Painting Camo on aircraft

Freehand takes practice,practice,practice.Try Different air pressures.different paint volumes,different paint ratios.Try prcticing on old models or cardboard.there's no magic bullet,just have to work on it.

FSM's latest 'special' Build Better Models" issue has a few different techniques for masking aircraft. There is a F-4 Phantom on the cover, its just hit the news stands this month.

I have not read all the articles yet but do recommend it for any & all aircraft builders. Its a collection of the best aircraft articles from the past with a few new ones.

practice, pratice, practice

Thad

What kind of airbrush? What kind of paint? Honestly I've never found mottling all that bad. Of course I say that a few days away from mottling work on my Fw 190A-3, and now will surely screw it up!

ahh sorry, I'm using a Badger Crescendo 175 and Tamiya paints, having looked at a few posts I know this isnt a top end brush but all I can afford for now, the main issue is my compressors I think,, one is a fixed pressure one I have had for years the other is a very large compressor that I just about manage to turn down to 20 psi. I'm saving for an actual model compressor but again I dont have a huge budget.

You need less pressure then that for close in work,can you get an inexpensive regulator ? thats what it will take for precise close in work.

AdrianUK

ahh sorry, I'm using a Badger Crescendo 175 and Tamiya paints, having looked at a few posts I know this isnt a top end brush but all I can afford for now, the main issue is my compressors I think,, one is a fixed pressure one I have had for years the other is a very large compressor that I just about manage to turn down to 20 psi. I'm saving for an actual model compressor but again I dont have a huge budget.

Excellent.

Personally, I had a Badger Crescendo back when I was a teenager and didn't particularly like it. But I also didn't have too good a sense of how to properly care for it, which probably had an impact. Siphon feed only, right? Gravity feeds are generally better at the lower psi/smaller lines and dots work - something to consider for a second airbrush (they also use less paint). BUT - a Crescendo should work fine.

Tamiya paints = good choice. IMO they are the best for mottling work, about tied with Gunze and just ahead of Model Master. For mottling you don't want to fuss with tip dry, and want very smooth, well-atomized paint. For both, I'd recommend using a high grade lacquer thinner a la Tamiya's own, or Gunze Mr. Color or Mr. Leveling Thinner. Even if just for the close-in stuff, it makes a difference. 

Regarding the compressor, I'm in the same boat right now...don't trust my shop compressor so I'm using an old fixed-pressure Paasche blue beast. It also wanders around the floor. One solution would be to buy a regulator/moisture trap. Another thing to consider is a Grex G-MAC. I've got one of these on my airbrush hose and quick connects on my brushes. Apart from the convenience, the ability to make micro adjustments to air pressure right at the brush is pretty great. And you can buy 'em on Amazon!

http://grexusa.com/grexairbrush/G-MAC.php5

Here are some thoughts on fine lines, and here is some info on the Badger 175 and some sample output.  The 175 will do some pretty fine work.  20psi should be OK.

Don

I really need to practice,,, there is no way I get even near to that thin even when I use the fine needle, I'm currently watching a lot of UTube vids and ready to practice this weekend.

Try some ink or food colors on paper towels just for fun, and see what you can do.

Don

What Don said. Or pick up an inexpensive tablet of watercolor paper to practice on. Was going to ask if you have the fine needle and tip for your 175 but see that you do. Do you have the cup? That may work a little better than a bottle. I don't know how much you thin your paint but try this, put enough thinner in your cup or bottle to spray with for a little while and then add enough drops of paint to get the color you're working with. Turn your air pressure down and move in very close to your practice medium, whether it's paper or plastic. Push the trigger down and pull back till you get paint flow. If you get a blowout (paint runs and blows out in a little circle maybe with legs running out) then add a little paint. Keep at it till that doesn't happen. If you're trying to pull/draw a line you need to be moving when the paint starts and stops or you'll end up with barbells, a line with dots on each end. Always start the air first then the paint and stop the paint first then the air. If not you can end up with a drop of paint on the end of the needle that will blow off when you start the air again. And don't worry, you'll get the hang of it. Just takes practice.

Tony

For mottling, I generally use a mask... I punch or cut irregular holes in the paper (either Frisket paper or, for samll areas, Post-It notes), then apply the masks to the aircraft, leaving them about an 1/8-inch off the surface... This gives a soft, feathered edge to it, but is way more forgiving than going free-hand...

Here's a quick & dirty sketch of a mask.. The actual size and number of patterns is variable and limited only by what you feel good about...

It'll still take pratice, though not as much...

There are an unlimited number of things that can be use for AB masking.  One of my favorites for hard lines is friskit paper.  Comes in rolls or sheets, low tack sticky and can works around curves fairly well.  Use a good sharp (new) #11 blade & I'tll cut well with little pressure.

Hand held & paper masks are great for fuzzy edges.  You can use drafting triangles, french curves, cut paper patterns.  If you have repetitive patterns, use sheet frisket in your printer, and then cut what you need out.

Also, for battle damage, and spatters, try dipping a tooth brush in paint, and flicking it onto the surface.

Reid

The problem with testing on any kind of paper   is that it adsorbs the paint very fast.  You can get the perfect look on paper then using the exact same settings get some really bad spiders and runs on plastic.  Empty plastic milk containers are great for more of a WYSIWYG.

wing_nut

The problem with testing on any kind of paper   is that it adsorbs the paint very fast.  You can get the perfect look on paper then using the exact same settings get some really bad spiders and runs on plastic.  Empty plastic milk containers are great for more of a WYSIWYG.

But the nice thing about paper and ink is that it is easier and builds confidence while learning trigger control.  It eliminates problems with tip clog and thinning.  Once you develop control on paper, you have a head start on working with paint on plastic.

Don

Well been practicing today with my Crescendo and my compressor turned right down, but I still cant get really fine lines, thinest I can get to is around 12mm. I tried on plastic and paper towel just hope I can get a better compressor and perhaps a top feed brush soon.

Something is seriously wrong if you can't do finer than 12mm.  If it's the airbrush, it needs some cleaning or work.  If it's you, I don't think a gravity brush will help much.  How far back are you spraying from?  I still say you should try some ink or food colors to eliminate paint as part of the problem.  The Crescendo should do fine with about 20psi.

Don

I made sure the brush was all cleaned using badger brush cleaner, I was using food dye and at around 12 inches I got massive coverage, as I moved into around 4-5 inches I managed to get it to about 12mm width.Even making sure I had the fine needle set,  I guess it must be me so I'll keep practicing.

You have to get much closer to do fine lines.  Look at the pictures on this page.  When I did the sample in my review, the needle was almost touching.

Don

Well after a few hours practicing I think I have it nailed, well I'm getting better least ways. Heres a pic of my practice board, also I tried my hand at pre-shading, I think it's a little heavy but I am just learning after all so helpful comments welcomed :)

Way to go!  You're getting there.  The more you practice the better you'll get.  Play with the thinning and see what effect it has.

Don

AdrianUK

as I moved into around 4-5 inches I managed to get it to about 12mm width.Even making sure I had the fine needle set,  I guess it must be me so I'll keep practicing.

You need to get within 1/4" or less for the finest lines possible.

There you go, just takes a little practice.  A few basic exercises and a little experimenting to see what your airbrush likes and you'll amaze yourself.  Most Badger manuals describe the exercises and if you don't have one you can go to the Badger site to download a .pdf file.

Tony

OMCUSNR

One of my favorites for hard lines is friskit paper. 

Yupper, said the same thing m'self... Dunno what I'd do without that stuff.. Besides making mottling masks, I use it for stencils too; making squadron codes, balkenkreuze markings, hinomaru, various roundels, LSO stripes, etc....

For the "painted on" look, nothing beats paint!

Sorry never heard of friskit paper over here in my corner of England, what is it ?

If you're going to mottle Tamiya you'll need change some techniques from laying down a normal coat. First, you've got alter psi and paint output. There are two ways to do this. The Crescendo should allow you to limit the amount of paint coming out, so set it for very little. (Also, if you have more than one needle, use the thinnest nozzle/needle you have. If you don't, buy the thinnest for future use - it'll be cheap, and it does make a difference.) Then push your psi to 30-35 lb and let her rip with heavily thinned paint. (Maybe 60% lacquer thinner. I think it is tasks like this that show the clear superiority of Tamiya lacquer thinner over A-20. Mr. Color from Gunze is equally good - Gunze doesn't mess around and thus don't over an alcohol based version like A-20 to keep up the "acrylic" fiction. Do not use hardware store lacquer thinner on plastic. A-20 will work but will make your job harder. Maybe witches' brew additions like a drop of Klear, or diswashing soap or windex or windshield cleaner might help out A-20.) Limiting the air flow is how master modelers like Gary Edmundson get spectacular results with single action brushes which most serious modelers consider the inferior breed. (I don't know the psi setting he favors.)  I like "low and slow." Set the psi to about 15 psi and likewise limit the amount of liquid coming out, but not to the same degree. And likewise thin the paint heavily. (It's my experience that Tamiya will allow for very heavy thinning and work well. Other types will require even different techniques.) Make sure you're painting from a very close distance: almost point blank. (I've seen Phil Foley at the wonderful Foley Models site use the tip guard for his Harder Steenbeck: thing's designed for very fine lines done on fabric or paper. Some modelers remove the needle guard altogether as long as the nozzle stays on without it.) Either way keep some lacquer thinner and a brush handy and clean-off the tip often, as this kind of painting will invite a clogging. Anyway, you'll need very thin paint: limited amount of paint coming out, and very close range work. Foley and armor guru Adam Wilder use both hands on their brush for this kind of work. Once you get the hang of it, I think you'll find it actually pretty easy, and if things aren't exactly perfect, neither were the real aircraft. Practice on an old model or a dead blank CD/DVD. If your hand is steady enough you may be able to retire masks because good close-in skills could lay down a very hard or very soft edge depending upon the angle of the brush. Keep trying.

Eric

EBergerud

I like "low and slow." Set the psi to about 15 psi

I would not try and spray the Crescendo at 15 psi, that is a pressure for gravity-feed airbrushes.

I see the point. I have a Paasche VLS which is double action bottom feed brush. So I tried a little experiment with water. When set at 15psi you can see the pressure gauge go down when you depress it. That said, I'd still try it. I moved the dial to set for a very thin stream of fluid and a mild flow of air resulted. I think it would have mottled just fine with a thin fluid if you pressed gently. Needle width would be a big variable. My VLS has the large needle in it (not even sure what size the VLS needles are - not listed as I can see on their site: a large Talon would be .75) because I use it for things like Pledge. As noted, a thin needle helps for thin lines. And if the needle width is the problem then high psi is only going to make things harder.

Eric

Well my new compressor arrived today, regulator, tank and very quiet. It came with two airbrushes also, one a gravity feed so seems I am all set for the new year , looking forward to practicing and getting better results :)