Primer....ARRRGHHH!!!

Don't know what kind of primer you're using, but you gotta get close enough so that it goes on wet.  Practice on junk plastic.

Don

Oh I am just using some 99 cent Walmart gray primer.  My results have been hit or miss with it:  either spectacular or atrocious.  Unfortunately I have yet to find a gray primer that is any better.  I assume it is my 'technique' but that said I use Home Depot's cheap flat black to prime as well and I have never had a problem with it.  I also may have not cleaned the models well enough.  I was thinking back on the last three disasters and each had Squadron putty and sanding involved in their construction.  Ah well, thank goodness for paint stripping!

As an aside I enjoy reading your articles concerning airbrushes.  You are doing us all a service!

Mike

Mike,

Try Krylon's Fusion for plastic.  About $2.50 a can, but works great for me so far.

Bob

Mike,

I've never tried the Walmart stuff.  But, I have used Krylon and it goes on nice.  Just don't get it on too heavy.  It's pretty hot, and you can start losing details.  It wasn't the Fusion for plastics though.

Thanks for the comment on the web site.  I really appreciate it.

Don

@Bob,

I actually do use Fusion for plastic miniatures; black though. Maybe I will give the gray a shot.

@Don,

I don't know about the Fusion stuff being hot.  I have noticed that its quality varies with the quality of the plastic.  I have found little difference between it and regular spray paints on some soft plastics.  I found that it just flaked right off some Zvezda Napoleonic figures and some HaT ones as well.  Most of the time, though, it is great.  I used it exclusively for plastics and metals for quite some time.  It is only the last year or so that I started experimenting a bit more.  I am somewhat tempted to try both some automotive primers and hobby specific stuff i.e. Tamiya Surface primer.

Don Wheeler

Mike,

I've never tried the Walmart stuff.  But, I have used Krylon and it goes on nice.  Just don't get it on too heavy.  It's pretty hot, and you can start losing details.  It wasn't the Fusion for plastics though.

Thanks for the comment on the web site.  I really appreciate it.

Don

 

I also use the Krylon stuff, and even a wet coat is somewhat matt.  I always sand with 600 or 1000 grit before putting color down over it.  That is just the nature of a good, full-bodied primer.  One of the reasons for using a full-bodied primer is to cover scratches and slight imperfections.  Lots of solids makes the result a bit rough and flat.

Try Duplicolor sandable automotive primer.  It comes in several colors, including gray, shoots a super-fine mist, and sticks well to plastic, metal, and resin.  $4.99 at most auto-parts stores.

For any rattle can, shake for 2-3 minutes, then set it in a cup of really warm (not hot) water.  If your hand can be in the water and not get burned, that's about right.  After a few minutes, shake again, and your sprays should be more consistant.

Chris

Hmm I usually shake the can for at least a couple of minutes...never tried the warm water thing.  I may try and pick up some Duplicolor after work. 

Thanks!

I've used rattlecan primer before, but IMO you can't beat the Mr. Surfacer products sprayed with an airbrush. Plus, there's just no comparison in the level of control you get with an AB compared to the rattlecans. Although for those larger projects where surface detail is minimal, rattlecans are a lot more economical and easy.

Friend,

 Your best bet is to prime with an airbrush. If this is not for you, try Testers primer. It is available at the big box arts and craft stores and you can find 40% - 50% coupons in the Sunday adverts.

 The problem sounds similar to what ahppens when paint dries in the air before it hits the model surface. I do not always believe that "you get what you pay for" but, this may be a case where it is worth the money to either by a modelers primer or prime with an airbrush.