How to airbrush over canopies and window on my Heinkel He111

I usually shoot those kind of  window areas before I install the window and assemble the fuselage halves... Then I can just slap a piece of masking tape over the window and a small area surrounding it and not worry about having it be precisely cut... Then when I have finished the final color coat, I just pull the tape off, and there's the color, right up to the window's edge and it's still attached to the plane... I also, now and again, cut a piece of tape that's just a tiny bit bigger than window, and then touch-up around it with a brush after painting the model.. Keep it tight, no more than a sixteenth of an inch bigger, less if you can...

 For flat windows, I leave them out altogether and use either Testor's Clear Parts Cement or Micro's Krystal Kleer (preferred) to make the new ones...  In a pinch, Elmer's White Glue will work too..

Phil_H

 

Don Stauffer:

One emergency fix if you push a window in and it is not too large- use Micro glaze to make a "replacement window."  You will still have a piece of plastic rattling around inside the model, but the microglaze at least covers the hole. I have used Micro Glaze to make windows as large as quarter inch square

 

 

 

This is fine for windows on a flat panel, but if the window is curved, it's not quite as effective, as the surface tension in the fluid (which helps form the "window" in the first place) tends to pull it flat before it dries Hanging it in a position where gravity will pull the liquid down (outwards) may help, but it does shrink somewhat as it dries and will pull back..

Yep- it works well on most airliner windows or other side windows.  Not so good for curved windows.

Don Stauffer

One emergency fix if you push a window in and it is not too large- use Micro glaze to make a "replacement window."  You will still have a piece of plastic rattling around inside the model, but the microglaze at least covers the hole. I have used Micro Glaze to make windows as large as quarter inch square

This is fine for windows on a flat panel, but if the window is curved, it's not quite as effective, as the surface tension in the fluid (which helps form the "window" in the first place) tends to pull it flat before it dries Hanging it in a position where gravity will pull the liquid down (outwards) may help, but it does shrink somewhat as it dries and will pull back..

I have indeed pushed in cabin windows when masking.  Now I glue such windows in with epoxy.  Doesn't fog transparent windows and it is stronger than many other adhesives.  I have tried liquid masks, and then pushed the windows in removing the stuff (it can be hard to remove).  I have done the masking before gluing fuselage together and indeed that helps, though you still are at risk during later operations, so I use the strongest adhesive I can find.

One emergency fix if you push a window in and it is not too large- use Micro glaze to make a "replacement window."  You will still have a piece of plastic rattling around inside the model, but the microglaze at least covers the hole. I have used Micro Glaze to make windows as large as quarter inch square.

If you're worried about the fuselage windows, a liquid mask may ne the best bet as you won't apply any pressure to them when you apply it. Be aware that some liquid masks, Humbrol Maskol and Gunze's Masking Sol Neo, will attack an acrylic base if laid on too heavily, so if your clear parts have been dipped in Future, it may etch through it. Shouldn't be a problem if you lay down a light coating though.

Next time you might try masking the windows before you assemble the fuselage.  That way you could support them from the back side.  Right now all I can think of is some sort of liquid mask.  Others may have better ideas.

Don