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Smoothing paint

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  • Member since
    October 2010
  • From: Idaho
Smoothing paint
Posted by jlaporte on Saturday, October 9, 2010 11:43 AM

Hello everyone,

Because it is my first post I would like to intorduce myself. I'm a brand new modeler just taking the hobby back from when I was a kid. So let just say I don't know much.

I'm in the process of doing my first model. and I made a lot of mistakes on it that frustrate me because I'm not getting a perfect model but I guess I need to learn from those mistakes. I'm doing a spitfire mk IX from airfix straight out of the box (I just sanded or filled some inaccuracies). I do not have an airbrush yet so I got some paint and some spray paint from Tamiya.

Yesterday, I masked the whole airplane for the last camo color spraying. Today when I removed the masking tape the demarcation lines between the two colors of the camo are very very sharp and I have an excess of paint on each line where the paint builded up on the thickness of the masking tape.

I was wondering if there is any way to smooth everything out (maybe using very fine sanding paper) and if I could have an effect that will still be sharp because it's a spitfire but not as sharp (maybe brushing some paint thinner to blend the two colors of the camo better).

Thanks in advance for any suggestion on how to fix my airplane.

Sincerely,

Jeremy

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by batai37 on Saturday, October 9, 2010 2:15 PM

See /forums/p/12406/111923.aspx#111923 for some suggestions.

I've had some success with using a Q-Tip moistened with Goo Gone to smooth out lines like this as long as they weren't too pronounced and the paint not fully cured, although I've only tried this with acrylic paints. Otherwise, wet-sanding with a fine grit sanding stick is probably the most commonly suggested technique.

I use those swizzlestick-type sanding sticks a lot since I can sand very small areas without too much overlap onto the adjacent areas I don't want sanded, and they come in a variety of grits with a finer and rougher grit on either side of the stick. They don't hold up too long for wet-sanding though...the sanding surface tends to detach from the stick, although this is easily fixed with some super glue.

Best thing is to heed the advice about painting in light coats and removing the masking as soon as the paint is dry (but not cured) to avoid paint lines in the first place. Also, you'd find you have a lot more control over the paint if you used an airbrush versus rattlecans.

There are lots of threads for how to achieve a soft demarcation line when painting camo schemes too. Try a search based on "soft camo lines" in this forum.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Green Bay, WI USA
Posted by echolmberg on Saturday, October 9, 2010 4:16 PM

Welcome to the insanity, Jeremy!

Don't get overly frustrated with the paint job!  Head to the hobby shop (tough task, I know) and get a hold of some fine polishing cloths.  They kind of look like the squares of sandpaper you might already have but these come in grits like 3200 all the way to 12,000.  They're great when you wet sand with them.

Start with the 3200 and work your way all the way up to the 12,000.  Actually, that'll give you a good shine since that's basically their job.  So maybe stop at around the 8,000 grit.  That'll even out the paint and especially those raised tape lines in the paint.

I hope that helps!

Eric  Welcome Sign

  • Member since
    October 2010
  • From: Idaho
Posted by jlaporte on Saturday, October 9, 2010 8:03 PM

Well thanks for the advice. I went with my finest sand paper I had (super fine but I don't know grit) the camo looks a lot better but in some area I sanded the paint away too Sad

I don't feel like decanting spray paint so I think I will leave it like it is. It will give the model an interesting weathering look Confused.

Now I have a reason for my wife to get me an airbrush for my birthday/christmas because camo with spay can is not the easiest job. It would be fine with one color airplane though.

Thanks again.

Jeremy

  • Member since
    July 2010
Posted by Mad-Modeler on Saturday, October 9, 2010 8:50 PM

Not sure if it been addressed.

Always use a freshly cut edge of the tape as tape frays/thickens/gets dirty if left untouched, and always burnish down the edges with a burnishing tool.

  • Member since
    April 2010
  • From: Yuma, AZ
Posted by Ripcord on Sunday, October 10, 2010 10:26 AM

Take tiny balls of clay or the like and place them on the edges of the mask you used to slightly raise the mask.  When painted the mask creates a soft edge.  On youtube the "testors model work shop" shows how to perform this camo spray.

Mike

  • Member since
    April 2010
  • From: Yuma, AZ
Posted by Ripcord on Sunday, October 10, 2010 10:41 AM

Mike

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