Priming Questions

I believe Floquil to be a lacquer-based.

Gip Winecoff

Hi Drew, Gip, and Hungfarlow,

Thanks so much for the tips! These suggestions are great!! I was afraid to mix different formulas, so as I understand it, using an enamel/solvent but letting it completely cure, then I can use an acrylic...very cool idea. One further question: is Floquil reefer white a solvent based or is it in the Polyscale acrylic range?
Thanks again!!

elfkin

For certain colors like white and yellow it's almost necessary to prime. Otherwise it depends on the brand of paint I use. For some brand I would prime because they don't have very good adhesion. I would also prime if the model requires some smoothing out. You can prime with either acrylic or enamel, and it doesn't matter what kind of final top coat you use. Sometimes I prime with the opposite type of paint, and sometimes I prime with the same type of paint. Doesn't matter if you sand after priming or not. For natural metal finish gloss black is a good primer.

I've only done one model this way (so far) but I've been very pleased with the results: I use Testors light grey spray can enamel as my primer. Let it dry thoroughly (I wait up to a week), and then air brush Testors MM Acryl paints for the plane's colors.


I try to keep all of my paint coats light, but I also need to have total coverage. Several light coats of primer is better than one thick coat.

Gip's statement about enamels sticking better to plastic has been borne out by my experience. I've painted some of the detail parts (like the missiles) with MM Acryl flat white, without priming first, and I've gotten minor runs and had to use two or three coats. I plan on priming the landing gear and other fiddly bits before painting them with the Acryl paints.

I've also sanded the primer coat with good effect. The radome on my model is as smooth as a baby's bottom.

I hope some of this helps.

-Drew

1. As an armor builder, I spray every model flat black first. This is for a couple reasons.
It allows me to see any mistakes that need to be corrected before the topcoat goes on; it provides additional "tooth" for the topcoat to adhere to; and it provides the first step in the weathering process, since the topcoat will be put on in a mottled-type fashion. I think that if you're modeling an aircraft, you'll want to prime--particularly the landing gear, since getting flat white on bare plastic can be a real bear of a job. Priming helps with that operation. I understand yellow is also a hard color to work with. If you're thinking of finishing an aircraft with, say, yellow wings, then a prime coat would in my opinion be mandatory.
2. I completely cover the model, but I do not put it on thick. I don't want to "soften" any of the raised detail that priming and topcoating have the potential of doing.
3. Not being a total A/C modeler, I am unsure, but the color needs to be one that will cover any seam work and not allow it to show when the topcoat is applied. Seems to me the prime color would be dependent on what top coat you plan to use. As I understand it, primer colors can affect the tonality of topcoat colors.
4. Not necessarily. I tend to prime with an enamel (personal preference) because organic solvents in enamels provide a little better "bite" into plastic than water-soluble solvents. You can then spray acrylics over the enamel primer if you like.
5. Some modelers like to use Floquil's reefer white as a primer
6. See #1 above. If there is a problem, I'll sand to get to or repair the problem; otherwise, unless I'm building a kit with a high-gloss finish, I won't sand.

So there you go--at least as far as what I do. There are more knowledgeable folks than me that can probably give you better guidance. But I will suggest that you experiment on some old "clunkers" to see what works for you and then go for it! Good luck!

Hope this helps you some,
Gip Winecoff