Airbrush for Priming/clear coating

Paasche H. Seriously. Yeah, it's single action. Yeah, it's external mix. But it's bombproof, parts are cheap, and it provides the best wide coverage of any airbrush I've ever used.

Now that I'm all used to gravity feed and double action goodness, I don't think I could go back to the old H for all but the broadest painting duties (yellow wings on pre-WWII US aircraft, for example). But for priming and clear coats? Certainly. 

DoogsATX

Paasche H. Seriously. Yeah, it's single action. Yeah, it's external mix. But it's bombproof, parts are cheap, and it provides the best wide coverage of any airbrush I've ever used.

Now that I'm all used to gravity feed and double action goodness, I don't think I could go back to the old H for all but the broadest painting duties (yellow wings on pre-WWII US aircraft, for example). But for priming and clear coats? Certainly. 

I should also qualify that I say this as something of an airbrush snob - got a Badger Patriot, Badger Renegade Velocity, Iwata HP-CS, Iwata HP-C Plus, and H&S Evolution as well. Sold a Grex Tritium TG because I didn't like how it handled (great performance, but the trigger was hell on my wrist). Of those, the H&S is far and away my favorite, but of all of those, I would also default to the old Paasche H for big coverage jobs.

I think the 155 would be perfect. The medium tip and nozzle work great for me shooting primer and clear. I don't have a 155, mine is a 360, with a bottle hanging it's basically the same brush. I didn't notice where you are but if there's a Micheals around it's easy to pick up a needle or nozzle if you need one. I don't believe the Vega 2000 uses a needle seal/bearing, it relies on the clearance between the needle and body for a seal. Not a big deal, just a little easier to get paint back in the body and cleaning may involve another step.

Tony

I use a rattle can for primer.  Covers large surfaces fine.  Since I am not looking for super surface quality when putting on primer, the rattle can is fine.

I sometimes gloss or dullcoat a large model with the Testors rattle cans and get a good finish, but also sometimes on critical surfaces airbrush a clear coat.  With my Badger it takes awhile and I have to be careful with blending, but it works okay.

Hey guys thanks for the input!

Doogs-I am seriously considering the Paasche H, the price is great, and I know that all my local hobby shops stock parts for it. The only problem I really have with it, is the fact that I'm used to double action, and don't really know if I want to go back to a single action..

Wingman-I have handled a 155 before, and I know that both ab's can put out large volumes of paint, so between the two of them, it seems like a tossup. I can get the vega 2000 for a cheaper price, with all the needles and tips, so I might just go with that. I do live near a Michael's, so with a 50% off coupon, I know parts for a Badger would be cheap.

Don-I have previously used primers and clear coats by cans with great results, but I don't really have a great area to spray them in, and the fumes can get annoying. I've also found primers and clear coats in acrylic that work great, so I think i'm going that route.

The Badger Crescendo and the 155 Anthem put out the most paint.

Hey Matt575

Have you looked at the 2 available A/B that spray an elliptical pattern.

1  Iwata Kustom TH .5 n/n with a eliptical air cap as well as a round aircap plus a built in air pressure regulator. Price $400 ouch!

2. Paasche Talon with the .66 n/n with an elipitical air cap and a round cap .Price $100-125 ish

I bought the first one not knowing about the second. It has changed the way I spray primers , base coat colors, and clear coats..also extremely handy when spraingy ground board colors.

I believe Badger is currently in R&D on a similar type of A/B.

One thing to keep in mind withe these type of brushes is they use allot more air so check your compressor's output!

Steve J

I forgot to mention that both of these are gravity fed but have generous size cups.

Steve

I am still using my little old Testors plastic-body (model number unknown!) that I picked up when I firs started getting back into the hobby, 10-12 years ago. Still has good enough coverage for primer & overall gloss-coats, etc. And it cleans up quicker than my Badger.

I forgot to mention that both of these are gravity fed but have generous cup sizes.

 I am aware that the Iwata does not fit your budget but the Talon is pretty close.I just finished painting a 1/32 P-47D and could paint the wing in 3 passes

Good luck

Steve