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Dish Detergent and BBs?

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  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Edmonton, Alberta
Dish Detergent and BBs?
Posted by Griffin on Tuesday, November 15, 2011 8:50 PM

I was reading today in one of Paul Boyer's books (I'm way too lazy to go downstairs and get it to provide the title) and he mentioned adding a drop or two of dish detergent to acrylic paint act as a flow agent. He specifically mentioned with Polly S.

Does anyone do this with their acrylics or is this "Old School?" Has anyone done it with Vallejo paints?

He also mentioned adding BBs to the paint bottles. How about this? Does anyone do this?

Does anyone ever open their bottles of Vallejos

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Wednesday, November 16, 2011 10:30 AM

I used to add a couple BBs to every bottle of paint I got, to help when shaking them up (a la rattlecan). Since I got a Dremel, and made a stir stick ("T" shaped sprue), I don't shake paint anymore. It always seemed that after a month or two, the BBs would be stuck to the bottom with hardened paint. It may be different wih acrylics, I've only ever used enamels. I have found that paint seems to last a lot longer when it's stirred up with the Dremel.

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Hancock, Me USA
Posted by p38jl on Wednesday, November 16, 2011 10:41 AM

BB;s are good idea. I've done that.

 the dish detergant is added at mix/spraying time I beleive...

 

[Photobucket]

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Rothesay, NB Canada
Posted by VanceCrozier on Wednesday, November 16, 2011 10:49 AM

BBs, no, never tried that. The dish soap though I have done though, but only in a sludge-wash for panel lines, recessed areas etc. In that case it allows the paint o dry slower, easier to wipe off what you don't want.

On the bench: Airfix 1/72 Wildcat; Airfix 1/72 Vampire T11; Airfix 1/72 Fouga Magister

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: East TX
Posted by modelchasm on Wednesday, November 16, 2011 10:50 AM

I remember fermis posting something about this a good minute back. I gave his stir-method a shot and I haven't gone back to shaking.

I almost strickly use vallejo acrylics and this method works well ... especially since vallejos are a little thick. Stirring helps to get everything up from the bottom that's settled. I've also hear of some taking a 10p nail and cutting/ twisting the head into a "fan" shape. I tried this but it seemed like too much work when you already have a steady supply of sprue for replacements.

I don't think that BBs would work very well with acrylics as over time I think that you might get some kind of corrosion going and that might mess things up ...

This guy prefers to stir ... just make sure you have a LOW setting on your dremel before trying it....

"If you're not scratching, you're not trying!"  -Scott

  • Member since
    July 2010
  • From: Tornado Alley
Posted by Echo139er on Wednesday, November 16, 2011 11:34 AM

modelchasm

I don't think that BBs would work very well with acrylics as over time I think that you might get some kind of corrosion going and that might mess things up ...

I agree.  Although I have never tried it; that makes sense. 

I use bearings that come in the rattle cans; everytime I finish off one of the spray cans I cut it open and retrieve it.   I use those on my mixed paint jars with good results.  Only on enamel though.  I have seen however, glass beads heavy and small enough that can be used with acrylics.  That would solve the corrosion issue.

I usually stir my paints, more oftern than not,  I am too lazy to setup and clean the stirer.  So I shake it up instead.

 Good questions!

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Wednesday, November 16, 2011 11:52 AM

I've used dishwashing liquid, too, for sludge washes and mixed with ground chalk pigments, to make mud on 1/72 vehicles.  In a sludge wash, it does work as a "flow agent", in that it allows you to control the flow, which is what one of the previous posters mentioned.  Without reading the context of the passage, I can't tell if you mean that Boyer means that it made flow easier.

Regarding the BB, the corrosion thing can be an issue.  My buddy Joe Leonetti gave me a great tip--he uses small pieces of glass.  I thought that's a great idea--glass is non-reactive, and if you live in a city, you can probably find good pieces in the gravel in the gutters, sufficiently ground down as to be safe to handle without cutting yourself.  If you must spend money on it, I suppose you could find small glass beads in a craft store and use those instead.  But I'm Dutchy, so if I can do it without spending money, that's gravy on the roast for me.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2010
Posted by Bigb123 on Wednesday, November 16, 2011 12:22 PM

Wonder if plastic craft beads would work?  They're usually cheap for a lot of them.

I use copper bbs in my enamels and lacquers and haven't had a problem.   Tried the steel bbs and the corrosion thing became an issue, so I tried the copper ones.  Works okay for me.

The only time I use dishwashing liquid is in my acrylic sludge washes.  I got my mixing formula from the Nov. 2001(?) issue of FSM in an article by Paul Boyer.  I think the article is available for free download from FSM.

  • Member since
    August 2011
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by GreenThumb on Wednesday, November 16, 2011 3:10 PM

I don't ever put anything in my paint jars. I just open them when needed and stir them with my Badger paint mixer.

Mike

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2010
  • From: Tornado Alley
Posted by Echo139er on Wednesday, November 16, 2011 3:37 PM

Bigb123

Wonder if plastic craft beads would work?  They're usually cheap for a lot of them.

Not heavy enough.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Edmonton, Alberta
Posted by Griffin on Wednesday, November 16, 2011 3:41 PM

GreenThumb

I don't ever put anything in my paint jars. I just open them when needed and stir them with my Badger paint mixer. http://www.badgerairbrush.com/library/PAINT-MIXER.jpg

I use one of these too but it won't fit through the neck of a Vallejo dropper-style bottle.Bang Head

  • Member since
    July 2010
  • From: Tornado Alley
Posted by Echo139er on Wednesday, November 16, 2011 3:48 PM

Those dropper tips pop off.  I have a couple empty ones that I refill with decanted paint.  That mixer might fit.

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Scotland
Posted by Milairjunkie on Wednesday, November 16, 2011 4:16 PM

Griffin

Does anyone do this with their acrylics or is this "Old School?" Has anyone done it with Vallejo paints?

Almost - I sometimes use Liquitex Flow Aid with Tamiya acrylics, depending on the particular colour & how it's performing (or not), it reduces the surface tension & allows helps the paint behave better on occasion. Dish-washing detergent does the same thing - reduces the surface tension.

I stick with Flow Aid as who knows what is in any given brand of detergent...........................

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Edmonton, Alberta
Posted by Griffin on Wednesday, November 16, 2011 4:43 PM

 the dish detergant is added at mix/spraying time I beleive...

I think he adds it when he opens the jar for the first time. 1-2 drops right to the bottle, IIRC.

Echo139er

Those dropper tips pop off.  I have a couple empty ones that I refill with decanted paint.  That mixer might fit.

I think I tried, but I'll have to take another look.

  • Member since
    April 2008
Posted by jimmyz on Thursday, November 24, 2011 4:03 AM

I use another paint stirrer like the Badger. I have one of those but I don't like it. My other one has a switch that you press down and as soon as you let off it, it stops, The badger, especially in deep bottles can be messy when it's pullled up enough to operate the slide switch. I had trouble with the motor/shaft assembly getting out of balance or something and wobbling. After it causing the 4th broken glass airbrush bottle I stopped using it.

I had my other one for years and I can't redall the brand but when/if I finally figure it out I will buy a spare.

Most times I use a Robart paint shaker because with bottles of paint that have sat for a while I can leave it in the shaker for 5 or 10 minutes.

 

  • Member since
    July 2010
  • From: Tornado Alley
Posted by Echo139er on Monday, November 28, 2011 11:29 AM

I came across this handy dandy DIY gizmo while researching BBs in paint.  

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Monday, November 28, 2011 12:10 PM

Echo139er

I came across this handy dandy DIY gizmo while researching BBs in paint.  

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v231/mickc22/paint-shaker-002.jpg

I LOVE it!  It's right up my alley, got "Tim 'The Toolman' Taylor" written all over it!  Great solution!

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2010
  • From: Tornado Alley
Posted by Echo139er on Monday, November 28, 2011 12:22 PM

the Baron

 

 Echo139er:

 

I came across this handy dandy DIY gizmo while researching BBs in paint.  

 

 

 

I LOVE it!  It's right up my alley, got "Tim 'The Toolman' Taylor" written all over it!  Great solution!

I know, right...   At first I was like "What?"  but then I was like "Whoa!  YES!"

 

Know what I mean?

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Las Vegas
Posted by dood_dood on Monday, November 28, 2011 2:43 PM

I like the idea of the craft beads. I think I'll try some - they may not be heavy enough - we'll see.

 I've been using copper BBs for a couple of years now, and do run into corrosion occaissionally, but not severe.  I never have detected it in the undiluted bottles (not sure you could detect it anyway) but see it from time to time in my thinned mixes.  Just see a little rust tinge around the bbs at the bottle bottom before I shake.  Yes,I do keep pre-thinned mixes, although I've seen some say it's a bad practce.

I use Tamiya acylics and thinner.

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