Question on airbrush cleaning

I use a Badger 350 so my cleaning routine may not apply to all.

If I am painting similar colors, such as military flats, I simply flush between sessions but enough residue remains behind that soon the performance does degrade and a break-down is needed.

I always breakdown and clean 100% when:

Switching between different types of paints such as acrylics, enamels and lacquers.

Painting anything with yellows, reds, greens or blues.

Painting metallics of any kind. (Those little metallic flakes don't look good on that white or clear finish-believe me, I know!)

Before spraying any clear coat.

Always after any kind of acrylic.

Just my rules...

You're fine. Just sometimes the paint may need a little more persuasion(sp) to get it all out. One of those little between the teeth brushes or a toothpick will break it loose. Just insert gently from the back and turn a little, then flush it out. You airbrush needle will work too just be gentle so you don't bend the tip. And whatever you use, of course, don't force it.

Acrylics are the worst about buildup. Enamels and lacquers will pretty much flush out with thinner as long as they haven't dried. As paint builds up in the passage it reduces flow so you have to pull the trigger back further to get the same amount of paint. Another side effect is that as paint flow is reduced and the air pressure stays the same then you'll get more tip dry. And because the passage the paint flows through is being reduced you'll get more clogs. If you notice those things happening then it's time to flush it out well or clean it. Using Model Master Acryll in my fine tip Sotar I have to stop and flush it often. Tamiya acrylics are much more forgiving and the enamels and lacquers I use are even more so.

Tony

You should really take the needle out & clean it - you will most likely find more paint on it than in the nozzle.

What I have been doing is taking off the nozzle and soaking it in thinner.

I definitely believe in complete cleaning at the end of  a session. All it takes is for one little flake of a color other than what you're shooting to ruin your work. May not be as noticeable with greens, greys and browns but a little speck of bright orange or red right in the center of pure white will ruin your day.

Like Milairjunkie said, paint tends to accumulate on the needle just in front of the needle seal/bearing and it's hard to get that out by just flushing. I usually pull the needle and wipe it down at color changes. If you're shooting acrylics they tend to build up in layers inside the tip/nozzle and flushing only won't clear it all. As it builds up you'll get more tip dry and clogging. Enamels or lacquers flush much better and don't build up like acryllics.

After you've done it a few times it doesn't take long to strip, clean and assemble. A pack of those little interdental brushes from the drugstore come in handy for cleaning.They'll stand up to lacquer thinner and the core of them is much smaller than a pipe cleaner. No fuzz either.

Tony

Definitely clean and strip after EVERY session. Cleanliness is next to Godliness when it comes to airbrushes, and that includes the color cups and jars too.

 I treat them as though they are surgical instruments in an operation room......nothing less than spotless!

There are different schools of though here as to how you should clean it, but with regards to how often - it should be at the end of each session.

Some recommend a flush at the end of each session, with whatever thinner / agent is suitable for the paint you are using.

Others recommend a flush & at least partial strip at the end of the session.

My own choice is the flush & strip at the end of the session for all the time it takes, as I often find paint toward the rear of the needle that a flush hasn't removed. I would also advise a good flush between colors & a seriously good flush between different paint types (Acrylic / Enamel....)