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Metalizers

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  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Calgary, Canada
Metalizers
Posted by pilot47 on Thursday, October 14, 2010 2:07 PM

Hi all,

Just a quick question about metalizers.  I have never used them before and have seen great results by using them on aircraft.  So here's my question, do you have to mix metalizers with anything or apply them with certain technique, or are they like regular paints?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

 

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Thursday, October 14, 2010 2:28 PM

Are you referring to Testor's Metalizer paints? So many have use the term metalizers as a generic term for so many of the various brands of NMF paints.

Testor's Metalizers are ready straight from the bottle. You will have to seal them or find yourself cursing if you don't as they are delicate and easily damaged.

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Calgary, Canada
Posted by pilot47 on Thursday, October 14, 2010 4:28 PM

Yes I plan on using Testor's metalizers. 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, October 15, 2010 9:19 AM

I use Alclad.  It also is generally used straight from bottle.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Friday, October 15, 2010 9:47 AM

All of the above named metallizers need to be sprayed on, either from the rattlecan (Testors) or airbrushed. 

Testors comes in both rattle can and bottled liquid form, Alclad is liquid only.  They are both ready for airbrush use, and should not be thinned.

 Paint brushes don't work with them.

Testors metallizers need to be buffed with a cloth or paper towel shortly after they dry, to bring out the sheen.  No buffing for Alclad.

Use Testors metallizer sealer after buffing to your satisfaction.  Alclad does not need a sealer coat, and it will, in fact, dull the nice finish.

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by DoogsATX on Friday, October 15, 2010 10:13 AM

1) Metalizers are ready to go straight from the bottle

2) You don't have to mix them with anything, though some (like Testors) have to be sealed afterward.

3) Technique-wise, it seems like most metalizers go on best in light, misting coats built up in layers. 

Personally I prefer either Alclad or Talon to Testors, but everyone has their preferences...

On the Bench: 1/32 Trumpeter P-47 | 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G | 1/144 Eduard MiG-21MF x2

On Deck:  1/350 HMS Dreadnought

Blog/Completed Builds: doogsmodels.com

 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Friday, October 15, 2010 10:18 AM

Cadet Chuck
Testors metallizers need to be buffed with a cloth or paper towel shortly after they dry, to bring out the sheen.  No buffing for Alclad.

Note that not all of the Testors Metalizers are buffable. Some are not meant to be buffed after application and to do so with those may destroy the finish. Whether they are or are not buffable is indicated on the jar.

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Friday, October 15, 2010 2:45 PM

You are correct, sir!  I forgot to mention that- thanks for adding this information.

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Illinois
Posted by wjbwjb29 on Friday, October 15, 2010 5:08 PM

Hello;

Can you spray Alcad directly on the plastic without a primer?

 

Bill

On the Bench:   Trumperter Tsesarevich on deck Glencoe USS Oregon

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Friday, October 15, 2010 6:02 PM

There are those who do, but it is with risk due to Alclad being a lacquer based product. I guess if you want to spend all that money, time and effort to apply something that hot to bare plastic that could craze or even melt the plastic, go for it.

Me I prefer something else either enamel based. Hence the reason I acquired a company that produced just such a product. Then I went ahead and created an acrylic option too. But that's just my 2 cents.Geeked

 

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Saturday, October 16, 2010 12:01 AM

Note also that if you use a buffable metal finish (eg. Testors/MM buffable metalizer, Gunze Mr Metal Color or similar) your primer coat will affect the final sheen. If you want a highly polished metal finish, use a nice slick gloss primer. Use of a flat primer may cause your finish to look worn and pitted.

I've had a few test sprays with Gunze's Mr Metal Color range and I'm liking the results. They're a very fast drying acrylic formulation (dry and buffable in about 5 mins when applied lightly) but may not be readily available in some (ok, most) areas. I've only found one shop here in Sydney (Australia) which stocks them.

  • Member since
    June 2009
Posted by jimbot58 on Saturday, October 16, 2010 5:06 AM

MM metalizers look great but are very delicate to work with. They can not be masked very well, and sealer coat tends to affect the look of the natural metal finish. My attempt at a natural metal finish on a P-51D was a disappointment. I will try again someday with either Alclad or Hawkeye's products.

*******

On my workbench now:

It's all about classic cars now!

Why can't I find the "Any" key on my keyboard?

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Illinois
Posted by wjbwjb29 on Saturday, October 16, 2010 9:27 AM

I have the SNJ metalizer which I used on my F3F-1 and will use on my upcoming SBD-1. I just asked about Alcad because there is a lot of coflicting info out there about how to use it. I like the SNJ product very much. The MM product is very fragile even with the sealer applyed.

 

Bill

On the Bench:   Trumperter Tsesarevich on deck Glencoe USS Oregon

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, October 16, 2010 9:27 AM

wjbwjb29

Hello;

Can you spray Alcad directly on the plastic without a primer?

 

Bill

I wouldn't advise it.  Alclad depends upon the base it is applied over much more than normal paints. It is intended to be used over a very glossy black.  Anything else destroys the sheen.  The gloss black coat must be flawless.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: Windy city, US
Posted by keilau on Saturday, October 16, 2010 10:53 AM

HawkeyeHobbies

There are those who do, but it is with risk due to Alclad being a lacquer based product. I guess if you want to spend all that money, time and effort to apply something that hot to bare plastic that could craze or even melt the plastic, go for it.

Me I prefer something else either enamel based. Hence the reason I acquired a company that produced just such a product. Then I went ahead and created an acrylic option too. But that's just my 2 cents.Geeked

The Hawkeye product is a very good compromise for weekend modelers in term of ease of use, robustness and finish look. There may be better NMF product such as Alclad-II for more dedicated modelers. I have not tried it myself. 

I tried Talon, like it and stick with it. I still use MM and Tamiya spray can occasionally.

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Saturday, October 16, 2010 10:46 PM

I have recently applied, with airbrush,  Alclad polished alumium directly on a black plastic polysteyrene surface, no primer or gloss enamel paint, the result was a wonderful bright metal finish.  No sealer necessary over it.

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

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