Auto spray primer (ball and can)

Yes it was that dragway.  I stayed a few nights in Hayward , but then started staying at a hotel in Fremont with a really good pizza shoppe.   It was a mom and pop shoppe with them being from Italy.  Most of the patrons thought me gross as I chomped away holding the pizza in my hands!  Them?  Fork and knife thank you.

    I bet Hayward and area has really changed.  One of my favorite areas.   Thanks again Mike.  See ya latter.   Bud  

BBAT222

Thanks mike. Your tip  about the scotchbright will be well taken as with Hans comments.  

Glad I could help Bud. There are several of us here who have been airbrushing a long time so you are bound to get some good info from these guys.

When I was in the Navy (66-70) I used to spend my weekends in your neck of  the woods when I could.   At the drag strip!  Is it still there?  

Do you mean the old Baylands Raceway in Fremont? Unfortunately it closed way back in the 80's I believe. It is all strip malls and so forth now. I was able to go to the final races there. I was born here in Hayward in 1961 so I have seen a lot of changes over the years in this area.

Thanks mike. Your tip  about the scotchbright will be well taken as with Hans comments.  

When I was in the Navy (66-70) I used to spend my weekends in your neck of  the woods when I could.   At the drag strip!  Is it still there?  Thanks again.   Bud

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Thanks for the definition Hans.  With the use of primers does acrylics change the playing field?   I've  just started a 48th Spitfire from re-boxed Itileria.  I paint thinner-ed the sandible   auto primer (checked & cracked-up) that I used and now I'm with you and just a good wash to be on the safe side.

sorry for the large photo, first time posting a photo...must use thumbnail ~

I agree with Hans as I seldom use primers either even with acrylics.

All you need to do is scuff the surface with a Scotchbrite pad, clean with Iso alcohol and the paint will have enough "tooth" to adhere to usually.

"Toothy" in this case means "rough"... A primer with "tooth" has a roughness that give the paint something to hang onto..

Frankly, I've seen no reason to prime styrene with anything in over 40 years of modeling, much less priming with an automotive-grade primer, save a kit that's going to be finished with metallics (to give it some texture and therefore different levels of reflectivity).... Metal parts that get handled a lot, yes... But not styrene... Primer just adds a layer of paint...

Enamels will "bite" the styrene enough...  Laquers even moreso... 

If you've done a lot of sanding however, and have putty all over it or the like, priming WILL help seal the pores in the putty and to fill some sandscratches...  But you have to wet-sand it as well, and most of the primer will be removed during that process...

Wow I thought that all the release stuff had been dealt with since the sixties.  I guess not.  I must of been lucky so far.  This is my first camo model and I'm about to break a sweat just thinking about it.   I do stained glass as well for many years now.  I stopped in '06 with the loss of my right eye.  Which is why I've started  back with models so that I can get my depth perception (within arms reach)  figured out with small objects. 

 Your term "toothy" means 'holds strong" or something else.   And do you have a preferred primer that you think is best overall or to fit the job.      Hay again thanks for the help Bud.   

Yes, I ordinarily use primers- usually a pretty toothy one.  However, I have had kits that had enough mold release that even primer would not stick right till I cleaned parts.  Resin almost always needs cleaning.

Thanks Don.   I didn't think of that.  So i'll use some super clean and water and try it.  I did give her a bath in paint thinner and that did the trick.  I almost tried acetone.  Thought twice and put a sprue  in and Huston I had a melt down.  Do you primers?  For only certain purposes?  Thanks again Bud. 

There are getting to be so many kinds of paint nowadays that you have to be a chemist to understand what they are.  Some auto body paints in rattle cans are acrylic lacquer or acrylic enamel (I don't know the difference but there apparently is some).  Also, I have had such checking on models that had an inordinate amount of mold release agent (even in a styrene die cast kit).  Try washing an area of sprue and painting that area to see what happens.