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Sotar 2020 Help

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  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Beavercreek, Ohio
Sotar 2020 Help
Posted by Wrinkledm on Wednesday, February 23, 2011 6:31 PM

I treated myself to a new airbrush this christmas and its only been today where I decided to make the switch to try the Sotar. Usually I have just time for a quick shot or two and for that I've been still using my Badger 360. Since the wife is out for the evening I thought I'd take a little time and try it out.  

Now, for the problem.   I hooked up the Sotar to the air compressor and  at my normal 10 - 12 PSi there is next to NO air coming out of the nozzle.  For giggles I put in a little thinner and it just sprays out an anemic spatter and drizzle of thinner.  I then try 26psi and I didn't see much improvement.  Is the airflow supposed to be that low or is there something resticting the airflow through the brush.  Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.

 

Dave

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Virginia
Posted by Wingman_kz on Thursday, February 24, 2011 2:12 AM

No, that isn't normal. The manual says that Sotars are test sprayed after assembly and that there may be some paint residue left in the brush. Maybe that's the problem. I'd pull the needle and then tear the front of the brush apart and see what I find. Take a look at the manual and you'll see how it comes apart. The regulator screws off and there's a hold down ring for the tip/nozzle. After you take those off the tip will drop out. The tip is tiny so you may want to hold the brush with the tip pointing straight up when you take it apart and lay a rag or paper towel on your bench so if you drop the tip it doesn't bounce or roll off somewhere. Then you can use the little wrench to loosen the head assembly and take it off. There's a teflon washer on the backside of the head but it may stick to the front of the brush body. Don't loose it.

Once you get it apart take a look at all the little holes in the regulator, hold down and head. Something may be blocking air flow there. If you look at the front of the airbrush body you'll see a smaller hole below the one the head screws into. That's the air passage. Hook the brush back to the compressor and push the trigger down to see what kind of air flow you're getting. Might want to hold a rag or paper towel or something in front of it to catch anything that may blow out. At least then you could see what it was. There's no parts that will come out but maybe there's a chip or something in there stopping things up.

If airflow is good there then put the head of the brush back together one part at a time and blow some air though to see what happens. But don't set the tip/nozzle in and blow air, screw the hold down ring on first.

If you don't have good airflow with the head and everything off the front of the brush then there's either something stuck in that air passage or there's a problem with the airvalve. You could run a piece of stiff wire (or a small brush if you have one) down that passage and see if there's anything blocking it. Just don't force anything and be gentle with it. That passage ends at the airvalve. The next step is to remove the air valve and take it apart. It might be easier if you take off the finger rest first, there's a little setscrew in the back of it. Loosen it and the finger rest will slip off. The airvalve will probably be tight and you may need a pair of pliers to loosen it. If you clamp down on that little knurled ring on the valve with a pair of pliers you'll proabably mess it up so wrap a piece of leather or rubber around it and then apply the pliers. It won't be real tight but probably enough that you can't loosen it with your fingers.

After you get it off hold the brush upside down and run your wire or whatever into the air passage from the front of the brush again. You should be able to see it when it comes into the hole you took the airvalve out of. If you didn't find anything in that passage you can take the airvalve apart. If you look at it from the bottom where the hose screws on you'll see that the plug in the bottom of it has a hex shaped opening and you can use a small allen wrench to screw that out. There's a spring inside so it will be putting pressure on that plug. Take care when you screw it out that nothing flys away. Once you get the plug out the spring will come out and so will the plunger and o-ring. Check the hole or holes in the body of the valve. If there's nothing in there that isn't supposed to be and the o-ring is in good shape then I don't know what may be wrong. If you do take the airvalve apart it may be easier to take it apart first and then screw the airvalve body out of the airbrush.

Chances are, you'll either find something in the head of the brush or in that air passage in the body. The only other thing I can think of is if there is a gasket or seal in the fitting on your airhose that screws onto the airbrush and it's blocking air. Seems to me that there's a little cork gasket in there in some hoses. Maybe it's come apart or out of place.

Or, you could contact Badger and tell them what's going on. I'm sure they'll help you out. The Sotar is a fine little brush and should spray even below 10psi. I've used mine at 5.

Tony

 

PS...Be careful with the needle, it's delicate. Doesn't take much to bend the tip of it.

            

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Beavercreek, Ohio
Posted by Wrinkledm on Thursday, February 24, 2011 3:55 PM

Wingman,

 

 Thanks very much for your detailed reply.  To make a long story short I read through your note and during disassembly I found nothing that really stood out as the problem. (I did drop the tip in the carpet and for about 10 minutes used most every 4 letter word I know of.)  Out of desperation, I finally discovered the problem and it lies with the spray regulator.  I had put the "fingered" regulator tip on the brush before I used it the first time and there is apparently something amiss with that piece. As best as I can tell its the FINE sized unit and when you place it over a medium tip it completely or nearly completely seals off the the airflow around the tip.  When I placed the standard spray regulator on the brush and it seems to spray very well or as I would expect it too.  I'll give it a go tonight (family issues pending) and see if that did the trick. I suspect it did.

Cheers

Dave

 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Virginia
Posted by Wingman_kz on Friday, February 25, 2011 12:55 AM

Dave, you're welcome and glad you got it sorted out. I imagine the Fine regulator on the Medium tip could be a problem.  You should definitely get in touch with Badger and get them to send you the correct regulator. I prefer using the one without the fingers but hey, you paid for it you should get the right parts. Not a slight against Badger, stuff happens, and I'm sure they'll fix you up.

When you get a chance to use it a bit, if you don't mind, let us know how you like it. I have the Fine version and am curious about the Medium. It really is a nice brush. Trigger response is immediate and the trigger is fairly tall so that helps with control. Small movements = small changes. Don't know how the medium needle compares with the fine but doubt they're that much different. So if you're getting tip dry and *pick* the needle, be careful, it doesn't take much to put a little curve in the end of the needle. Easy to fix though.

Have fun

Tony

            

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Beavercreek, Ohio
Posted by Wrinkledm on Friday, February 25, 2011 8:53 AM

Tony,

No worries, I'm a slow builder but as I get the chance I'll post some follow up views.   I'm home from work today I'll try and play around a bit this afternoon. My paint room is in the garage and i'll fire the heater up after lunch.    Either way I 'm very grateful again for your assistance. 

D

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Beavercreek, Ohio
Posted by Wrinkledm on Friday, February 25, 2011 4:36 PM

Well, I spent about a half an hour this afternoon playing with the Sotar.  I think like  with anything else its going to take time to acclimate myself to a new style of brushing.  I still like my badger 360 and I doubt I'd ever sell it. its a nice brush.  the Sotar is very nice to and seems to give me lines nearly about 1/2 as wide as what I can do with the 360. (~ 1mm)  I also very much like the "throttle stop" that is a very cool feature.It seems I have to run the paint a bit thinner than the 360 (I expected that) but otherwise it works just fine. I don't like how close the trigger is too the paint cup.   My biggest worry is that darned needle seems so exposed out front like that.  The brush doesn't sit in my cradle very well and I'll have to make some modifications.  As far as the Sotar I'll  keep plugging away and see how I like it.    I'm sure give more time and practice I'll like it just fine. 

Cheers

D

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Virginia
Posted by Wingman_kz on Saturday, February 26, 2011 12:42 AM

Took me a little while to get used to it also. I started with the protected regulator but after I picked the paint off the needle a couple times it went in the box and the plain regulator went on. The arms, legs, wings, whatever on that regulator ended up at an odd angle for me. If it turned on just a little further it would have been easier to get to the needle. I drug the needle a couple of times seeing just how fine a line I could pull but it didn't take long to get used to it. It seems to spray a little different depending on which one you're using and again, I like the plain one better.

I emailed Badger to ask about the tip sizes and got a reply from Herman Robisch that the fine is .020mm, medium is .045mm and the large is .075mm. The 360 uses a medium tip that is .070mm. That had been my main brush for quite a while too so I had to rethink thinning ratios. But you can spray at higher pressures with the Sotar without a lot of overspray.

The cup is close to the trigger and it bothered me at first but that does make the front of the brush shorter and lets you get closer to your work. Now, when I've been working with the Sotar and pick up a different brush I feel like I'm a mile away. I don't use the pre-set feature that often but it does come in handy and isn't in the way when you aren't using it.

When I first started looking at airbrushes the Sotar was the one I wanted to try but you couldn't get one for $95 at the time. After a short stint with an Aztec I went with the 360 and never regretted it. Sent it back last summer to have the needle bearing replaced and they also replaced the coupling between the body and front of the brush. It wasn't real loose but it was a lot easier to turn the front of the brush than when it was new. Hang in there and play with that Sotar for a while and you may grow attached to it too...

Tony

            

  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: Windy city, US
Posted by keilau on Saturday, February 26, 2011 9:09 PM

You may be interested in reading the thread on "Choosing an Airbrush".

Not all airbrushes were designed the same. For example, a T-shirt painter will perfer an airbrush that can release a lot of paint quick. On the other hand, a modeler who wants to do free hand camo will like a fine detail airbrush.

When I first used an Iwata HP-CS, I found myself having to thin the paint more and paint in multiple passes using fine misty spray. And I like the result better than my old Paasche H.

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by Marine Sniper on Monday, February 28, 2011 3:48 PM

keilau

Not all airbrushes were designed the same. For example, a T-shirt painter will perfer an airbrush that can release a lot of paint quick. On the other hand, a modeler who wants to do free hand camo will like a fine detail airbrush.

With practice freehand camo can be done with any airbrush.

Regarding T-shirts there are many to choose from and many "detail" airbrushes are used for T-shirts including the Eclipse siphon-feed. T-shirt airbrushingi is not just about blasting large amounts of paint out as detail is needed as well many times.

Mike

 

 

 

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