smooth paint help

thx everybody for the help, i'll let you know how i solved my problem:)

That is very true, but I went through several brushes learning how to clean them properly before I began moving up in quality. And you can still get good results with regular nylon ones that don't cost $25 each.

Usually thick, flat and dense looking brushes turn out good. It's the course ones with bristles sticking out to the sides that give you trouble .

Whichever brand of paint you end up using, good quality brushes are important for a good finish. I use acrylics almost exclusively and use sable artists brushes. Look for brushes with a good point and good "spring". Don't even think about those "dollar store" brushes that come 10 per card for $2.00 - they are almost guaranteed to leave a streaky finish, sometimes interspersed with bristles that have come loose.

Spend a bit more on your brushes and look after them and they will serve you well for many years.

Hmmm, I notice the last time I replied to you I also suggested MM acrylic... hmmm. Guess I should stop mentioning that so much .

Anyway, do let us know how the results turn out.

I belong to four modeling clubs in my area, so know a lot of modelers.  Only two that I know can do a really smooth job of hand brush painting. I think it takes even more skill and practice than airbrushing.  Experiment a lot, try different thinning ratios, and different brands of brushes.  Try multiple thin coats sanding between coats.  BTW, I can't do it, these are recommendations from guys who can, as relayed to me. I am in awe of people who can do this.

-Thin with mineral spirits for humbrol enamel. What you want is to have the paint flow across the surface and level out after a brush stroke. If it's too thick it will leave ridges. Multiple coats are required.

-Never use straight from the bottle, even if you don't need to thin it.

-The larger the surface is the large the paint brush should be. This reduces brush stroke marks.

-If you have a spot with raised paint lines you can sand it down with a very fine grit sand paper/stick.

-When finished you will still be able to see the brush marks but a top layer of Dull Coat (a clear coat that makes the finish look duller) will remove these lines. I have not done much myself with gloss coats.

I never found a need to prime plastic models when using humbrol enamel, but if you do I suggest Tamiya Fine Surface Primer or a good automotive primer.

Also for future reference, I find Model Master acrylic (thins with water, clean up with soapy water & maybe isopropyl alcohol) paint next best alternative to humbrol enamel if you don't want the fumes.

Primer paints are intended to be used as a first layer. They adhere to the surface better (plastic, metal etc.) but are generally rougher than a finish coat, and are available in a limited amount of colours, generally grays. Once the primer coat is on your surface, your finish colours will be easier to deal with compared to just applying directly to your model.

what do u mean primer. can u explain me a little bit more pls? sorry am new at this

Thinning your paint will help a lot. You have to remember that gloss paint will always show up marks more due to its shiney finish so maybe move to a matt paint if you can. Look at your brushs too, wider flat ended brushes will put a wider area down better than a round brush.

You dont say if you use primer this will help and you can use an automotive one from a rattle can to do this, its what a lot use and its pretty cheap to.  FSM did a painting special a few months back and there is a good tutorial in there for brush painters.

Hope all that helps

Pmitch

Are you painting right out of the bottle?  You may have to thin your paint a bit to get more of a flow off your brush.