Model Masters paint?

I have used plenty of both types and have great results airbrushing and handbrushing. My personal preference is for the older original formula enamels, but the MMII and Acrylics work well also. The basic difference between the two types is their clean up. Enamels require a chemical thinner and clean up, while Acrylics can be thinned and cleaned up after use with water. Handbrushing with acrylics often requires a second coat due to their nature in my expereinces with them.

I use Testors enamel almost exclusively.  I thin with the Testors enamel thinner, but clean up with regular turpentine.  I like the slower drying of enamel when working with it, though do not like the slow final drying in humid weather.  A tradeoff, I guess.

It also works well for drybrushing and for washes.

Model Master and PolyS all I use don't like MM acrylics they stink  ACESES5

I've recently started using Vallejo and Tamiya more and more, but Model Master enamels still come out from time to time. I principally use MM enamels for drybrushing and painting small metallic objects (MM Chrome Silver, Aluminum and Steel). And I still haven't found a Green Zinc Chromate/Interior Green replacement that doesn't require mixing.

Personally, I hate the MM Acryl line. Haven't had much luck either brushing or airbrushing. But your mileage may vary.

Friend,

 I would suggest moving to Tamiya acrylics -and or- Vallejo acrylics for the airbrush. You can thin them with windshield washer fluid, isopropal alcohol, or Tamiya acrylic thinner for Tamiya & Vallejo Thinner for Vallejo. You will be pleased with the results. These paints will give you the best results with the minimum amount of effort. The learning curve with these acrylics is not bad at all.

I use MM acrylics almost exclusively. I would consider myself a rank amateur model builder and I get  decent results both handpainting and airbrushing. The problem you will run into with tamiya paints is the limited selection of colors where as MM has a very big color selection.

Just my  2 cents worth

Been a long time user of MM enamels, though extra caution must be taken for good ventilation when airbrushing and all that. I never became very good with acrylics, other than when I paint railroad structures and scenery.

jimbot58

Been a long time user of MM enamels, though extra caution must be taken for good ventilation when airbrushing and all that. I never became very good with acrylics, other than when I paint railroad structures and scenery.

I have not found Testors enamels to be that bothersome.  I found the old Floquil much more irritating and had to have more ventilation for it.  Ditto for lacquers.

I have had a lot of success with Model master acrylic, and I like Polly-s for airbrushing. It's a great all-around paint. Not perfect for airbrushing, not perfect for brush, but it can be used either way with good results. I'm not sure why everyone complains about it, I have gotten some really great finishes with it. But the metallic colors are awful, that I admit.

I am a total convert to acrylics, Model Master Acryl and Pollyscale by far make up the bulk of my paints, but I also have a good selection of Tamiya, Vallejo, and Games Workshop as well. Each have their good and bad points. I particularly like the Games Workshop metalic colors, they are the only metallics I've ever had good luck hand brushing.

I like the MM Chrome Silver enamel, but I generally don't use enamels at all. I've found that MM acrylics can be a pain to get just the right mix for airbrushing, and for handbrushing they don't seem to have very good adhesion especially on bare plastic surfaces. In my experience, using MM acrylics pretty much necessitates a primer layer first and even then it usually takes multiple coats to get good coverage. There are definitely better acrylics out there for both airbrushing and handbrushing, but as pointed out the MM line has a much greater color selection than say Tamiya.

Here's a neat little trick for making any acrylic perfectly suitable for airbrushing or hand brushing - mix 50:50 with Future.

Mix it in the paintcup of the airbrush, or whatever you use for hand brushing (they sell those little plastic trays with the dimples for $1 - or use a cheap ice cube tray).  Mix thoroughly with an electric stirrer (gives the the best emulsification, IMHO) and spray at the same PSI as you would straight Future.

No gritty finish, no brush strokes and no rolling (notorious Tamiya issue).  Dries fairly quickly and there's no need to add a Future coat, afterwards. 

I've done this with Tamiya, Testors' Model Master and PolyScale, with absolutely zero problems.

-Fred

Fred - Future always works extremely well with Vallejo. I've read that Future and Tamiya don't get along, but I might have to give it a shot, since this is the second time in a few days I've read otherwise.

Also - I've tried Lifecolor with Future and it still sprays like a watery mess. Too bad, because it brush paints pretty well.

Another vote for MM chrome silver, but I never use it straight. I'll mix it with various oil paints, either for drybrushing or simulating certain metal finishes.