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Airbrushing Lifecolor...

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  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Austin, TX
Airbrushing Lifecolor...
Posted by DoogsATX on Tuesday, August 3, 2010 1:29 PM

Anybody else have experience airbrushing Lifecolor acrylics?

I picked up a few bottles for my Dauntless since they offered exact FS# matches and I've read good things about them around the internet. 

I sprayed my first last night, and though the final result was solid, the experience was certainly rocky. 

A few observations...

- This stuff feels like shooting water. It'll run like water, too, but since it's so thin that doesn't seem to matter to the final finish. 

- I couldn't seem to land on a happy paint/thinner ratio. I wound up either too thick and clogging the nozzle, or too thin and spraying watery soup. I ultimately settled on a near 50:50 ratio.

- This paint likes to bubble up in the bottle and the airbrush cup.

- I didn't get good results with the recommended Lifecolor Thinner. Noticed some severe clumping when I was cleaning out the Iwata's color cup.

- Using Windex as thinner worked a LOT better. The stuff still sprayed watery, but noticeably better.

- The Lifecolor didn't seem to like primer very much. It went down much better on one of the cockpit bulkheads I forgot to prime.

- Took about three coats to get solid coverage. The Lifecolor certainly went down better over itself than over anything else.

Apologies for the strange lighting in the photos. I'm dealing with three different light sources with three different color temperatures. The iPhone gets confused

Given how thin this paint goes down and how many coats I needed to get good coverage, I think this stuff might be awesome with pre-shading. Still, the watery nature is frustrating.

Anybody got any thoughts on getting it to spray a bit more solid? For some reason I have it in my head to try adding a drop of dish soap or some acrylic retarder...

 

On the Bench: 1/32 Trumpeter P-47 | 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G | 1/144 Eduard MiG-21MF x2

On Deck:  1/350 HMS Dreadnought

Blog/Completed Builds: doogsmodels.com

 

  • Member since
    August 2006
Posted by Brian D. on Thursday, August 5, 2010 11:43 PM

Thanks for posting this question.  I just recently tried airbrushing Lifecolor dark green and had the same experience as you.  Pretty much everything you said about airbrushing the paint happened to me.  My main questions concern what thinner to use with this paint, what thinner to paint ratio to use, and what type of air pressure from my compressor should I be using.

It seemed like everytime I airbrushed, no matter what the thinner/to paint ratio, it all came out as a watery mess.  I like the color for what I am painting so I hope I can find out how to spray this paint.

Brian

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by DoogsATX on Friday, August 6, 2010 7:29 AM

Hey Brian - I tried adding some acrylic retarder to the mix and it certainly helped the paint spray a bit smoother. Less clogging on the tip side, at least. But it still came out all thin and watery.

I'm starting to suspect that just may be a quality of this paint, and that it'll have to be applied in multiple, thin coats at low psi. I mean, the cockpit walls and floor of my Dauntless do look pretty solid and uniform...

On the flip side, the stuff brush paints like a dream. Better than Vallejo, IMO.

On the Bench: 1/32 Trumpeter P-47 | 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G | 1/144 Eduard MiG-21MF x2

On Deck:  1/350 HMS Dreadnought

Blog/Completed Builds: doogsmodels.com

 

  • Member since
    July 2009
Posted by AlterEcho on Saturday, August 7, 2010 1:56 PM

Glad I saw this, I almost purchased the UA001 for a Russian tank. Instead, I will work with Vallejo, Tamiya or Mr. Color.

  • Member since
    August 2006
Posted by Brian D. on Saturday, August 7, 2010 2:16 PM

Funny you mention UA001 for painting Russian tanks.  This is the paint that I have been trying to airbrush.  For me it looks like it is dead on for Russian WWII armor.  I am not going to give up on trying to airbrush it yet.

Brian

  • Member since
    July 2009
Posted by AlterEcho on Sunday, August 8, 2010 2:59 PM

Brian D.

Funny you mention UA001 for painting Russian tanks.  This is the paint that I have been trying to airbrush.  For me it looks like it is dead on for Russian WWII armor.  I am not going to give up on trying to airbrush it yet.

Brian

Yeah Brian, I agree about the color and Russian tanks. I saw one at a show and asked what color he had used. It was the Lifecolor and it looked dead on...at least from what I remembered and pics I have seen (on a color corrected monitor used for photoshop). Good luck with it and let us know if there are any secrets for ab use.  Big Smile

  • Member since
    May 2007
  • From: Taxachusetts
Posted by camokid on Sunday, August 8, 2010 7:30 PM

I love airbrushing Lifecolor, although I must admit that I prefer very thin, transparent layers which allows me total control over how much and where. I use their thinner and pretty much fly by the seat of my pants with mix ratios. I also paint over primer, enamel flat black at that.

I always pour my paint through a mesh screen into the color cup or jar, (depending on which AB I'm using) you never know if a chunk of dried paint fell off the threads and into the jar when you opened it, or the last time you closed it. The bubbling effect sounds odd, I can't understand why paint would boil, unless the airbrush was a little dirty/clogged and the air was coming back through the cup.

I spray at low pressure, maybe 12 pounds, and make a ton of passes. It would probably be easier to watch it rather than read about it, so if you want to see what I am referring to, feel free to check this out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-mmtvMsEXQ

 

 

 

Ken

Build how you like, like how you build

 

  • Member since
    August 2006
Posted by Brian D. on Sunday, August 8, 2010 8:51 PM

After,

Yes, it definitely is a great color for Russian Armor.

I've been experimenting with using a 50/50 mix of Tamiya Thinner to Lifecolor.  I found that you have to spray thin coats of the stuff to cover the plastic well.  Also, you have to  have the intestinal fortitude to spray the paint on as it still splatters on the plastic.  I have to think that this is just the nature of the paint.  It doesn't look bad when dry although a little rough.

I have to say my first love is Gunze Sangyo Aqueous paint.  The stuff shoots on plastic as smooth as silk when properly thinned.  It's hard to find these days though.


Brian

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by DoogsATX on Monday, August 9, 2010 9:59 AM

camokid

The bubbling effect sounds odd, I can't understand why paint would boil, unless the airbrush was a little dirty/clogged and the air was coming back through the cup.

I spray at low pressure, maybe 12 pounds, and make a ton of passes. It would probably be easier to watch it rather than read about it, so if you want to see what I am referring to, feel free to check this out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-mmtvMsEXQ

Thanks for posting the video - I look forward to checking it out.

As for the bubbling, at least for me the paint bubbles when I shake the bottle. I've never not had the mouth of the jar covered by a paint bubble when I open it. I also get some bubbling when transferring paint to a mixing jar using a dropper, and a TON after thinning it down with Windex. But the last I'm certain is more Windex than Lifecolor.

On the Bench: 1/32 Trumpeter P-47 | 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G | 1/144 Eduard MiG-21MF x2

On Deck:  1/350 HMS Dreadnought

Blog/Completed Builds: doogsmodels.com

 

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Monday, August 9, 2010 11:46 AM

Shaken, not stirred, is great for Bond's Martini, but terrible for paint. Introducing bubbles to paint is not recommended, as well it allows paint to splash against the lid and neck of the bottle, where it can dry and leave particles of paint to further contaminate your paint. Stirring is best, though it can be tedious.

So long folks!

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by DoogsATX on Monday, August 9, 2010 11:56 AM

Bgrigg

Shaken, not stirred, is great for Bond's Martini, but terrible for paint. Introducing bubbles to paint is not recommended, as well it allows paint to splash against the lid and neck of the bottle, where it can dry and leave particles of paint to further contaminate your paint. Stirring is best, though it can be tedious.

And here I've almost always shaken paint...

Learn something new every day! Thanks!

On the Bench: 1/32 Trumpeter P-47 | 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G | 1/144 Eduard MiG-21MF x2

On Deck:  1/350 HMS Dreadnought

Blog/Completed Builds: doogsmodels.com

 

  • Member since
    July 2009
Posted by AlterEcho on Wednesday, August 11, 2010 11:23 PM

Brian D.

After,

Yes, it definitely is a great color for Russian Armor.

I've been experimenting with using a 50/50 mix of Tamiya Thinner to Lifecolor.  I found that you have to spray thin coats of the stuff to cover the plastic well.  Also, you have to  have the intestinal fortitude to spray the paint on as it still splatters on the plastic.  I have to think that this is just the nature of the paint.  It doesn't look bad when dry although a little rough.

I have to say my first love is Gunze Sangyo Aqueous paint.  The stuff shoots on plastic as smooth as silk when properly thinned.  It's hard to find these days though.


Brian

"intestinal fortitude", to funny Big Smile   Makes you wonder if the paint is the boss sometimes   Smile

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Northern KY
Posted by mucker on Thursday, August 12, 2010 1:38 PM

I'm with Brian on the Gunze stuff. THat being said, Aeroscale website has afew review on LifeColor. The consensus is do NOT use another brand of thinner...use only LiefColor thinner or, simpy enough, water.

http://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=2955

 

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by DoogsATX on Thursday, August 12, 2010 1:55 PM

mucker

I'm with Brian on the Gunze stuff. THat being said, Aeroscale website has afew review on LifeColor. The consensus is do NOT use another brand of thinner...use only LiefColor thinner or, simpy enough, water.

http://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=Reviews&file=index&req=showcontent&id=2955

I haven't tried Gunze acrylics because I don't want to get addicted to paint I can't get. Heck, I'm even hesitant on Lifecolor because I'll have to rely on 100% mail order. I can easily see a future where I bounce around from Vallejo to Lifecolor to Tamiya, depending on the kit and what I'm trying to do.

I actually had a heck of a breakthrough with Vallejo last night, using a mix of 70% airbrush medium and 30% diluted water as a thinning solution. Both Vallejo and Lifecolor have been spraying extremely thin and watery for me, but the airbrush medium gave it a fantastic creaminess. I think I'm going to have to try the same solution with Lifecolor and see how it goes.

On the Bench: 1/32 Trumpeter P-47 | 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G | 1/144 Eduard MiG-21MF x2

On Deck:  1/350 HMS Dreadnought

Blog/Completed Builds: doogsmodels.com

 

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by DoogsATX on Friday, August 13, 2010 10:36 AM

After spending the better part of this week experimenting with paints versus actually building my Dauntless, I think I'm about ready to write Lifecolor off in favor of Vallejo.

So far I've managed to get Vallejo to spray very well using either Future or a 70:30 airbrush medium/water mix as a thinning solution. 

Last night I tried the same solutions with Lifecolor, and it still shot thin and watery. Adding more paint to thicken things up a bit just introduced crazy tip dry issues. I finally got it to do what I wanted, and I'll need to bust out the Lifecolor Interior Green one more time to spray the canopy frames, but it's much more of a hassle to deal with than the Vallejo. 

If the Lifecolor non-spec blue grey had been a dead ringer for the color I'm after, it might be a different story, but it shot way too light. The equivalent Vallejo (same FS#...) shot way too dark, but Vallejo's dropper bottles make it much easier to mix and match to get the appropriate color.

On the Bench: 1/32 Trumpeter P-47 | 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G | 1/144 Eduard MiG-21MF x2

On Deck:  1/350 HMS Dreadnought

Blog/Completed Builds: doogsmodels.com

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Northern KY
Posted by mucker on Friday, August 13, 2010 1:45 PM

I'm glad to hear Vallejo is working for you. I have a few bottles of both their brush and Air lines and am fond of them.

Great start on the bird so far.

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by DoogsATX on Friday, August 13, 2010 2:11 PM

mucker

I'm glad to hear Vallejo is working for you. I have a few bottles of both their brush and Air lines and am fond of them.

Great start on the bird so far.

I wish it was the actual bird! This is a shoddy Revell Dauntless that I slapped together to use as a paint testbed. Given the lack of a pilot's seat or even vaguely accurate panel detail, I've christened it the Fail Dauntless.

The real one is still in the early build phases. Accurate Miniatures' Rube Goldberg-esque cockpit design has me going at the speed of baby steps. 

On the Bench: 1/32 Trumpeter P-47 | 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G | 1/144 Eduard MiG-21MF x2

On Deck:  1/350 HMS Dreadnought

Blog/Completed Builds: doogsmodels.com

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Northern KY
Posted by mucker on Friday, August 13, 2010 3:23 PM

The AM kit is a gem. Going slow is the right thing to do...you'll definately be happy with the final outcome that way. If I recall correctly the gun turret was a little tricky, but if my fat fingers can pull it off, anyone can.

I'll be watching for progress pics!

 

  • Member since
    October 2010
  • From: Flanders
Posted by Stefaan on Thursday, February 17, 2011 1:03 PM

I love Lifecolor for brush painting. Will give the airbrush a try soon. But what i really wanted to say: thank you for that awesome link !

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