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im going to be using the MM Metalizer on my P-51. i was a little confused on the clear coat part. they say it needs to be sealed with their sealer. once the sealer is on.."this is where i get confused." does it need a clear coat for decals or does the sealer act as a clear coat?
thanks!
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The sealer will act as a clear coat.
F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!
U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!
N is for NO SURVIVORS...
- Plankton
LSM
stikpusher The sealer will act as a clear coat.
thanks for the reply!!!
That's right.
Actually, I have found that the buffed metallizer is glossy, so I have successfully applied decals over the buffed metallizer, no decal solvent, then when dry, coat it with metallizer sealer and it will do the work of decal solvent also. Don't be alarmed when the decals sort of bubble up- let it dry overnight and they will settle down, nicely sealed.
Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...
thanks for the info!
My favorite MM Metalizer is buffing Aluminum Plate. Last time I use it, I buffed the model (Revell F-84G) and added the decals without any gloss coats. It does work well without gloss coat and the finish was resistant to Microscale decal solution. However, by previous experience, even the native Model Master sealer takes away some of the metallic finish look so my F-84G was left unsealed instead. My last F-86F was painted with Alclad 2 and their new line of Klear Kotes and since then, I'm a believer.
The Alclad 2 Aqua 600 clear gloss is water based, almost odorless and it can also be used to dip your clear parts in it as you would with Future. The other Koats are not water based, they are very smelly and the AB needs to me dismantled for cleaning. I've got a $20 Single Action Badger for this task.
Metallizer sealer is also safe for the clear parts, also helps them (like that floor stuff!).
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