New to airbrushes

I went to my local hobbie shop the other day, and I saw model master's metalizer and metalizer sealant. How do you apply the metalizer? Can it be done with a brush?
And then the sealant afterwards? I am still confused about some people using "laquer" after painting, and then applying a "wash"??? Isnt the laquer a wash? And the light black paint for the line fill in goes after the main paint, or before? If its after, wouldnt it taint the primary paint making it black? And airbrushes, I went to dixieart, and saw the eclipse hbp-cs, hpb?
whats the diff?

IMHO Testors putty in all forms variations and repackaging is TRASH! I never have got the stuff to do anything more than crumble and flake and make a nice mess! I use Squadron Putties almost exclusively though recently picked up some Tamiya putty but have yet to try it. I have some of thier epoxy putty(Tamiya) but it's only seen minimal use in some interesting situations.
For a good seam filling technique using the Squadron putty....Check out this:http://www.swannysmodels.com/Seams.html

Swanny is a member here and thanks to that nice lil article right there I have saved time and heartache. It takes a while filling the seams with that method but the end results are worth the extra time and work, though theres not much extra work if you consider all the time you save on sanding.

Thank you all for your most informative input...now once I cobble together the appropriate funds, I will commence my training in the airbrush.
By the way, someone previously mentioned using a "wash" to detail their model.
Does "wash" refer to varnish/polish? And to detail the scribe lines, one takes a brush with light black, and dribbles it into the lines via capillary action?
And to keep this post alive, whats a good putty to use? I have/am using testor's putty, and it is near impossible to paint over, without color loss, or noticing the change in texture....How do you paint over it? Also, the putty cracks, and doesnt blend into the model, as much as I try to smooth it out....any advice?
Thank you for all of your support

Go Badger. I own a 200 and like it very much. It's a hybrid, which gives you the performance (sort of) of a double action in a single action airbrush. It's easy to clean and operate. Quality is top notch.

Get yourself a two gallon compressor at Wally World for peanuts and drown out the noise with some cheap earplugs.

You can get coupons to Michael's for 40% off the price of airbrushes. Good deal. Or try www.dixieart.com

Im glad you used the term "Long term modellers" and not "serious modellers" lol.....

I have 2 airbrushes, the VL( Im toying with getting rid of!) and My Omni 4000......Ive been getting plenty of time in with the Omni since I got it. The VL gets broken out on occasion but its becoming rare....

I agree with Musiccity, there is no such thing as a newbie brush.

I got a single action, Badger 200, first because I could afford it.

I have learned to use the brush over the last year, and the success I have had has encouraged me to buy a compressor. The 200 does about 95% of what I need an airbrush to do, but I am now looking to buy a Badger 100 or Omni4000 for that last 5%

I have always been under the impression that long term modellers have more than one airbrush, and each one often fulfils a specific purpose. So I guess, as long as you buy something decent, the usual suspects, Badger, Paasche, Iwata or Theyer & Chandler, I can't imagine you being too disapointed.

Karl

LMAO That was funny and informative Chris!

I agree go with a double action to learn on, thats what I did. Ive seen people who made the mistake of buying a single action as thier first airbrush try to step up to Double Action and expect thier experience to shine from all those years of using a Single Action boy were they suprised........Most got frustrated more than anything.

Double Action in the begining might sound like a bit much to chew off, but in the long run I think it will save you money. As most SA users want a DA eventually. All I can say is practice practice practice.

i own an omni 5000 and love it. if i were you, i would definetly purchase a double action atleast. whatever you get will require tons of practice and patience. you're gonna get frustrated, exasperated, at times elated, other times irritated and irate, but just dont hate, stay up late, practice til eight, dedicate, and one day it'll be well........cool. later

QUOTE: Originally posted by unnamedplayer ive had my eye on the vega 1000... and revolution cr

I have an older Vega 1000 which was made back when T&C still owned the company and it is a very good airbrush, but I prefer the larger cup and balance of the Omni 4000. In fact I put an Omni handle on both my Vega 1000 and Vega 2000. The Vega 1000 has a small 1/8 oz cup, but if you like that size then go for it, or better yet an Omni 5000 which is the same cup size but a little more refined in my opinion.

Mike

1 tip. avoid aztec except their a220

<subliminal message>
IWATA IWATA IWATA IWATA IWATA
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ive had my eye on the vega 1000... and revolution cr

First, understand that I am so green with an airbrush that I'd have to improve just to be bad. I've been using them off and on for several years (more off than on) so I am a little bit familiar with them.

QUOTE: (Must I get a newbie airbrush? I'd like to start off with something more advanced then a "recommended for a newb" brush)

Good, because there is no such thing as a "newb" brush. If you think you are going to take one home, hook it up, and start drawing perfect hair-width lines you are either very talented or you are going to be very disappointed (kinda like I was when I bought my first one). Airbrushes are like cars in some respects; there are no "Beginners" models. There are some with more bells and whistles, but they ALL depend on the abilities of the driver and not the car itself. Also, like cars, they take a good bit of practice to become proficient with.

There are probably some that are just plain junk, but a cheap airbrush in the hands of a proficient painter is going to turn out much better work than the best airbrush money can buy in the hands of a rookie like me. Get a good quality brush and learn how to use it.

There are several types of airbrushes; Single Action, Double, Action, Internal Mix, External Mix, Gravity Feed, Bottom Feed, and Side Feed. To see the differences check out this link: http://www.badgerairbrush.com/air101.htm

QUOTE: By the way, how do you fill in the panel lines on the model's surface? Do you airbrush light coat of black before applying main paints, or after the paint job is apllied?

Neither, that is typically done with "Washes" and not with an airbrush. There was a post just a few days ago about it, and there are plenty of posts about it. Here is the latest one I saw:
http://www.finescale.com/fsm/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13084

QUOTE: I saw a compressor at Kragen for only $80, and I saw an "official" compressor at my local hobbie shop for 180. What makes the "official" compressor so special? Does it have an airbrush standard set psi?

Again, I'm no expert so I may miss some things. Compressed air is compressed air but all compressors are not created equal. The primary difference between an $80 Kragen compressor and a $180 hobby compressor will probably be:

1) Noise. Good compressors for airbrushes are very quiet whereas the Kragen model probably isn't. I use a large shop compressor and it will drown out the TV when it kicks in.

2) Filtration. The Kragen model probably doesn't have a moisture trap and filter whereas the airbrush compressor probably does. Any time you compress air the moisture in it gets squeezed out. That moisture has to go somewhere and without a moisture trap it goes right out the end of your airbrush. The filter will also catch dust particles in the air before they get to your brush.

3) Pulsation. Diaphragm compressors frequently have a pulsed airflow that is not great for airbrush use. There needs to be some sort of reservoir to hold the air and smooth out those pulsations.

4) Pressure regulation. Depending on what the Kragen model is actually for you may not be able to regulate the air pressure. There are no standard set PSI values, you pick the pressure that works best for you, your brush, and the viscosity (thickness) of the paint you are using. A good compressor will have a regulator that allows you to adjust the pressure.

I won't comment on airbrush choices, way too much nonsense argued in their selection. Frankly any passable airbrush,well maintained, will perform better than the average painter will ever need.

On the matter of compressors, have a look at www.harborfreight.com for compressors. You need one with: a motor, air tank, pressure regulator, a moisture filter. Anything else is simply vanity asserting itself.

Randy

I'd still go with the Thayer & Chandler (Badger) Omni 4000. And with the left over money buy a lot of paint to play with.

my price range goes until $160
I saw a compressor at Kragen for only $80, and I saw an "official" compressor at my local hobbie shop for 180. What makes the "official" compressor so special?
Does it have an airbrush standard set psi?

What is your price range? What you want to do is ultimate spray paint consistently and controllably on a model. I use both Iwatas HP-C and HP-A ( both modified with larger nozzle and needle) and Thayer & Chandler (Badger) Omni 4000 and Nailaire. They all work very well and will keep even an advanced air brusher happy. Iwatas cost more, look slightly nicer, built with slightly tighter tolorences, and feel smoother but the bottom line is how your paint looks on the model. For larger spraying areas I use the T & C Omni 4000. The Omni will match the Iwata in sprayability.

I know I am new to airbrushing, but personally, I'm lookin for an airbrush that I can use for many more years, when doing more advanced models/painting technques. (Must I get a newbie airbrush? I'd like to start off with something more advanced then a "recommended for a newb" brush)
By the way, how do you fill in the panel lines on the model's surface?
Do you airbrush light coat of black before applying main paints, or after the paint job is apllied?

Buy an Iwata now and you'l never have to spend another dime on an airbrush.

Speaking only from limited personal experience I have have found the Badger 200 to be an excellent introduction to airbrushing as it is near enough idiot proof (Very important for me) and very easy to use.

I have used it on a variety of projects from the small, ie 1/72 WWII fighters, large 1/72 bombers, all without issue.

Welcome to the forum, and the best of luck with your airbrushing.

Karl

I'll skip the airbrush as there's been so many other posts regarding a first airbrush. There's many ways to do metalic finish. Alclad II is my favorite right now. You must use an airbrush to apply it. Best thing to do is to prime it with acrylic gloss black. You must make sure you don't have any scratches or else it will show right through on a metallic finish. Silver enamel is an easy color to brush on. It can be a pretty decent finish for brush painting.

Priming is not really necessary but for some colors you really need to prime. The metallic finish is one example. You should also prime if you are painting white or yellow. There's so many primers out there. An automotive primer is good. I like to use Floquil grey primer from their railroad color line.