Tips for using a compressor?

Snacko911

Hi,

I just also bought this compressor, and it looks very nice, except the manual sucks big-time.

The power switch has two 'On' settings like this: I O II, where O is off.  Can anyone tell me the difference between the two On settings?  I turned it on the first On setting 'I' and it ran for about 1min and shut off, and automatically restarted again after I pulled the ring to let out air.  The second On setting 'II' ran for several minutes and never shut off.

I just got it today, and don't have my airbrush yet (it's in the mail), and they sent me the wrong air hose.  So, I can't really test it yet, but I was trying to figure it out a little bit.

You did not mentioned which compressor you got. But it definitely is the type with an auto-on-off feature. It is a good function for better compressor that helps reduce the wear and tear of the motor.

You should use it with the "1" on position which activiates the auto-on-off feature.

Hi,

I just also bought this compressor, and it looks very nice, except the manual sucks big-time.

The power switch has two 'On' settings like this: I O II, where O is off.  Can anyone tell me the difference between the two On settings?  I turned it on the first On setting 'I' and it ran for about 1min and shut off, and automatically restarted again after I pulled the ring to let out air.  The second On setting 'II' ran for several minutes and never shut off.

I just got it today, and don't have my airbrush yet (it's in the mail), and they sent me the wrong air hose.  So, I can't really test it yet, but I was trying to figure it out a little bit.

Matt575

One side thing, I have one tiny leak in between the water trap/pressure gauge, and the air tank, and teflon tape cant seem to get the entire thing. The water trap is turned as much as it will go, and teflon tape has been applied. I have heard about using bee's wax with teflon tape, have you guys heard anything about that? Also, does it really matter if the water trap itself isn't pointed toward the ground, its more on it's side actually..

The water trap bowl should be pointing downwards, or pretty close to it. With regards the bad seal, I would strip it & re-apply tape, dont be shy in how much tape you wrap onto the threads - get plenty on & wrap it more thickly towards the inner edge of the thread, so that it gets thicker the further in you screw it.

Thanks for all the help! I have pretty much all the leaks sorted out, and everything is running smoothley. Someone asked about the psi, it runs great at 25 psi down to 5 psi, i havent done anything with it above 25 if your wondering..

One side thing, I have one tiny leak in between the water trap/pressure gauge, and the air tank, and teflon tape cant seem to get the entire thing. The water trap is turned as much as it will go, and teflon tape has been applied. I have heard about using bee's wax with teflon tape, have you guys heard anything about that? Also, does it really matter if the water trap itself isn't pointed toward the ground, its more on it's side actually..

Matt575

If you look at the TCP global picture of the TC-196, there is a red cap on the tank with a little ring around it, is that what i would need to pull to get the air out? There is something on the bottom, but that doesn't look like it's suppose to be un-done.  

The thing with the metal pull ring is the pressure relief valve, this should operate automatically if for some reason the compressor over pressurizes the tank, the metal ring can also be pulled to discharge your receiver (air tank) when you are finished, although this is not the best way to do it.

You should find that the fitting at the bottom of the tank is the tank drain screw, which is usually a knurled thumb screw with a rubber gasket fitted internally. A 1/2 turn of this should be sufficient to allow the air to be expelled from the receiver, pushing any water out as the air is expelled - you should not attempt to completely  removed the drain plug when the receiver is pressurized, as it will be well & truly blown out, a 1/2 turn should be fine. This is how you should depressurize your unit at the end of a shift, expelling air & water in one operation.

With regards to emptying water from the trap on your regulator, you will most likely not have to do this very often as compressors fitted with receivers leave most moisture in the receiver. Do not use your regulators water trap as a indication of how much water is in the receiver, the receiver will inevitably have a higher water content.

I think that the fitting at the bottom of the receiver must be overtightened if it cant be removed by hand, you should maybe try some careful persuasion with pliers / grips to initially loosen it - I say this as it seems unlikely that there is no receiver drain - if there was no receiver drain you would have no way of removing the collected moisture from the bottom of the tank, this would result in it slowly filling up with water & corroding from the inside out. 

Matt575

Thank you for all the help, i hope i can start airbrushing today, been out of town the last day. If you look at the TCP global picture of the TC-196, there is a red cap on the tank with a little ring around it, is that what i would need to pull to get the air out?

Yes, pull on the little ring to release pressure when you are done. It make loud hiss which may sound scary the first time. It is ok.

Matt575

There is something on the bottom, but that doesn't look like it's suppose to be un-done. From reading on the Iwata website, i have figured out how to release the water from the trap, but when i release the air, will that release the excess water in the tank?

There may be water trapped in the airtank. You need to get them out to prevent the tank getting rusty prematurally. If you are not living in a humind region, it is enough to do it every month or so. The regulator and moisture trap combo traps water in the air hose. If your unit is like mine, there is a little spring loaded metallic plunge at the bottom of the transparent dome. Push it in to blow out the water whenever you see some in the dome. (My house is air conditioned the whole summer. I seldomly have to do either operation.)

If you are not sure how humind it is, try to drain the tank water after each session at the beginning. If you don't see much water coming out, you can reduce the time doing it.

Matt575

Last thing, i have a roll of teflon tape that came with the compressor, what are some of the key areas that you guys would reccomend taping?

See Wingman_kz's reply. Good luck with your new toy.

Not certain but that part with the red cap is probably the pressure relief valve. For safety to keep the compressor from over pressurizing the tank. It would pop open if the tank goes over a certain PSI. Mine lets go about 115 - 120 psi. I think the specs on yours said 85 psi. The drain should be on the bottom. A thumbscrew or a little T handle. May not be though, there may just be a plug. If so, then you could bleed off the air with either the regulator or the relief valve and then pull the plug to drain any water. If there is just a plug in it you could replace it with a drain valve. Should be able to get one at a hardware store.

That roll of tape is in case you have a leak. Or if you have to pull a plug to drain water. Don't tear everything apart and tape it up.

Tony

You should use the teflon tape on any connection where a threaded connector or pipe is threaded into something.  Pipe Joints, where the nipple pipe(s) join to the regulator etc.

Matt575

Thank you for all the help, i hope i can start airbrushing today, been out of town the last day. If you look at the TCP global picture of the TC-196, there is a red cap on the tank with a little ring around it, is that what i would need to pull to get the air out? There is something on the bottom, but that doesn't look like it's suppose to be un-done. From reading on the Iwata website, i have figured out how to release the water from the trap, but when i release the air, will that release the excess water in the tank?

Last thing, i have a roll of teflon tape that came with the compressor, what are some of the key areas that you guys would reccomend taping?

 

Thank you for all the help, i hope i can start airbrushing today, been out of town the last day. If you look at the TCP global picture of the TC-196, there is a red cap on the tank with a little ring around it, is that what i would need to pull to get the air out? There is something on the bottom, but that doesn't look like it's suppose to be un-done. From reading on the Iwata website, i have figured out how to release the water from the trap, but when i release the air, will that release the excess water in the tank?

Last thing, i have a roll of teflon tape that came with the compressor, what are some of the key areas that you guys would reccomend taping?

Sparrowhyperion

Nice unit.  What's the max PSI and cfm on it? Just curious..

Rich

The spec at TCP Global said "35 Ltrs/Min or 1.5 CFM@60PSI". This is probably a little inflated and not practical.

Comparing similar units by other respectable brand such as the Iwata Power Jet or the Sparmax TC-5000. Typical performance of this type of twin piston compressor is likely to be in the 1.1 CFM@35PSI range. The max pressure is usually at 80-90 psi. They can support 2 airbrushes at the same time.

I have a Paasche DA400 (the old model made by Sparmax). It can run 0.7 CFM@55PSI continuously. It reaches 93 PSI at no flow.

Nice unit.  What's the max PSI and cfm on it? Just curious..

Rich

Sparrowhyperion

Don Stauffer:

I am not that familiar with that particular compressor- does it have a pressure adjustment?  If not, add one.  Even if it does, you may want to add an outboard combination pressure regulator-gauge- water trap-filter unit.  I find pressures in the range of 15-20 psi best.  The ability to set the pressure you want is a big improvement over a can.

Yeh, those combo regulators are great.  You can get them for under $20 on eBay too.  You may need a nippple extension pipe though, Depending on how your compressor and tank is constructed, the water trap may not clear the tank without one.  I use a 4" which is perfect. 1/4" NPT on both ends.  Make sure to also use a reasonable amount of Teflon Tape if you add things like the extension and regulator combo.  I usually use 3 or 4 wraps around the pipe ends and it works fine.  Good luck and happy brushing. lol

Rich

The TC-196 is a version of the Fenghua Bida AS-196 compressor. TCP Global may not stock the latest configuration. But it should look somewhat like this:

I don't see any reason to get another regulator/moisture filter unit. It comes with its own.

Yeh, those combo regulators are great.  You can get them for under $20 on eBay too.  You may need a nippple extension pipe though, Depending on how your compressor and tank is constructed, the water trap may not clear the tank without one.  I use a 4" which is perfect. 1/4" NPT on both ends.  Make sure to also use a reasonable amount of Teflon Tape if you add things like the extension and regulator combo.  I usually use 3 or 4 wraps around the pipe ends and it works fine.  Good luck and happy brushing. lol

Rich

Don Stauffer

I am not that familiar with that particular compressor- does it have a pressure adjustment?  If not, add one.  Even if it does, you may want to add an outboard combination pressure regulator-gauge- water trap-filter unit.  I find pressures in the range of 15-20 psi best.  The ability to set the pressure you want is a big improvement over a can.

I am not that familiar with that particular compressor- does it have a pressure adjustment?  If not, add one.  Even if it does, you may want to add an outboard combination pressure regulator-gauge- water trap-filter unit.  I find pressures in the range of 15-20 psi best.  The ability to set the pressure you want is a big improvement over a can.

The specs say if you're running it in Auto that it will turn on when pressure in the tank drops below 35psi and shut off when it reaches 60psi so it's going to turn on and off frequently while you're spraying. With twin pistons it shouldn't take long to build 25psi in a 4 liter tank. I'd take it easy on it at first to let it break in and then I wouldn't worry about it. It's going to generate heat, there's no way around that, just don't let it get too hot in those marathon paint sessions. Since now, you're never going to run out of air.

I don't drain mine every time I use it. I use a 3 gallon tank with a small Iwata compressor and I drain it once a month. In the summer there will be a little water in the tank but in the winter it's usually no more than a couple drops. That's up to you. That compressor shouldn't take long to refill.

Have fun and shoot some paint...

Tony

PS...And if you don't mind, let us know how you like it and how it's working for you.

Matt575

So i just recieved my first compressor from Fedex, what i ordered was a TCP global compressor, the TC-196, double piston with an air tank. I have never used a compressor, just canned air, so this is a big step up for me. Can anyone offer me some general tips on maintence and safety with it?

If your TC-196 manual is similar to other TCP Global manual I've seen. It is absolutely useless. Go the Iwata or the Silentaire web site. Download one of their small compressor with tank manual. Does not matter which one. It will be very useful to you.

Matt575

1. Should i release the extra air from the tank after each session of painting? How would i go about releasing the air?

Yes, after each session, you should release the tank pressure. The pressure release valve usually is a small brass color plug with a silver ring near the bottom of the tank. Just pull on it untill all air is out. You should also drain all the water from the tank. The drain plug is also near the bottom of the tank and has something (a bnob or a handle) that you can turn in onto the tank. Return the drain valve to original position after you are done. Most of the time, you should not see too much water unless you live in subtropical climate.

Matt575

2. On the "manual" it says that it shouldn't be running any longer than 10 minutes? Will anything really happen if it go's over that? But, i guess that's one of the reasons I got one with a tank...

The compressor has an auto-on-off switch. It should take only 1.5-3 minutes to fill your one-gallon tank. If the motor does not stop after 3 minutes, it is an indication that you may have a leak somewhere. Check for leak. Test the compressor by running it for 10 minutes or longer, the cylinder head should get warm, but not hot to the touch of your hand. If it gets hot to the touch, it may be defective.

Matt575

3. About how long will a 4 leter tank last before the compressor kicks on again?

Sorry but before i did anything i thought i would check with some people that actually have expierence with it

Thanks! I can't waite to get underway!

Depending on your airbrush and how you paint, the full airtank should last 1 to 5 minutes before the motor kicks on again. Hook up your airbrush, pull the trigger all the way back and down and hold. Measure how long does it take to get the motor on again. This will be your worst case scenario.

Today's airbrush compressor are pretty robust. Don't be afraid to try it. Don't put it inside an enclosure of a hole with no ventilation. Watch out for noisy or hot compressor. Contact TCP Global for a service return should it happens in normal operation.

I don't have a TCP compressor. I am just talking about generic usage of small compressors. Good luck.