primer, primer, primer

I use cheap-a$$ WalMart automotive primer.  Their brand name has changed since I've been using it, but I think it's the same formula.  I use it both for plastic models and for metal figures.  I found that it covers well, and it is much cheaper by volume than primers made specifically for the scale modeling market.

I had tried Rustoleum's primer, which is good, but it, too, was more expensive by volume than the generic WalMart primer.

I have also built kits and not used a primer, where the surface seemed to have a good enough "bite", to avoid building up layers of paint, for example, on Eduard's 1/48 P-39Q kit.

I usually only apply 1 coat of primer, unless I see flaws, in which case, I address the specific area and hit it again with primer, though not by applying primer to the whole model again.

I've also settled on using the medium gray color, though I will also use the light gray.  I tried the rust red primer, on some metal figures, but found that it actually made it a little harder to see some detail, compared to gray.

Best regards,

Brad

I have never washed my kits or used a primer and i have never had a problem. I use lots of resin AM and PE as well and still find i don't need it. There seems to be an un-wrtitten rule that you have to use primer, but if your happy not useing it, then why start.

I almost always use primer, unless it's on a small part.  I've tried not using primer and had the paint peel right off - even after curing for a week.  I hate washing the parts, because it just seems like a lot of time waiting for pieces to air dry.  Priming serves the same purpose, plus it fills minor scratches and defects.

For large parts that don't have miniscule detail, krylon/dupli-color/off brand, is fine.  For parts that have a lot of itty, bitty detail, I prefer polyscale grey undercoat.  It's much finer grain and provides adequate coverage and bite without muddying the details.

-Fred

With the new type molding componds and molding methodes you should'nt need to prime just lightly wash air dry or dry with your airbrush and paint I've allways done it this way never had any probluems. I use Model Master and PolyS paints, once in a while some Tamiya.            ACESES5           

I have used Mr surfacer aero & Krylon as primers. My main reason in using it would be to cover plastics which contrast to much to the color coat, or to make uniform, say a white kit with green filler on it - so that coverage is easier.

I would say though that the best paint job I have done was on a kit that wasn't primed - it was a grey kit with grey / green camo on it though. That being said I recently gave the primer a miss on a white kit that was going to be color coated white, as it seemed to make sense - only problem was that ir was VERY difficult to see where I had adequate coverage, the result were less impresive than the last white aircraft I did, which was grey primed.

I also wonder about the real benefits of using primer & occasion have been suspicious that the extra prep time involved in priming is possibly worthless as sometime the finished article is no better / less better than the same job without primer. I am starting to think the whole primer thing may be best done on a case by case basis, worked out from the kit color, the paint color & the paint ability to cover / hide? 

i use games workshop black, grain free, fantastic primer.

lespauljames

i use games workshop black, grain free, fantastic primer.

I used to, but $15 a can?  Man is GW ever out of touch!  Duplicolor sandable auto primer all the way!  Super fine mist, clings to metal, resin, and plastic with ease, comes in several colors (I like red oxide or gray).

$4.99 a can!  Prime once, sand and or fix any flaws (usualy mine, not the paint) and you're ready for airbrushing!

Chris

I prime everything. Force of habit, I've been used to using lacquers on auto kits for several years.  Plus, a coat of primer helps me see things I wouldn't otherwise. I forget the number but I have a quart of DuPont auto primer that I thin to the consistency I need. Out of the can it will hardly drip off the mixing stick so I can thin it just enough to make it brushable and use it to fill seams or I can reduce it wayyyy down, spray it from a fine tip airbrush and put on the lightest of coats. I can spray a little heavier or use multiple coats to build it up to sand down and get rid of a seam. Unless I happen to get a rough surface from spraying a little too heavily into a corner or overspray buildup beyond the surface I'm shooting it's normally smooth enough to not have to sand. If it does need sanding it's soft enough to sand easily. I haven't had any problems with acrylics lifting when I tape over them either. As long as I keep the lid tight and don't contaminate it that quart will last a long time. It's light grey. I have other white and black primers for certain colors.

Tony

I always wash & prime.  My favorite primer is Floquil Grey Primer, applied with an AB.

Regards,  Rick

I use Mr Surfacer or Gaianotes primer.

Reasons:

1.) Primer lets me spot surface preparation problems easier.

2.) Consistant surface for paint adhesion across Plastic, PE, Resin, Putty, etc.

3.) Consistant colour for stuff (see above).

Since I use mostly laquers(hot paints) primer is optional, just got so used to it over the years.

Same as wet-sanding/polishing the primer coat.

Mad-Modeler

Reasons:

1.) Primer lets me spot surface preparation problems easier.

2.) Consistant surface for paint adhesion across Plastic, PE, Resin, Putty, etc.

3.) Consistant colour for stuff (see above).

Those are the three reasons I want to start, I know no one here recommended it, but I picked up a big can of Tamiya Fine Light Grey Primer, it was only 4.99, a good price I think for the size of the can, and I know several people around town use it on every model and they swear by it, I think I'll give it a go

I use Tamiya Fine Light Grey Primer, great stuff - I've used others and have settled on the Tamiya as the easiest to put down and quick drying too.

The only down site is that the fumes are terrible - make sure your have plenty of ventiallation and wear a mask.

I favor either Tamiya Fine light gray or white as a base for most painting. I've also tried Mr. Surfacer 1200 and it's also pretty nice.

waikong

- make sure your have plenty of ventiallation and wear a mask.

I have an industrial sized ventiltion unit in my work area, (my dad does a lot of woodworking+works a lot with various chemicals on the wood) so the fumes shouldn't be a problem.  Good to hear others like the stuff!  Just curious, I know with spray cans you should hold it upside down until the tube inside is empty, but are there any other techniques to cleaning the can?

Great info i always wash never prime .But i think i will next time always trying to inprove . Ron