new to metalizers

Alclad doesn't need thinning, you can shoot it straight out of thebottle. The only thing you have to be aware of is that the mettalic "pigment" will begin to settle in the carrier fairly quickly. (ten minutes) So don't leave this stuff in your airbrush too long without remixing.

Alclad recommends waiting 30mins betwen coats-it won't get any drier after an hour. Alclad will tolerate low-tack masks very well if:

-you prime properly
and
-you're using the regular shades.

If you're shooting HP Aluminum or Chrome, you really should seal it before masking. Those are a bit more delicate than the regular shades.

Lacquer thinner works fine. Alclad makes a cleaner- which I've used. But I haven't noticed a huge difference over LT.

thanks fellows, im excited about trying some of it. can you clean it with lacquer thinner or do they reccomend a cleaner?

Thanks for that info calculon. I know what you mean about hot lacquers.

Does it need thinning?

When you say "dry to the touch in 15 mins.", can you mask it that soon, or does it require more curing time before the mask?

stinger

Squadron.com stocks the Alclad II line, including the grey and gloss black primers (which I heartily recommend you use) For the most Alclad shades use the grey primer, For Chrome or High Polished Aluminum use the gloss black primer. You have to pay closer attention to what's *under* the Alclad than applying the Alclad itself. Try do do your primer as smoothly and evenly as possible.

Shooting Alclad color:
Shoot two light coats at low pressures, 8-12psi and at close range. It's a hot lacquer, If you're too far away, the paint will dry before it hits the model. Dry to the touch in about 15 mins. Alclad tolerates masking quite well-the finish won't lift or peel off. But you don't want to leave the masks on too long or they will leave "footprints" in your finish.

David - Glad to help and hope you have good success. They really aren't that hard to use.

Salty - I just checked with www.greatmodels.com , and they have several to choose from. Go to their site and just do a search for AlClad (be sure to get the spelling right, I'm always screwing it up myself). They do require a primer to look good, though, and some, like the natural aluminum that I have, require a gloss black base coat.

Swanny has used these alot I gather. Maybe you should drop him a line and get his feedback also. Nice guy.

Stinger

where do you purchase Alchad II (online perferably)? my favorite aircraft of all time is the P-51D mustang and most were flown straight from the factory. ive assembled one by tamiya (which was trouble free i might add and well worth the few extra dollars) and sprayed it with mm aluminum (nonbuffing metalizer) and sealed with mm metalizer sealer. the finish looked ok for my first build of my life. it took about 6 light gloss coats to make it shine. it was a pain to work with because it cant be masked in any way, shape, or form. you have to mask your painted areas, paint them, let them dry, mask over where you just painted, and then spray your metal finish. a real pain. anyway, ive heard a great deal of positive input about the alcad products but i just cant find them where i live. thanks

Thank you very much stinger!!!!!! this will help me out alot!!!!

David

You can buff the paint with several things. Q-Tips, a soft cotton cloth, anything soft like that. Don't use too much pressure, and try to keep the cloth or whatever from building up, as the pigments transfer to it. Use a cloth under your finger for large areas, such as a full wing. To highlight just a particular area such as an access panel, use a Q-Tip, but the fuzziness of it tends to brush against adjacent areas. I have used Micro brushes (the smallest white handled ones) to get a good clean separation between panels.

Use a light touch with minimal pressure and don't worry about rubbing the paint off. That won't happen.

I have airbrushed many metalizers and haven't yet had to thin them. They spray just fine (for me) right from the bottle. Just be sure to mix it well and get all of the pigments into suspension. Put three BB's in the jar and shake it well with a rotating motion.

Hope this helps

stinger

i am also new to metalizer! i bought some spay cans and bottle both. some say that they are buffable. my question is buffable with what?. i dont want to use something that will rub it right off. another question i have is that the bottle metalize is for airbrush only...is it thinned or do i have to thin it with metalizer thinner?

I just did a Revell P-40 and used my new air brush. I think i did a pretty good job but I still need some think thats relitivly easy. I have a good amount of patiants. help me with my metal finishes

lilmodeler

First of all, welcome to the forum!

There are several brands and types of metal finishes available, and you will find just as many people here who will swear by each of them. Basically whatever works for you is what you will find the best, but it may take you a few tries of each to find that out.

For myself, I have had good luck with Model Master metal finishes, including the buffable type. I also have a bottle of Alcad II that I haven't yet tried, but Swanny swears by it.

There is also the BareMetal foil that looks awesome when it's done right, but it's too much work for me (I'm too impatient).

Give this thread a little time to get answers from the others. They are far more experienced than me.

Good luck with your Mustang, and let us know how it progresses.

stinger

The majority of "metalizer" paints are fragile (will rub off easily, can't be masked), requiring a clear coat sealer, which dulls the polished aluminum look. Some decals don't adhere well to unsealed metalizers. I used to use Model Master until I tried Alcad II. It is pricey (I paid about $7 for each 1 oz. bottle) and requires a primer (they make a gray & a black, their chrome & polished aluminum require a gloss black acrylic). It doesn't need to be sealed, and can be masked. It is a very "tough" finish.From now on, I will only use Alcad II.
(I'll edit this post to include a pic)


The guns are Alcad steel, the bulkhead is Alcad duraluminum, and the shell chutes are Model Master metalizer gunmetal. The paint shows the surface detail well. The guns are cast white metal.
Hope this helps.