Substitute Primer

Seems to me hat the most important thing about a primer is its stickability. Unless its sticks to the model it is going to be useless what ever primer is used.

In my opinion the most important exercise is to prepare the surface. To get rid of that glossy surface of the plastic. To provide a grip for the primer. Leave the glossy surface & you have the basic glossy surface grinning through the surface of the primer & that is most difficult to get rid of without applying un-necessary coats of paint. This goes for any type of a paint work be it automotive, household painting or modelling.

I use an 1800 wet & dry paper with water & this gives a perfect surface for the primer.

Laurie

RESlusher

I pretty much use the cheap, ColorPlace (formerly DupliColor) primer you can pick up at Walmart.  Runs about $1 or so a can.  I can normally get two or three models from one can.

 

I'm with RESlusher, I use Walmart's generic brand du jour, too.  It's cheap in terms of price, but covers well, and I use it on plastic, resin and metal.

I use the dark gray to prime subjects whose final colors will be darker, like USAAF OD over medium gray, while I use the light gray for subjects whose final coat will be lighter (like a lemon yellow streed rod).  The only one I don't use too much is the rusty brownish red version, because it made it harder for me to see some detail when hand-painting.

Best regards,

Brad

   I use Tamiya German Grey(TS-4) in the rattle can. I use several very lite coats and don't lose any detail. That is what works for me. The key is very lite coats.




Have fun!!!!

Chazzer(Scott da Smiley guy)

I've primed the last two aircraft with Mr Surfacer 1200, and it hasn't affected panel lines at all.  I build in 1/32 scale, though, so the lines may be a bit deeper compared to smaller subjects.

This was out of the bottle, thinned with 3/2 with Mr Leveling Thinner.  Sprays like a dream.

As a alternative I find "quality automotive products (qap)" spray primer to be a LOT better then Tamiya's. It flows over the model surface so well that if I do spray too much on it just levels out without clogging up things like panel lines. But the fumes are so horrible that you have to use it outside and let the model dry outside. That alone is why I have a stockpile of 3 cans of Tamiya primer.

BT235 GREY (made in usa).

If you're in dire straights, you can try several automotive primer brands or the other (likely less toxic) suggestions others have made.

I will often use what ever light color flat paint I have the most of at the time. Flat white or gray...even light greens work well. Nothing says you have to use a dedicated primer paint.

I use Krylon gray primer. It is a good, full bodied primer widely available. It used to be very similar to automotive primer.  They changed it a few years ago- not quite as good but still pretty useful.  I have also used auto primers, like Duplicolor and they are fine.

Have either of you used the Tamiya FINE primer?  How do they compare in terms of thickness?  Even the Regular Tamiya is a bit thicker than the Fine- can obscure details especially in spots like cockpit knobs etc...

I pretty much use the cheap, ColorPlace (formerly DupliColor) primer you can pick up at Walmart.  Runs about $1 or so a can.  I can normally get two or three models from one can.

For primer I use automotive primer in a spraycan or Gunze mr surfacer 1200.