
4. High-end brands/models tend to be better supported in terms of spares, repairs etc.

If the user is willing to accept the associated risks to save some $$$, then that's their decison to make. The crux is that people know the trade-offs.

Apart from that, I'd be interested to know why the people here, who own three or more airbrushes, own that many units. I can see the need for one large-capacity signle-action 'spray gun' for the large-volume work, like hulls of ships, and one double-action unit for the finer detailed work.

But why does one own an airbrush #3?

Of course, I am aiming this in the direction of pointing out the cost of buying two units that does almost the same thing, where the 2nd unit have some extra capacity in one direction or the other. Then I would compare this to buying one (more expensive) unit that does everything the two inexpensive units do.

DoC

All you say is correct. Going with a known brand might be the safest way. No question about it. I suppose that is wise advice for a first time buyer, especially if he don´t have other users around him. But name is also a lot about marketing. The main reason why Iwata is as large brand as it is, is because of a strong marketing of their product. When advicing about beginners airbrushes, I try to keep away from brand-dropping. It´s usually  more important to find an airbrush that fits your hand and style of painting.

About owning more than one airbrush. First, I´m a bit of a collector. I like airbrushes, and I find pleassure in buying and testing airbrushes. It gives me as much relaxation and exitement as building models, or watching a good movie. Second, I have a small company that sells airbrushes. Started it only a couple of months ago, so it´s more of a aftereffect from being interested in airbrushes. Third, it can be very handy to have several airbrushes ready, for different uses. This is a reason that I usually recommend against falling for the marketing trick about "2 in 1", several nozzle combos, and so on. In my experience it´s better to have several designated airbrushes than one that you can transform. Partly, because it means that you have to rebuild it between colors, and maybe even more, that I think there always will be compromise when you try to build something that fits everyone.

At the moment I have a bit more than three. In alphabetic order:

Badger 200: Still a good airbrush, but there´s nothing it can do, that others can´t.

Efbe B1: Got this 2:nd hand a few months ago, and it´s a dream when it comes to quality. But it´s seem to need a few new parts, so I can´t really give a complete view of it.

Gunze/GSI PS-275 and 290: My first pistol trigger action airbrushes. Still use them someimes, and can still recommend them.

Grex Genesis XG and Tritium TG: The Tritium is great! Got one of these when I started selling the brand. Fabulous pistol trigger airbrush. The XG is my demo airbrush for the shop, and I´ve used it quite a lot in modelling lately. Good, solid airbrush, that cleans great, and has the best chrome I´ve seen.

Iwata HP-C, HP-CS: The Eclipse is probably one of the best alround airbrushes out there. Modellers can´t go wrong with one.

Olympos HP-100B, HP-100C, HP-102C, MP-200A, MP-200B and MP-200C. All of them are among my favorite airbrushes, but if I could only keep one airbrush in my inventory, it would be the MP-200C. This is the perfect Micron, in my opinion. Best airbrush I´ve ever owned.

Rich AB-100, AB-200 and AB-300: These are among my oldest airbrushes. Got the AB-200 more than 20 years ago. Still a great airbrush. The AB-100 details extremly good.

Richpen 213C / Mojo: Best detail airbrush I´ve ever used. Not that it can make the thinnest line, but it´s the one that can make it from the furthest distance. It must be the combination of the Mike Learn tuning, the needle and nozzle combination and pure luck that makes it what it is. And it works good for larger work as well. Only drawback is that it feels a bit clumsy. 

Airbrushes that I´ve owned:

Aztek 470: Hated it. Couldn´t get consistant performance from it. Might have been because it was at the same point as I started with acrylics.

Badger 100, 150 and 175: Didn´t really like any of them. Probably I expected more from them, since I was quite satisfied with the 200.

Fengda: At least 6 or 7 different ones that has come with compressor kits and other packages. Clones of known models. Inferior quality, but usually decent performers. Better than my Aztek experience....

Gunze/GSI PS-269 and 270: Works and funtions a lot like the HP-BH/CH, but has in my opinion better ergonomics. The 0.3mm 269 is probably all most modellers need in an airbrush.

H&S: Evolution Silverline fPS and Infinity 2-in-1: Didn´t like the feel of the triggers. Nice airbrushes though.

Iwata HP-B, HP-BS, HP-SBS, HP-CH, CM-B, CM-C, CM-C+: All Iwatas are nice airbrushes. Sold them mostly because I have others that perform equal or better.

Paasche VL: In my opinion, crude. Really didn´t find anything that made me keep it.

Richpen 033 Spectra / Moflo: Best siphon-fed airbrush I´ve had. If you want a bottle fed airbrush, this is a nice on. As with the Mojo, it is tuned by Mike Learn. Traded it away, and still miss it.

Airbrushes that I will buy in the future:

Badger Sotar. Mostly because I want one for my growing collection. Probably a Patriot or Velocity as well. Mostly because I wan´t to see what the fuss is about.;)

Hohmi/Holbein Y2 or Y3: Have heard great things about these airbrushes.

Iwata CM-SB: It´s the only Micron I´ve not owned or tried. Some artist state that it is the most responsive of the Microns.

Rich RB-2: Very good priced airbrush here in Europe, and it is supposed to be a solid alround performer.

Paasche AB Turbo: True classic. Need to have one for the collection, but it seems hard to find a left hand version at a good price.

 Edit: Added a few that I had forgot about, and some that I´m planning to buy. If you have any questions about these airbrushes, just ask, and I will answer what I can.

denstore

But in a thread for "beginner airbrushes", it might give the impression that if you don´t buy Iwata, you will get a bad airbrush.

I think H&S has been mentioned as a 'non-knock-off' brand...

Still, I think beginners ought to be aware about the trade-offs: You can save some $$$ at the risk of either getting a monday unit, or need to do some tweaks and mods to get the thing to work. Or you can shell out the extra $$$ once and for all and get something that works straight out of the box.

It's a question about priorities:

1. High-end brands/models are subjected to intense quality control. There is far less risk of getting monday units.
2. High-end brands/models tend to be properly adjusted from the factory.
3. High-end brands/models tend to be easier to handle.
4. High-end brands/models tend to be better supported in terms of spares, repairs etc.

If the user is willing to accept the associated risks to save some $$$, then that's their decison to make. The crux is that people know the trade-offs.

Apart from that, I'd be interested to know why the people here, who own three or more airbrushes, own that many units. I can see the need for one large-capacity signle-action 'spray gun' for the large-volume work, like hulls of ships, and one double-action unit for the finer detailed work.

But why does one own an airbrush #3?

Of course, I am aiming this in the direction of pointing out the cost of buying two units that does almost the same thing, where the 2nd unit have some extra capacity in one direction or the other. Then I would compare this to buying one (more expensive) unit that does everything the two inexpensive units do.

DoC

keilau

Den, your concern is NOT warranted.  I have not seen people called BB Rich, Richpen, Olympos, Grex or Sparmax a "knock-off" here or at other airbrush sites that I visited. If there were a few incidents of misinformed people, they usually got corrected pretty quickly.  People are intellegent enough to use "knock-off" for airbrushes that "looks like an Iwata, costs a lot less, but does not spray like one" only.

I will be very interested in seeing at least one post which would call BB Rich, Richpen, Olympos, Grex or Sparmax a "knock-off". It is just my curiosity to see in what context that was stated. I don't mean to argue.

My responses was about the statement that BearAir carried decent knockoffs, their PEAK line. Page 3, this thread.

I didn´t want to step on anybodys toes about that. I know my airbrushes. But in a thread for "beginner airbrushes", it might give the impression that if you don´t buy Iwata, you will get a bad airbrush.

stevetheradiodude

Alex: I am not sure if this is any help to you but it is possible to order a fine tip kit to swap for the the original medium  tip for the Badger 250.

                                                                      Steve

Steve, you must mean a different airbrush, the 250 is more of a spray gun and doesn't have a needle.

I'm sticking to my statement that I dont' think beginners should start with a quality brush instead of a  "knockoff."   And I've already qualified what I think is a "knockoff." 

If that irritates some... too bad.

Alex: I am not sure if this is any help to you but it is possible to order a fine tip kit to swap for the the original medium  tip for the Badger 250.

                                                                      Steve

denstore

keilau:

It usually applies to counterfiet goods that looks like a name brand product, sells for a lot less, but does not have the quality of the name brand.

The thing I´m reacting to is that people here and in a lot of other modelling communities seem to think that all airbrushes that looks like a Iwata HP-C is a knock off.

BB Rich, Richpen or Olympos has been making airbrushes that look like this .........Grex and Sparmax has also picked up that design, and it doesn´t make them more knock-offs than  Iwata.

Den, your concern is NOT warranted.  I have not seen people called BB Rich, Richpen, Olympos, Grex or Sparmax a "knock-off" here or at other airbrush sites that I visited. If there were a few incidents of misinformed people, they usually got corrected pretty quickly.  People are intellegent enough to use "knock-off" for airbrushes that "looks like an Iwata, costs a lot less, but does not spray like one" only.

I will be very interested in seeing at least one post which would call BB Rich, Richpen, Olympos, Grex or Sparmax a "knock-off". It is just my curiosity to see in what context that was stated. I don't mean to argue.

keilau

Den, the term "knock-offs" has special meaning in American language. It has nothing to do with Iwata or Chrysler. It usually applies to counterfiet goods that looks like a name brand product, sells for a lot less, but does not have the quality of the name brand. I saw it used most often with women's hand bags. I don't know who first applied it to name brand airbrush look-alike. The Iwata look was copied the most because they have the quality reputation. The airbrush "knock-offs" purposedly make the nozzle and needle dimension different from their copied original to avoid legal problem of copy rights.

I think that it is not a bad use of the term "knock-off" for those name brand look-alike, but low quality airbrushes.

I know what knock off mean. The thing I´m reacting to is that people here and in a lot of other modelling communities seem to think that all airbrushes that looks like a Iwata HP-C is a knock off. Problem is that other brands as BB Rich, Richpen or Olympos has been making airbrushes that look like this as long or even longer than Iwata.

Sure, there´s no question that companies like Fengdha makes cheap copies of the "general airbrush" design that has been popular in Japan for at least 30-40 years. Probably a lot longer. But a lot of other companies, like Grex and Sparmax has also picked up that design, and it doesn´t make them more knock-offs than  Iwata.

denstore

brickshooter:

I'm practical.

I just need a short generic name to describe a brush that looks like and sprays like an Iwata, but costs less.  If you have a good one, I'll gladly use it so that we could talk about the brush itself without getting sidetracked.    If not, I'll just use the term "knockoff" since everyone knows what that word implies.

It´s mostly that Iwata makes quite a lot of airbrushes, that perform in different ways, so to say that you want a common word for something that performs like a Iwata is like saying that you want something that performs like a Chrysler. And when you really wanted to say that you wanted something like a midend american car, people will wonder why you insist on saying Chrysler.

Iwata isn´t more the original than anything else. Their airbrushes are as much copies (knock-offs?) as anyone elses.

Den, the term "knock-offs" has special meaning in American language. It has nothing to do with Iwata or Chrysler. It usually applies to counterfiet goods that looks like a name brand product, sells for a lot less, but does not have the quality of the name brand. I saw it used most often with women's hand bags. I don't know who first applied it to name brand airbrush look-alike. The Iwata look was copied the most because they have the quality reputation. The airbrush "knock-offs" purposedly make the nozzle and needle dimension different from their copied original to avoid legal problem of copy rights.

I think that it is not a bad use of the term "knock-off" for those name brand look-alike, but low quality airbrushes.

brickshooter

 

I'm practical.

I just need a short generic name to describe a brush that looks like and sprays like an Iwata, but costs less.  If you have a good one, I'll gladly use it so that we could talk about the brush itself without getting sidetracked.    If not, I'll just use the term "knockoff" since everyone knows what that word implies.

It´s mostly that Iwata makes quite a lot of airbrushes, that perform in different ways, so to say that you want a common word for something that performs like a Iwata is like saying that you want something that performs like a Chrysler. And when you really wanted to say that you wanted something like a midend american car, people will wonder why you insist on saying Chrysler.

Iwata isn´t more the original than anything else. Their airbrushes are as much copies (knock-offs?) as anyone elses.

Killjoy

 

 I wasn't joking about finding a friend in the states, paypal him the money for the brush plus shipping, and have him mail it to you marked 'gift.'

Save you a ton-o-cash!

...but could get you into a pile-o-trouble. If customs were to find out - and they do tend to scan most of the parcels that pass international borders - you might find yourself in the recieving end of a tax-evation indightment.  

And there are those tiny details that cause all kinds of trouble. I visited the US some time in the mid '90s, and bought a Sony Discman over there. In my home country the discman would have cost me some USD 300, while I picked one up for $200 in Denver. When I returned cack home, I did not declare it in the customs, which saved me 20% ($40) in taxes. Which also prevented me from insuring the thing, since it had not been imported legally to the country.

The discman also came with a power adaptor, that was intended for the US power grid. Both the grid power and wall connectors were different where I intended to use the discman, so I had to cash out another $50 or so for a replacement power adaptor.

In the end I had only saved the import tax and was unable to insure the discman. Not a very good deal even if an insurance has not been necessary. I am still using the same discman, some 15 years later.

One should be very cautious about buying stuff in a different part of the world than where it is intended to be used. Airbrushes don't rely on electrical power, but there is a chance that screw connectors etc are different for different parts of the world. Don't be surprised if units sold in America use screw connectors in imperial units, while the same brand sells the same models in Europe with metric screw connectors.

If one falls into that kind of trap, one might very quickly find oneself in a very frustrating, and expensive, wait for all kinds of obscure adaptors and connectors.

DoC   

Phil_H

LOL Killjoy,

Over here in Oz, the Exlipse CS (siphon feed) runs around $250.00 -  $270.00 AUD, which is equivalent to about $230.00 - $250.00USD

Ok, since my Mom is in Oz, I do know that things are more expensive, but that's just rediculous.  I wasn't joking about finding a friend in the states, paypal him the money for the brush plus shipping, and have him mail it to you marked 'gift.'

Save you a ton-o-cash!

$89.00 eclipse BCS (siphon feed) + $13.45 USPS priority mail 6-10 days= $102.45 US.  Comes to about $110.00 Australian.  Toss in a 20 spot for the guy doing the work for ya, you're still $100.00 ahead!

Shoot, I'd do it for ya just to protest the ludicrous nature of import and excise taxes!

Chris

Killjoy

Man you guys in the UK take it in the can on airbrush prices!  Iwata eclipse cs for 129 pounds, that's $197.00 US!  Those go for $119.00 here! 77 pounds!  Wow, that's harsh!

Yes, it is called protectionism. In England, you pay extra for Japanese or American airbrushes. So they buy European. See this Revell Master Class Compressor at 175 pounds, and

Harder & Steenbeck Infinity 2-in-1 at 190 pounds.  You cannot do any better in the US.

LOL Killjoy,

Over here in Oz, the Exlipse CS (siphon feed) runs around $250.00 -  $270.00 AUD, which is equivalent to about $230.00 - $250.00USD

Man you guys in the UK take it in the can on airbrush prices!  Iwata eclipse cs for 129 pounds, that's $197.00 US!  Those go for $119.00 here! 77 pounds!  Wow, that's harsh!

Alex Shaw

What about this one -  PremiAir G35

It's made by the UK company "The Airbrush Company" own brand, PremiAir, you can buy spares for it and it has some very good reviews.

I've been using a Sparmax SP-35C for 4 years now. The PremiAir G35 is, I believe, essentially the same brush, though it has a "cut away" handle where mine has a standard handle with preset needle stop.

Nicely finished, nicely weighted. The needle taper is quite gentle, so it has a very linear trigger response. The only real downside that I have found is the "throw" of the trigger combined with the flat shape of the trigger button top can cause finger cramps when painting for extended periods.

They offer service and parts, for £40, you aren't going to find a better alternative.

As far as I am aware "The Airbrush Company" brushes are re-branded Sparmax items -  The G35 being the Sparmax SP-35.

It looks to be available in the US for about $70, & I would assume being Sparmax it would be reasonable quality - if their compresors are anything to go by.

What about this one -  PremiAir G35

It's made by the UK company "The Airbrush Company" own brand, PremiAir, you can buy spares for it and it has some very good reviews.

brickshooter

I'm practical.

I just need a short generic name to describe a brush that looks like and sprays like an Iwata, but costs less.  If you have a good one, I'll gladly use it so that we could talk about the brush itself without getting sidetracked.    If not, I'll just use the term "knockoff" since everyone knows what that word implies.

I have yet to find one like that yet. You usually can get 2 of the 3, but NOT all 3. Example:

The BearAir Peak C-5 "looks like and sprays like an Iwata", but it cost about the same as an Iwata. Even the parts are interchangable. I will not call it a knock-off.

The FengHua BD-208 "looks like an Iwata MICRON, but costs a lot less", but it DOES NOT spray like an Iwata. It is sold by many different brand names in the US. It is a knock-off of the Iwata. It can spray pretty fine lines when new, but does not have the feel and finish of an Iwata. The trigger feels loose and lacks precision. The needle feels soft and the tip dings and body bends too easily. The BD-208 needle has a different diameter than the Iwata needle which makes it impossible to substitute. You get what you paid for.

denstore

Then you must know what is the original, and in the case of the Peak C-5, it isn´t as simple as some people seem to think. I´m basing this on that more and more often I see people stating that this and that is a copy of the Iwata similar model, when Iwata isn´t more the original than anything else. The only real original Iwata design that I know of, is the Eclipse (which in my honest opinion is a fabulous airbrush).

I don´t want to restart the "which airbrush was first" war, but to sum it up, all of todays airbrushes are more or less copies of older designs. There´s not much happening in airbrush development.

So, to me, the use of "knock off" is more of a degrading term. It´s implying that it is copied from something better or original. In general, this might be correct when it comes to a lot of the chinese made airbrushes. Not that they all are bad, but they really don´t hold up to the japanese, european or american brands. But they don´t cost as much either. And the main difference is in things that can be corrected or enhanced. The needles need polishing (or even better replacment), and the chrome isn´t as good as in more expensive brands. One of the things that I feel immediately is the creepy feel of the main spring, and the usually rough feel of the trigger. But with a polished needle and trigger parts, a new spring and maybe a new preset back handle, they can perform just as good as any other airbrush.

Do I recommend the Fengda airbrushes to beginners? Usually not. Why? Mostly because there are enough possible pitfalls in the beginning stage of airbrushing anyway, and you really don´t need to be unsure if the equipment is working with or against you.

I'm practical.

I just need a short generic name to describe a brush that looks like and sprays like an Iwata, but costs less.  If you have a good one, I'll gladly use it so that we could talk about the brush itself without getting sidetracked.    If not, I'll just use the term "knockoff" since everyone knows what that word implies.

Phil_H

Another thing to consider when looking at the cheap "knock-off" brushes on Ebay and the like, is the availability of replacement parts.

That has probably been my biggest concern, and the reason I have never bought any of the knock-off brushes.  I am sure some of the Iwata look-alikes would perform reasonably well, but I like customer service (preferably in English,) and the ability to get a new part of something breaks or gets too worn. 

For my money, it's name brand all the way for those reasons alone, even if the perormance was identical!

Chris

Dr. Coffee

The inexpensive stuff might be tweaked and modified into a working unit if one knows what to do and how to do it, but beginners just don't know those kinds of things. In effect, the difference between a cheap knock-off (whatever a 'knock-off' might be) and a more expensive unit, is that with the expensive brand some expert with the manufacturer have already done all the tweaks and adjustments the user must do with the knock-off brand.

That is a critical point and may be the "make or break" factor for a beginner just starting out airbrushing.

Several years ago, out of curiosity, I picked up a cheap Badger 150 knock off "look alike" from an auto parts supplier. When I took it out of the box, the air cap/regulator simply fell off. When I drew back on the trigger, the needle didn't move, as the lock nut hadn't been tightened sufficiently.

Had I been unfamiliar with airbrushes, as a beginner may be, I may not have been able to make it work, as there were no instructions included.  All it took was a few turns on the lock nut and screwing the regulator back into place. I was able to do this because I was familiar with the general design/layout of the airbrush, but could a person who had just picked up an airbrush for the first time? Perhaps not. The supplier was an auto parts store - could they have helped? Probably not.

Would a person who had bought this as their first airbrush been frustrated? More than likely.

Another thing to consider when looking at the cheap "knock-off" brushes on Ebay and the like, is the availability of replacement parts. If you break or bend something and can't get a replacement part for it, then it becomes a paperweight. Sure, it may have only cost $30.00 but it's still a $30.00 paperweight.

denstore

Do I recommend the Fengda airbrushes to beginners? Usually not. Why? Mostly because there are enough possible pitfalls in the beginning stage of airbrushing anyway, and you really don´t need to be unsure if the equipment is working with or against you.

This is the universal dilemma, that applies just about anything: Beginners need easy-to-use hazzle-free gear that just works. The problem is, of course, that the gear that actually satisfy those requirements - no matter what kind of activity we are talking about - is expensive. Not necessarily top-of-the-line, but above average.

The inexpensive stuff might be tweaked and modified into a working unit if one knows what to do and how to do it, but beginners just don't know those kinds of things. In effect, the difference between a cheap knock-off (whatever a 'knock-off' might be) and a more expensive unit, is that with the expensive brand some expert with the manufacturer have already done all the tweaks and adjustments the user must do with the knock-off brand.

In the end, it becomes a question of how much you value your own time: Do you accept the hazzle and mods needed to tweak the inexpensive unit onto something useful? Or do you pay the $$$ difference and get a unit that works straight out of the box?  

DoC

Then you must know what is the original, and in the case of the Peak C-5, it isn´t as simple as some people seem to think. I´m basing this on that more and more often I see people stating that this and that is a copy of the Iwata similar model, when Iwata isn´t more the original than anything else. The only real original Iwata design that I know of, is the Eclipse (which in my honest opinion is a fabulous airbrush).

I don´t want to restart the "which airbrush was first" war, but to sum it up, all of todays airbrushes are more or less copies of older designs. There´s not much happening in airbrush development.

So, to me, the use of "knock off" is more of a degrading term. It´s implying that it is copied from something better or original. In general, this might be correct when it comes to a lot of the chinese made airbrushes. Not that they all are bad, but they really don´t hold up to the japanese, european or american brands. But they don´t cost as much either. And the main difference is in things that can be corrected or enhanced. The needles need polishing (or even better replacment), and the chrome isn´t as good as in more expensive brands. One of the things that I feel immediately is the creepy feel of the main spring, and the usually rough feel of the trigger. But with a polished needle and trigger parts, a new spring and maybe a new preset back handle, they can perform just as good as any other airbrush.

Do I recommend the Fengda airbrushes to beginners? Usually not. Why? Mostly because there are enough possible pitfalls in the beginning stage of airbrushing anyway, and you really don´t need to be unsure if the equipment is working with or against you.