Rough surface for non-skid walkway?

Multiple post. Not sure what happened but I got an error-message when posting.

Multiple post. Not sure what happened but I got an error-message when posting.

Here is one method I heard about.

Apply tamiya thin cement to the area you want the walkway to be(might need to mask).  Let it soften the plastic for a bit than press sandpaper into the softened plastic and remove.

 You now should have a rough surface texture(different grains will give different effects) let it dry and remove any masking you used.

Another method I heard is lay down a thin layer of Surfacer 500, it is roughish and should leave a similar effect..

That cement idea's interesting! I wonder if it'd work with good old Testors liquid cement. Not really too keen on buying more solvent-cement if I don't have too. Already have Tenax, Ambroid and a random bottle of Testors sitting around.

Also...planning to add the non-skid after principal painting, which might interfere with the cement's plastic-melting abilities.

Fine grit sandpaper painted black would work but is probably out of scale in thickness. You could experiment with water to remove some of the backing paper or even sand the back...

Sanding sandpaper! I love it!

I actually thought about using sandpaper...but then there's the issue of adhering it.

I wonder how a thin, textured tape like Tamiya  or maybe some medical tape might do. Hmm...

CA glue would work. Even diluted white glue, this will soften the backing paper as well to conform to the surface shape.

Some wet sand paper comes in very fine grits all ready & is black or very dark gray, once on the model it can be dry brushed or washed to get the exact color you need.

You could try masking off the area and stippling with Mr Surfacer or Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer. If you use the Tamiya stuff, if you don't like the result you can wipe it off using denatured alcohol. Mr Surfacer will need something a little stronger.

SuppressionFire

Fine grit sandpaper painted black would work but is probably out of scale in thickness. You could experiment with water to remove some of the backing paper or even sand the back...

There are so many grades of sandpaper that you can get a grade useful at virtually any popular modeling scale.  Also, most wet-or-dry papers come in black, which is just right for many aircraft walkways.

Have to say, this Dauntless is turning into one heck of a learning experience! Trying and considering trying all kinds of techniques I've never even thought of before.

Not sure how well this will work on aircraft; but for armor we sometimes use Terra Cotta spray paint.  Rustoleum and Valspar make it in the big rattle can...one of which ought to last you FOREVER. 

The tedious part is masking off stuff something I'm going through now.  I'm getting ready to add the non-slip to my AFV Club Stryker MGS.  Will post a message on here w/ pics once it's all done!

RESlusher

Not sure how well this will work on aircraft; but for armor we sometimes use Terra Cotta spray paint.  Rustoleum and Valspar make it in the big rattle can...one of which ought to last you FOREVER. 

The tedious part is masking off stuff something I'm going through now.  I'm getting ready to add the non-slip to my AFV Club Stryker MGS.  Will post a message on here w/ pics once it's all done!

Awesome - thanks for the idea! If it's the stuff I'm thinking about, it might be too rough for the scale, but I could always give it a light sanding. 

Hmm...options, options...

EDIT - turns out I was thinking of that fake stone textured paint. Guess I'll be hitting Lowe's during lunch!

I spent the better part of the day one Saturday looking for the Rustoleum brand.  It's part of their "American Accents" product line.  They had bookoo cans of the stone; but no one had the Terra Cotta.  I ran into the Valspar brand by accident.

Successful lunch outing was successful.

The Rustoleum fine textured - at least what's on the cap - feels a lot like 1200 or so grit sandpaper. I'm going to do some comparison tests on the Fail Dauntless before I use these on the Accurate kit. If one or the other doesn't work out, I'm sure they'll get put to use somewhere in the backyard. 

Now the real question...will these decant? I don't think I'd risk spraying them through the Iwata, but I may give it a go with the old Paasche H.

Now the real question...will these decant? I don't think I'd risk spraying them through the Iwata, but I may give it a go with the old Paasche H.

There is no need to decant them at all.  All you do is tape the area off and spray from the can.  It comes out great. 

A few examples:

Hope that helps.

Does it ever! Thanks! 

Masking off all those bolt heads on the armor is a pain in the posterior though! 

I'm masking off everything at once so I can move from applying the non-slip right to priming...after suitable drying time has elapsed of course.  If I'm lucky I may get to sniff some paint fumes this weekend!!

Tried the Valspar terracotta on the Fail Dauntless last night. Felt it this morning, and it's definitely the perfect texture. Thanks, gents!

Think I may still try decanting it, since I'll be spraying the walkways over already-painted wings and would definitely prefer the more controlled spray (even a quick pass got all over the place)...

Finally got to spray the terracotta black. I think for a real kit it'll definitely be a darker gray.

Texture-wise, it seems to work. Hard to tell in the photo, though, since the rest of the Fail Dauntless has a pretty dusty texture already.