Using a Paasche H single action airbrush

The problem is it's single action instead of double action.

Single action needs enough air flow to suck the paint into the stream making it a nothing or everything device  where double action allows you  to regulate both the air and the flow of medium.

Top (gravity) fed AB do this with less effort than a side or bottom fed AB since the medium doesn't need to be pulled up into the air flow.

My first AB that I still have somewhere was the old $10 Testors with the jar on the bottom, aside from making a decent flame thrower all it did was blast paint everywhere, it was ok for an over all base coating but nothing else.

I use the Paasche H. The only tip I use is the #1, its smaller and allows for finer lines, and if I open up the nozzle I can get excellent coverage.  If you are getting puddles, try closing the nozzle, moving the brush farther away or changing the air pressure. I always have to fiddle with it a bit to get the right combination, but once i do, it sprays very well.

Another factor may be the paint you are using. I do not have experience with Vallejo, I use Model Master paints.

OWL

You should be able to get an excellent coat of paint with a Paasche H.  It is very popular with the guys who build cars.  Check out this page and you can see some freehand camo on a 1:72 spitfire done with an H.  A double action airbrush would just add one more variable for you to learn to control.  Try cranking the air pressure up to 25 or 30psi and practice on some empty bottles until you get a feel for it.  The adjustment on the H is very sensitive.  Make tiny changes.  You may have some junk in the nozzle.  There is more info on the H on my website.

Don

Yeah, there can be a fine line between nothing and "whoah boy!" when it comes to the Paasche H, but in this case I think it's your paint. Or rather, your thinner.

When I first started playing with Vallejo (Model Color...never used Model Air), I tried thinning it with water. And it sprayed like water, pooling and running absurdly quickly, even with the control of a solid double-action brush.

There's actually a long thread about it from last August or September as I was trying to get Vallejo and Lifecolor to airbrush effectively.

Someone ultimately suggested using Future to thin Vallejo at a ratio of approximately 1:1. Tried it and it sprayed AMAZINGLY well. 

You may also want to make sure all your pathways are clear...needle, tip, siphon...just in case.

Zach: I 've been using my Paasche for over 30 years with no probluems I've never had the probluem your having. Try using less thinner and less pressure sounds like you may have paint to thin with to much air pressure this will make your paint puddle. I don't use Vallejo paint I use MM, Tamyia and poly Scale so I can't say if the probluem is the thinner but try less thinner see what happens. If this probluem persists pm me let me know your paint to thinner ratio.                  on bench Trumpater 1/32 F4F-3 Wildcat ACESES5                      

Thanks everyone for all your help! I tried using Future as thinner and switched to #1 tip head and it works like a charm. My models have never looked so good!

does future also work for Testors paints?

Future is used as a base for gloss coat for decalling. I never use Future as thinner.

My recommendation for you (since you're a beginner using an airbrush) is use Testors brand thinner. The last thing you want is a mess on your hands you can't fix. 

If your "Testors" is enamel, use their thinner.

If your "Testors" is acrylic, it's pre-thinned. But you can try their acrylic thinner.

I agree - it's the paint here.  I had a similar experience using model color for the first time last month and was really frustrated.  Acrylics in general dry so fast the muck up the tip.  I avoid them, but the really have the best dead flat.

I use acrylics a lot and I have had no issues with tips drying up. You've just got to learn by trial and error on what works best and what doesn't. The paint : thinner ratio is different than enamels.

Most folks are so used to enamels, they just don't know how to work with acrylics. I agree, acrylics is a whole different animal. So many complaints/dislikes are abound - they're hard to work with, dries too fast, etc... The key is use the acrylic paint brand thinner. When I use Model Master acrylics, I use Testors Universal acrylic thinner. Same thing with Tamiya's acrylics - I use Tamiya brand thinner. I don't bother with the cheap subsitution for thinner. 

Do remember this: no two acrylic paint brands are alike. Mission Model paints are being touted the best line of acrylics out there.

I purchased the model color thinner when I bought the paint.  I can only assume it's a thinner for brush painting as it was a really thick consistancey.

I'd like to see a sticky page of best practices for types and brands of paints - would be very helpful.

JJFlyer

does future also work for Testors paints?

 

Yes, you can mix it in with Testors Acrylic or Tamiya paints for airbrushing. I have done it with both brands.