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Tips on using MM Non-buffing Aluminum

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  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Tips on using MM Non-buffing Aluminum
Posted by JOE RIX on Tuesday, December 13, 2011 8:11 AM

 I'm getting ready to paint my first NMF on a 1/48 Tamiya P-47D Bubbletop. What I have  available for the task is MM non-buffing aluminum. Thus. I am seeking tips on it's use. Such things as: How does it spray?, Does it mask well?, Can you tint it with other colors?, Can you paint over it with other colors? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

                                               Thanks, Joe

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Borlando Fla home of the rat
Posted by TREYZX10R on Tuesday, December 13, 2011 8:18 AM

Joe be careful it does not like to be masked,I usually top coat with testors dull or clearkote . It does spray nice and gives a great finish once buffed. There is a real good article in the new FSM about it ,def worth a look. Good luck and  looking forward to seeing your Bubble top. hope that is a help cheers Trey

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: California
Posted by mikeymize on Tuesday, December 13, 2011 8:41 AM

I agree, the article in FSM's latest issue is great. One thing I can add about masking; I use small pieces of cardboard and/or paper over separate panels to achieve a breakup overall. It can be a bit tedious but has shown good results. I also have used, (very carefully) Tamiya tape to hold down the paper masks with adequate results. I sometimes use a mixture of the MM matalizer along with Tamiya AS-12 bare metal silver or TS-17 gloss aluminum to vary the shades.These two paints are rattle cans and I find they hold up relatively well to low tack tape. 

   Hope this helps.

"Time you enjoy wasting is not wasted time".


  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Illinois
Posted by wjbwjb29 on Tuesday, December 13, 2011 12:15 PM

That finish doesnt even like to be touched let alone masked. It sprays beautiful but needs to be sealed with MM sealer.

 

Bill

On the Bench:   Trumperter Tsesarevich on deck Glencoe USS Oregon

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Tuesday, December 13, 2011 6:31 PM

Thank You for the valuable tips Gentlemen. Definitely what I was looking for. I haven't received my latest FSM yet but I'm excited for the article. Should I have further questions after reading it I'll get back to ya.

                          Thanks Again, Joe

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Tuesday, December 13, 2011 6:57 PM

Definitely, you must use Testor's metallizer sealer over it when it is thoroughly cured.  Then let the metallizer sealer cure completely for a few days, and you should be able to mask over it ok. 

Also note, the metallizer paints, especially the buffing kind, are meant to be sprayed on clean, unprimed plastic surfaces for best results.

I know this to be true, from experience.  Good luck!

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    April 2010
  • From: Somewhere in MN
Posted by El Taino on Tuesday, December 13, 2011 7:12 PM

I have used the buffing version which I have to use cotton gloves to handle. As Bill, said, the finish wont like to be touched. At least in my experience, masking is next to impossible, tape wont stick well to the finish. Sealers, even the native MM sealer for metalizers take away the metal finish look and you'll end up with a dull gray instead. If you have an airbrush, my humble suggestion is to use Alclad 2 instead.

Here is a sample, painted with Buffing Aluminum rattle can. Polished with a cotton rag and handled with gloves for the finishing touches. The finish loves finger prints. This model has no sealer and look as it was when I panted it almost a year ago.

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: Monterey Bay,CA-Fort Bragg, NC
Posted by randypandy831 on Wednesday, December 14, 2011 8:08 PM

MM Metalizer loves finger prints and hates masking tape. i never had good results shooting out of my HP-CS and HP-CR. it's like it drys to fast. sprays then stopped but my badger 150 fixed the problem. i'll just stick with alclad or hawkeye. 

tamiya 1/48 P-47D $25 + shipping

tamiya 1/48 mosquito $20+ shipping

hobby boss 1/48 F-105G. wings and fuselage cut from sprue. $40+ shipping. 

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