Bare metal foil for Canopy masking

A lot of times I find a little burr right on the tip of an Xacto blade(or other brand). May only be on one side but it can be enough to tear foil instead of cut. I've had a hard Arkansas sharpening stone for ages so I usually make a few passes on it with a blade I'm going to cut foil with. If you drag the blade backwards across your fingernail you'll feel if there's a burr. If you don't have a stone you can get by with some fine sandpaper. Like 1000, 1500 or 2000 grit. Wet the paper with a couple drops of water or a drop of oil. If you use sandpaper I think it's easier if you drag the blade backwards instead of pushing forward and finish with a light pass or two on each side going forward. Drag it across your fingernail and if there's still any burr then drag it across a piece of leather like a straight razor. Takes longer to describe than to do it.

If there's no burr then maybe burnish the foil down a little more before cutting or lower the angle of your knife a bit. Just enough so you're on the cutting edge instead of the very tip.

Tony

Thanks Tony, I never thought of the burr issue and lowering the angle makes complete sense when you think about it.

ICIT

It can also be difficult to remove the masking residue when you peel away the foil after painting is done. I'm loving the Eduard masks, more selection is always on the increase. Other than that liquid masking.

You must start with a brand new blade.  When using as covering for a model I may go through a couple of blades, but have never had to change one when masking a canopy.  But... If there is a lot of cutting or a very complicated canopy you may even have to change blades during masking.  The knife MUST be sharp.

Try using aluminum duct tape.. It's self-adhesive, comes in rolls far cheaper than Bare-Metal Foil, and won't tear near as easy, since it's much thicker... Any residue left will come off with a wood toothpick or you can use a product called "Goo-Gone".. I use the stuff for seatbelts and harnesses too..

Masking canopies completely, however, that ain't my thing.. I use Post-It! notes along a few edges and free-hand the frames...  When that paint's dry, I move on to another area of the canopy and free-hand that..

One other thing abut masking.. DON'T leave it on for very long after you paint.. You want it off as quickly as possible after you paint, or you'll just increase residue issues, and can even peel the paint off frames you just spent two hours masking..

Hans von Hammer

Masking canopies completely, however, that ain't my thing.. I use Post-It! notes along a few edges and free-hand the frames...  When that paint's dry, I move on to another area of the canopy and free-hand that..

I'm doing a model now that way using Tamiya masking tape. It is working well, but taking forever!  This is a Martin B-10, golden age period. It has TWO canopies, and each one has very complex frames.  Further, the color is gloss blue enamel.  Gloss, of course, takes a lot longer to dry than flats.  The canopies are looking great, but boy, is this taking a long time!

You might try setting your canopy on a block under a light bulb to speed up drying time, Don..  I use my bench's lamp for that a lot.. Just be sure not to get it TOO close...