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Problem with Clear coat

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  • Member since
    July 2011
Problem with Clear coat
Posted by kopperus on Thursday, July 7, 2011 11:12 PM

Hi,

I'm in the middle of building a car but I'm having a hell  of a time with the clear coat.  I have painted the body parts with Model Master Black Lacquer and I'm attempting to clear coat it using Model Master Gloss Laquer Overcoat.

 

I am encountering a problem when I apply the overcoat, the base color seems to dissolve and run away along edges and body lines leaving the bare plastic exposed underneath.

Anyone know what I'm doing wrong?

 

Thanks

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Huntington, WV
Posted by Kugai on Thursday, July 7, 2011 11:21 PM

The laquer thinner is a LOT stronger than regular enamel thinner.  I discovered just how much so when I mixed it with Squadron White putty to make a "slurry" that someone recommended and it severely softened the stryrene.

Whatever clear coat you use, you want to use a few light coats instead of trying to get it done in one.  It's a given that it will soften the paint, which comes in handy for evening out any brushstrokes and such, but too much will cause the exact problem you describe.

You also want to let each coat thoroughly dry and cure, I'd recommend at least overnight.  Adding a second coat too soon will cause tiny cracks to appear in the finish all over.

http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww122/randysmodels/No%20After%20Market%20Build%20Group/Group%20Badge/GBbadge2.jpghttp://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y211/razordws/GB%20Badges/WMIIIGBsmall.jpg

  • Member since
    December 2010
  • From: T-34 Hunting
Posted by TheWildChild on Thursday, July 7, 2011 11:22 PM

Laquer can be a real pain in the ass to work with. sometimes laquer paints are the two part kind and need a sealer before you can do anything with them. other times you may need to let them dry and "gas out" for long periods of time (upwards of a week in some cases). i had the problem on an F1 car. i spent $30 on the color (in laquer), painted it and tried to clear coat it. the coat reacted with the paint and dissolved the paint, ruined the decals, and overall made the project not worthwhile to even attempt to salvage. the can said a "coat of (the brand escapes me) seal coat is recommended before decaling, detailing, or finishing". it does pay to read the fine print. i would either check the bottle or can and see if it is recommended to use a sealer or contact the company.

-The Wild Child

1/35 XM77  "Sledgehammer", 1964 Chevy Impala Derby Car

Whats next? Aircraft for Ground Attack Group Build

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