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Pre shading

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  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Reading, Berkshire, United Kingdom
Posted by redleader on Thursday, December 23, 2010 1:27 PM

Hi BGuy,

Thanks for your response, I think I'll start with some of the more basic techniques to start with as suggested, on some cheaper kits first. I'll put forward my first effort for entry into the gallery when done. Wish me luck !.

Red leader signing out...

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Reading, Berkshire, United Kingdom
Posted by redleader on Thursday, December 23, 2010 1:23 PM

Hi Tom,

Thanks for your reply, I've seen the promodeller site already so I know why you recommended it, thanks.

Merry Christmas to you to.

Red leader signing out...

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: Toronto
Posted by BGuy on Wednesday, December 22, 2010 4:18 PM

There's also the riskier (but increasingly fashionable, I understand) practice of POST-shading, where one rather nerve-wrackingly does shading in a similar manner, but after the base coat is laid.  I think I saw an FSM article about that topic relatively recently, (i.e. past couple of years).

  • Member since
    June 2010
Posted by montague on Wednesday, December 22, 2010 4:14 PM

Hi!

 

Go to www.promodeller.com and look through some of the free build stuff and you should run across a really good example to use. You can search promodellers on you tube also and find Phil Flory's pre shading and paintig videos. Good stuff!

 

Merry Christmas!

 

Tom

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Reading, Berkshire, United Kingdom
Posted by redleader on Wednesday, December 22, 2010 2:50 AM

Hi Phil H,

Thanks for your suggestions and also your 'Tempura' recipes.  I've asked SuppressionFire what is the best method of applying the batter to the kit, as I find it clogs up the airbrush !

 

Thanks again.

Red leader signing out...

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Reading, Berkshire, United Kingdom
Posted by redleader on Wednesday, December 22, 2010 2:46 AM

Hi again,

Thanks for your recommendations, oh and your 'Tempura' recipes. Whats the best way to apply the batter to the kit as I find it clogs up the airbrush ! or should I thin it ?.

Seriously..thanks once again for the info.

Red leader signing out...

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Tuesday, December 21, 2010 6:29 AM

SuppressionFire
Nothing highlights panel lines like Tempura battered deep fried models! Mmm crispyEats

O/T

Tempura might work well with Trumpeter's KV-II with its infamous "quick fried tower" Chef Eats

Back to regular programming Cool

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Truro Nova Scotia, Canada
Posted by SuppressionFire on Tuesday, December 21, 2010 6:15 AM

Nothing highlights panel lines like Tempura battered deep fried models! Mmm crispyEats

Ditto Agreed with the white pre shading.

Best to experiment on scrap plastic any new technique before committing to a expensive model. Besides pre & post panel shading / washes are advanced techniques. For your first few models stick to the basics of clean assembly & paint. Do try one new technique each build and you will see improvement every build completed.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y211/razordws/GB%20Badges/WMIIIGBsmall.jpg

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Tuesday, December 21, 2010 6:05 AM

SuppressionFire

FSM has ran articles using 'Tempura' temporary poster paints (kids washable paint) This works well as mistakes are easily washed off.

I think you mean Tempera. Tempura is batter for fried food... Stick out tongue

I once tried preshading under white with a  medium grey paint and it didn't work too well. It just made the white look dirty and then by the time I had applied sufficient coats of white to make it white again, it had obliterated all traces of the preshading.

Preshading under greys can be interesting. The colour you use can alter the tone of the grey, making it warmer (eg. using browns) or cooler (blues/darker blue-greys) - it really depends what effect you wish to achieve.

Try out different colours on something expendable and see what you prefer. There are no real hard rules.

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Truro Nova Scotia, Canada
Posted by SuppressionFire on Tuesday, December 21, 2010 5:48 AM

redleader,

Good to hear you are back & building models again!

Each color you mentioned would need a different approach, usually when white is used it is sprayed first then the next lightest color. What you could try is a dark gray or flat black panel line wash before adding base coat colors. If sprayed with a air brush this will show in the white and the next lightest color. After the decals are on and a clear gloss has cured / sealed them you can highlight the darker colors with a wash targeting the panel lines. FSM has ran articles using 'Tempura' temporary poster paints (kids washable paint) This works well as mistakes are easily washed off.

Usually 'show' aircraft like the one in your avatar are so clean & polished that modelers do not fuss with highlighting panel lines as the gloss paint highlights them.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y211/razordws/GB%20Badges/WMIIIGBsmall.jpg

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Reading, Berkshire, United Kingdom
Pre shading
Posted by redleader on Tuesday, December 21, 2010 1:49 AM

Hi,

I'm getting back into modeling after many decades of wasted time so I've got a lot of catching up to do, to get up to speed with some of the techniques used with great effect these days.

I'm reading and hearing a lot about pre-shading, as I understand it's a technique to give depth to detail panel lines when finished.

I would be grateful for any tips or nono's also suggestions for which colours to pre-shade with for aircraft finished in the following colours; White, Grey, Red, 'Blue Angel' Blue and Olive drab.

Thanks....Red Leader signing out...

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