Badger Patriot 105

osjohnm

 

 

Thanks for the nozzle dimensions, where did you find that info? Don't recall it being in the 105 manual.

No, Badger does not publish the nozzle dimensions. The nozzle was measured by Don Wheeler, an experienced Badger user and reliable source of information. You can also find the difference in needle taper between the fine and regular needles, which is more important than the nozzle dimension to define the airbrush characteristics.

keilau

If you like how the Badger 360 works, the Patriot 105 medium should work just fine for you. The parts are interchangeable.

I have a Patriot 105 fine. The nozzle is is actually 0.5 mm so it never had any problem with the acrylic. It is a very forgiving airbrush. The medium nozzle has a 0.76 mm diameter should be good for most large area too. You can get a lot of information at Don Wheeler's web site about the Patriot.

My regular airbrush is a Iwata Eclipse with the 0.35 mm nozzle. I have to thin the acrylic properly and use low pressure, multiple passes airbrushing. I like the result better than any of the larger nozzles. But it definitely is not as forgiving as the Badger 105 fine needle when it comes to thicker acrylic.

Thanks for the nozzle dimensions, where did you find that info? Don't recall it being in the 105 manual.

With that info even more tempted to try the fine parts before swapping out the medium parts.

One thing I did like about the HG III is that I could spray wheel rims without having to mask the rubber which had already been sprayed. (i build 1/35 armour).
Maybe with right pressure and practice could do the same with the 105 with medium parts?

I also found I had more control with the HG than the 360 but since the 105 is a dedicated gravity fed brush I'm guessing I'll still have that control?
Or use 360 for base coating and 105 with fine parts for cammo and finer details.

Lots to look forward too, best I go build some kits so they are ready and waiting for some paint

My brother builds 1/72 aircraft and use enamels exclusively and he always thins in a 1:1 ratio so he'll take my HG III off my hands. 

osjohnm

Bgrigg, I've been using a Tamiya HG III with the 0.3mm needle and ran into some problems with Tamiya acrylics clogging. Even spraying Windex or Tamiya acrylic thinners through the brush didn't help, had to strip the whole thing.

I use a Sparmax with a 0,35mm nozzle and have no problems with Tamiya acrylics, except for the metallics, which like to settle and clog very quickly in the brush. I usually just clean by wiping out the cup, backflushing and  running a little denatured alcohol through it..

Never really had to do a strip and clean, though I've pulled the needle to wipe it down every once in a while. I've only had the nozzle off it maybe two or three times in four years. Every now and then I put a few drops of lacquier thinner through it and flush it out wiht denatured alcohol.

You know guys I'm thinking about trading in my Eclipse HP-CS for a 105. I think I could sell the Eclipse for as much as a new 105. I also have a 155 that I am very happy with and I think the 105 would be perfect with it.

I prefer the trigger feel of my Badger and it's bullet proof where the Iwata seems very finicky and fussy at times. But when you set it up just right the thing is awesome. One of the 3 fingers broke off of  the needle chuck so I have to order a new part before I can sell it.

Although Badger says the 105 is a 155 with gravity feed, It isn't quite.  It comes standard with the fine needle, tip, and spray regulator.  I think they figured that anyone buying a gravity fed brush would want the narrower pattern.

Don

MaxPower

Noe I thought the 105 is basically a gravity ed 155. Now if this is the case it should only have 1 tip size like the 155? The 155 needs only 1 tip because of the 2 part way the needle is tapered. So it has a lot of range from a little paint to spewing it out fast and furious. If the 105 uses the same needle/tip why waste time and money on the medium tip?

Yes, the 155 and 105 nozzle-needle parts are interchangeable. Check the Badger store for parts list.

MaxPower, that was the idea behind the New Head, but it didn't work out that well. There are now the same three sizes available for that series, though they only mention the "large" one in relation to the 175 Crescendo.

Noe I thought the 105 is basically a gravity ed 155. Now if this is the case it should only have 1 tip size like the 155? The 155 needs only 1 tip because of the 2 part way the needle is tapered. So it has a lot of range from a little paint to spewing it out fast and furious. If the 105 uses the same needle/tip why waste time and money on the medium tip?

osjohnm

I've been using a Tamiya HG III with the 0.3mm needle and ran into some problems with Tamiya acrylics clogging. Even spraying Windex or Tamiya acrylic thinners through the brush didn't help, had to strip the whole thing.

Naturally this occurred during 2 different painting sessions with a "mini" brush strip between. So switched to the Badger 360 in the interim which reminded me how much I enjoy my Badger and how often just spraying some windex/acrylic thinner through keeps it happy.

The 360 and HG III use different air hose sizes which is a pain to swap when you're in the middle of a session.

So decided to get a Badger gravity fed brush since should I run into trouble again the switch over is much smoother.

Note - not saying the HG III is a bad brush, just think it isn't as hassle free as a Badger.

If you like how the Badger 360 works, the Patriot 105 medium should work just fine for you. The parts are interchangeable.

I have a Patriot 105 fine. The nozzle is is actually 0.5 mm so it never had any problem with the acrylic. It is a very forgiving airbrush. The medium nozzle has a 0.76 mm diameter should be good for most large area too. You can get a lot of information at Don Wheeler's web site about the Patriot.

My regular airbrush is a Iwata Eclipse with the 0.35 mm nozzle. I have to thin the acrylic properly and use low pressure, multiple passes airbrushing. I like the result better than any of the larger nozzles. But it definitely is not as forgiving as the Badger 105 fine needle when it comes to thicker acrylic.

This is why I promote medium sized needles to modelers. Fine needles are more suited to the finer pigmented paints and inks that illustrators use, and let's face it, airbrushes aren't designed for modelers!

You can purchase quick release attachments that would allow you to use one hose for all your airbrushes.

Thank you for the responses.

I didn't realise the bearing was seated inside the brush etc, thanks for clearing that up.

Thank you for the feedback regarding the fine needles and there sizes, will use the medium parts and if I need something finer will try the fine parts and see what happens.

Bgrigg, I've been using a Tamiya HG III with the 0.3mm needle and ran into some problems with Tamiya acrylics clogging. Even spraying Windex or Tamiya acrylic thinners through the brush didn't help, had to strip the whole thing.

Naturally this occurred during 2 different painting sessions with a "mini" brush strip between. So switched to the Badger 360 in the interim which reminded me how much I enjoy my Badger and how often just spraying some windex/acrylic thinner through keeps it happy.

The 360 and HG III use different air hose sizes which is a pain to swap when you're in the middle of a session.

So decided to get a Badger gravity fed brush since should I run into trouble again the switch over is much smoother.

Note - not saying the HG III is a bad brush, just think it isn't as hassle free as a Badger.

The needle bearing is not a typical user replaced part, though I've done it successfully, if not quickly. They don't make a different one for each needle size. It is there to help center the needle and to help prevent paint from getting back into the air valve, which shouldn't happen during normal use. Swapping the needle and nozzle won't affect how the bearing works.

As a user of the 100 series the answer of how the fine needle handles Tamiya acrylics is "Depends". Paints do not have a uniform pigment size or count between colors. One color may work and another will clog. White has more pigments than other colors and can be a challenge. In fact, another user just posted his experience spraying white with his new Sotar with the .18mm needle.

I have two 100LGs, one with the medium needle and one with the fine needle, and I use the medium 95% of the time. I build primarily 1:24 autos, with the occasional 1:48 aircraft and 1:35 armor and don't really need a finer line than I can pull with the medium needle. I've never experienced a clog with the fine needle, but my experience has been limited to a small sampling of color.

The 'Pro' series (105, 155, 175 etc.) has a slightly larger diameter "fine" needle than the 100 (.25mm compared to .21mm) and will be a bit more forgiving. However, my recommendation for the average modeler is a medium sized needle.

osjohnm

My concern is about the PFTE needle bearing which I'm guessing goes inside the spray regulator?
Is it easy to swap out these parts or should I get the suppliers to do this for me?

How well does the "fine" parts handle Tamiya Acrylics?

I know from other posts over the years the 100 series fine parts weren't recommended for modelling since majority of the model paint pigments were just too thick and the medium option was recommended.
Hence I ordered the 105's medium parts too.

The Teflon needle bearing is inside the body, flush with the back of the cup.  You could change it yourself (see my website), but you shouldn't have to and Badger will do it free if it ever needs it.

I don't use acrylics so I can't help you there, but I've never heard of anyone having trouble with them in the Patriot.  The medium needle/tip may be useful for spraying large areas, but you might find that you never need them.

Don