Spray Gun

Have a look at this page.  It might be of some help.  You should disconnect the cans after each use.  Check out this page too.  They will quickly become expensive.  The 250 uses a lot of air. You might want to consider getting a compressor.

Don

Don Wheeler

...They will quickly become expensive.  The 250 uses a lot of air....

This is true, but also depends on what you are building. 1/72 aircraft? The cans will last much longer than if you are building 1/32 aircraft or large ships.

I will probably be using the spray gun on models that are 1/25.

How much are air compressors anyway?

And after each use, when I disconnect the can, how do I properly seal it?

I should have given you a better answer.  The adapter that screws on the can has a valve on top.   Turning the valve clockwise releases gas from the can.  If you turn it counterclockwise until it feels loose, the can will self seal and you can leave the airbrush connected if you like.  The adapter is the blue thing in the pictures at the bottom of this page.  I always disconnect my airbrushes after each use, but I know that many do not.

Since you specified 1/25 scale, I'm guessing that you will be modeling cars.  If you are careful, you may get a couple kits out of one can.  I suggest you practice first on some scrap plastic, like soda bottles, and that could use up a can.

As for compressor information, type compressor in the Search our Community box on the right side of the page.  Select Painting and airbrushing from the drop down menu, and click on Search.  You will find a lot of threads on selecting a compressor.

Best of luck with your new airbrush and welcome to the forum.

Don

You can also completely remove (as in unscrew) the can adaptor/regulator described by Don above when not in use without fear of leakage from the propellant can. Turning the knob as Don describes actuates a valve in the neck of the can, it does not permanently puncture the can in any way. 

You may be thinking of how some camping stoves/lamps actually pierce the body of the gas canister, which then cannot be removed until the can is empty. This is not the case with airbrush propellant cans.

Ah, ok. Perfect.

Do you guys follow the tip shown on one of the links that said to put the can into warm water so the pressure stays consistent?

67 GTX

Ah, ok. Perfect.

Do you guys follow the tip shown on one of the links that said to put the can into warm water so the pressure stays consistent?

If you're spraying just a little bit, you probably don't need to.  But, it you're doing something bigger, like a whole car body, I would.  If the can feels cold to the touch, you're not getting the best pressure, and you may get spattering.

Don

What type of solvent is the best to use to clean out the paint jar?

Will paint thinner work?

I started with the compressed air canisters, however there is nothing more frustrating than running out of air mid way through a build.

Like a couple others have said I would make the investment in a compressor.

You can get a reasonable compressor for under $150. That isn't exactly cheap, but after a few cans it will start to sound like a better deal.

How do I get the siphoning to work? There is enough paint and nothing is blocked. I tried sucking on the nozzle going into the bottle, but that didn't even seem to work. Any ideas/tips?

I got it to work once before, so I know everything works.

Have another look at my review.  There is a tiny vent hole in the lid area that might be clogged.  Get it to work with plain water before you try paint.

Don

There doesn't seem to be any clog. If the water works, what would that tell me? The paint is too thick?

Well, water is less messy.  And, yes, if water works then properly thinned paint should too.  You said you tried sucking on the nozzle.  Try blowing on it.  If you can't get bubbles, then there has to be a clog.  You can remove the nozzle and tube assembly from the body of the brush to do this. If there is a clog, you can clear it with a straight pin.

I don't know what you are using for air now, but the 250 requires a fair amount to spray well.  And, you know you have to adjust the nozzle up into the air stream to get any spray.

Don

Are you referring to the nozzle that dips into the paint?

Yes, the nozzle is attached to the Teflon tube that dips into the paint.  If you still have the instruction book, it's part number 50-028.

Don

Don Wheeler

67 GTX

Ah, ok. Perfect.

Do you guys follow the tip shown on one of the links that said to put the can into warm water so the pressure stays consistent?

If you're spraying just a little bit, you probably don't need to.  But, it you're doing something bigger, like a whole car body, I would.  If the can feels cold to the touch, you're not getting the best pressure, and you may get spattering.

Don

I have used that trick. One time I did an especially long paint job. The pressure began to drop off. I picked up the can to shake it, and the bowl and water came up with the can.  This is the truth- so help me- the cold can had literally frozen the water in the bowl.  That is when I went out and bought a compressor.

If you do not mind a lot of noise when you paint, you can get an adequate compressor for forty bucks.  But if you want a quieter compressor made for airbrushing you'll have to go a bit over a hundred. My latest cost $120.

Do the $40 compressor's have variable pressures?

Most every compressor can have variable pressure. All a compressor does is pump air. You attach a regulator and a water trap to your air line to regulate and clean your air.

Chris

Ok. I had loads of trouble yesterday. I tried both my new compressor and my old air cans.

I could not spray any paint at all!

I tried straight paint from a testors bottle; didn't work.

Thinned it out; didn't work.

Thinned it out some more; didn't work.

The air hole was not clogged; neither was the paint hose since when I sucked into the bottle holding the paint can, I got some nice paint on my tounge.

Frustrated, I remember someone here saying to try water. Even that didn't work, and I tried that with the air can and the compressor.

I am completely out of ideas here.

Hi 67 GXT

I am no expert by any means !  I have only been building models for a short time ( senior beginner )

and airbrushing  the same

But i had the same problems as you and after many hours of serious self debate and  cans of refreshment I noticed the needle was note moving  , so of came the casing that houses the needle slide /adjuster ,  and as shore as , it was loose . Tightened it up put paint in the cup ,pulled trigger back  paint every where !!!!!!  lack of adjustment  duuuuur

I have a no brand compressor with 3Lt holding tank  no name air brush that i bought of a spray painting firm  in lonsdale South Australia he assures me they will hold up to the best of them ! Time will tell

As i said I am no expert but i hope it helps ,  its a start

Best of luck     Skeata

Even the cheapest compressor is better than canned air.

And there are other alternatives. CO or compressed air in larger tanks.

I've found that the air cans are good for small pieces, or intermediate shots.

As for my problem, I am pretty sure I solved it. Apparently, the nozzle coming out of the paint needed to be adjusted some one. It actually has to be above the exit hole from the air.

Also, I have learned that testor's model paint has to be somewhat thinned out for it to work with my spray gun.

Thank you all!

67 GTX

Also, I have learned that testor's model paint has to be somewhat thinned out for it to work with my spray gun.

Thank you all!

If using enamels, the general "rule of thumb" is to thin to the consistency of milk.  If that doesn't get the results you want, add more thinner, a little at a time.  I seldom use acrylics so that advice might not work with them.

Gary 

What would happen if you over-thin?

And can enamel's and acrylic's be mixed?

76 GTX, overthinning will generally result in weak looking coverage, requiring many more layers to build up a color.   Finding the ratio of paint:thinner that works with your AB set-up, paint and needs is a black art that takes time to find a good baseline... practice on something until you find the sweetspot.

I would never try to mix enamels and acrylics, ever.   That is a recipe for disaster.

Dre

76 GTX, overthinning will generally result in weak looking coverage, requiring many more layers to build up a color.   Finding the ratio of paint:thinner that works with your AB set-up, paint and needs is a black art that takes time to find a good baseline... practice on something until you find the sweetspot.

I would never try to mix enamels and acrylics, ever.   That is a recipe for disaster.

He's right; never mix the two, you will have a glob of goo and the worlds worst clean up of your equipment.  If you use both types on a model make sure the first type is completely dry before adding the other type or goo ensues.

As stated the various brands and types of paint have their own best ratio for thinning, but the milk consistency  is a good place to work to.

Good Luck