Leaking b/w nozzle cap and body

Any joints like that should not be sealed by some gel or liquid, rather a rubber ring. So much more effective... 

As a stop gap measure you might try the kind of tape you use to create a seal when you hook up a hose to a gas cooker in the kitchen? As i am dutch i don't know the correct term, sorry...

On my own airbrush (revell masterclass professional aka licensed built badger vega) all joints like that have tiny rubber rings between them. I never ever have had problems like you are mentioning and i suspect these rings are a big reason why not.

The only thing i use on the threads and needle is a small amount of vaseline lubricant but that is mostly to prevent rust and such.

Richard

Try a little beeswax on the threads.

icer22x

Have any of you ever experienced leakage between the nozzle cap and the main body of your airbrush? I noticed this when I was spraying a mixture of IPA/distilled water/Windex through my AB and bubbles were forming between the seal. I can also see moisture coming out slightly when I spray straight water sometimes.

This started happening after I soaked the nozzle cap and few other small parts in some IPA for a few hours.

I read on an airbrush forum that a user with a Grex AB was having the same issue I am. He got a letter back from Grex saying that when the AB is assembled at the factory, there is a gel-like sealant that is put on the threads to prevent leakage of this sort.

I have a Badger Renegade Velocity. I was curious if anyone has experienced this with a Badger (or any other AB) and if you use sealant on your threads.

Icer, what is IPA? Isopropyl alcohol or the beer? If Isopropyl alcohol, rubbing alcohol or industrial grade? Also, Windex with ammonia is bad for brass body of the airbrush. 

Why did you soak you brand new airbrush in the solution? Did the nozzle cap go back in smoothly? The Velocity nozzle is small, the hold down ring is still easy to seat. Does the Ashley Brayson video help?

On the Velocity, there is a PTFE needle bearing seal inside the housing. The attached nozzle/tip housing has been permanently affixed to airbrush shell and is not made to be removed. When the nozzle is seated properly, there is no chance of a leak unless something is broken. In that case, the airbrush needs to be sent back to Badger for service. There is no external seal for the nozzle.

I do not have the Renegade Velocity. I have the Krome and a Patriot, They never have the problem you mention. If you have a knock-off airbrush instead of a Badger Velocity, many of them do need a small rubber or similar material O-ring for the nozzle.

Windex with ammonia is bad for airbrushes?  What do you use to clean them then?  I've been using cheap, generic glass cleaner for about 7 years now - haven't noticed any problems.  What do I need to look for? Thanks!

Windex isnt your problem, should be fine. Its the ammonia that is the culprit. It will eat into the brass components of your AB when left for too long. Usually after spraying future you should clean with ammonia, then clean again with water to get all the ammonia out

Richard

I seal by beewax all my tree airbrushes ,Patriot105,Badger Velocity,Iwata hp-sb plus.......HI Enrico.

You could read my opinion near the bottom of this   page, in the section called Wax on - Wax off.

Don

kermit

Windex isnt your problem, should be fine. Its the ammonia that is the culprit. It will eat into the brass components of your AB when left for too long. Usually after spraying future you should clean with ammonia, then clean again with water to get all the ammonia out

Richard

I checked the product labels, almost all Windex have certain amount of ammonia. I don't know a specific incident that soaking the airbrush in a Windex solution caused the airbrush owner problem. On the safe side, I do not want to try that.

Most recommendation I heard about using Windex was that use it for flushing the airbrush only and flush the windex out with water immediately.

I have not heard people using pure ammonia to soak or flush their airbrush much. Yours is one of the few time. Most people don't like the smell of household ammonia in spraying anyway. 

IPA is of course alcohol. I don't want to soak my parts in beer. lol It's 91% IPA also. I soaked the parts in the solution because I had dried paint on them. I was using Windex to thin Tamiya paint, and found out later that I'm not supposed to do that. It gunks it up.

I think this was what was causing a majority of my issues. I thoroughly cleaned all the parts with IPA and started using IPA to thin the paint. It works really well. I only use Windex when I clean Future out of it. Then I follow that with water.

However, that solution I made (78% IPA 22% distilled water and a few squirts of Windex) still creates bubbles between the nozzle cap and the main body. I think whatever sealing substance was on the threads before, I washed away when I soaked the parts in IPA.

icer22x

IPA is of course alcohol. I don't want to soak my parts in beer. lol It's 91% IPA also. I soaked the parts in the solution because I had dried paint on them. I was using Windex to thin Tamiya paint, and found out later that I'm not supposed to do that. It gunks it up.

I think this was what was causing a majority of my issues. I thoroughly cleaned all the parts with IPA and started using IPA to thin the paint. It works really well. I only use Windex when I clean Future out of it. Then I follow that with water.

However, that solution I made (78% IPA 22% distilled water and a few squirts of Windex) still creates bubbles between the nozzle cap and the main body. I think whatever sealing substance was on the threads before, I washed away when I soaked the parts in IPA.

IPA = Indea Pale Ale. Just kidding you.

Lesson learned: clean your airbrush thoroughly immediately after each day's use. I found back flush very effective with my Iwata HP-CS in between colors. I took the airbrush needle out for more thorough cleaning at the end of the day.  The more experience Badger may have a better process for the Velocity.

It is great to hear your success story.

Haha I know. IPA is some of my favorite beer. Love the hops.

I read a site about beeswax posted a few posts up. I'm going to try that. Paint flows through fine, it's just when I get a little soapy water through the brush or around the threads that little bubbles appear.

Also, just called Badger and explained my situation to them. They do not use any sealing solution on the threads when they send their brushes out.

However, they explained a little air escaping between the threads and creating bubbles with a soapy solution is normal and doesn't represent any error with the airbrush.

I'm still going to try and get some beeswax. What kind of stores would sell it?

Drug store cosmetics counter for hair removal, you can do a "Brazilian" if you want with the leftovers, or a beeswax candle would work.

Icer,

I have the same problem when cleaning my Badger 155 with rubbing alcohol.  Af first I thought I did not seat the tip in firm enough when I cleaned it (although I did).  It still airbrushes paint fine though.

Brian

icer22x, sometimes my brushes will blow bubbles with Windex and sometimes if I'm rinsing the cup with alcohol I'll get a little drop of it under the head or aircap. Doesn't seem to be a problem. Usually if I take the front apart and reassemble it stops. The only time I use beeswax to seal threads is on a brush with a screw in nozzle or tip and on a brush like a Sotar or 100 that the complete head screws on and off. Just put a little dab of wax on the threads, start the tip or head in the brush and hold the flame of a match or lighter under it for a second or two then screw it the rest of the way in. The wax melts very quickly and flows around the threads to give a better seal.

Tony