How do you put up your models before Airbrushing?

I use Tamiya's paint stand. Pretty inexpensive and very adjustable. Look here

I usually hold the model with a gloved hand (so I can spray at the best angle all over) & spray top surfaces and bottom surfaces in two different sessions. Most of my builds have different colours top & bottom anyway.

Hercmech

I use Tamiya's paint stand. Pretty inexpensive and very adjustable. Look here

yeah, I allready knew it exists, but I haven't found any of those around here and I never order online,
But I'll be sure to buy it when I see one!

VanceCrozier

I usually hold the model with a gloved hand...

When I am laying a base coat down I generally just place the model on a flat surface and shoot as much surface area as I can without touching it. Tamiya acrylics is what I shoot exclusively and they dry quickly. If I'm careful I can most of the time avoid finger prints though I have put my mark on a model or two in my day. Otherwise, when I do more detailed paint work, like shading and such, I feel I have more control with a hand, be it gloved or not, holding it. Holding a model in places that have yet to be painted helps, like sticking a finger in a jet's tail pipe or something, or the wheel wells.

Ninetalis

 

 

VanceCrozier:

 

I usually hold the model with a gloved hand...

 

Well you cant just hold it while holding it at places that you don't paint and having enough grip on your model at the same time?
Or do you?

 

When I'm spraying the underside colour, I usually hold the model with a thumb on one side of the cockpit; finger on the other side. When it's time to paint the topside I use masking tape to make a tab on the bottom - as long as I don't go "flying" it around too much it will hold on to smaller 1/48, and no problems at all with 1/72 scale.

I mainly do twin/multi jets, so  usually have at least two exhaust holes (can's mounted afterwords) to use for mounting & use a bent coat hanger or fence wire for heavier kits.

Bend it at 90° in the center, lay it flat & about 15cm from the point, bend up the two end vertically, then bend 1/2 of the verticals horizontal (forward back toward the point but parallel with each other). The A frame ish bit coming away from the 90° bend sits on the deck & acts as a support & the horizontal parts go up the tailpipes. This gives me enough height to do the top & sides in one go & as it's flexible wire, it can be adjusted any way you need, to do the underside just pull the mount out & invert it, or put two in to start with....

If any of that makes any sense?

VanceCrozier

 

 

 

When I'm spraying the underside colour, I usually hold the model with a thumb on one side of the cockpit; finger on the other side. When it's time to paint the topside I use masking tape to make a tab on the bottom - as long as I don't go "flying" it around too much it will hold on to smaller 1/48, and no problems at all with 1/72 scale.

Oh okay, Well i did figure out about how you hold it when painting the downside, but thee topside was a mystery for me, but i can follow now, that's pretty smart.

Regards Ninetalis.

VanceCrozier

 

 

When I'm spraying the underside colour, I usually hold the model with a thumb on one side of the cockpit; finger on the other side. When it's time to paint the topside I use masking tape to make a tab on the bottom - as long as I don't go "flying" it around too much it will hold on to smaller 1/48, and no problems at all with 1/72 scale.

I do the same. Or if I have some area pre-painted and masked (say, the rudder) I'll hold it by that. I find the ability to lift, turn, and manipulate position really beneficial.

For the underside, I've used the tape-tab approach, but I actually prefer to make a tab out of some scrap cardboard and tape that down. Less flopping.

For sitting an aircraft down, I make heavy use of two PVC t-joints with masking tape on the top to provide some scratch protection. Very sturdy, very cheap. 

Milairjunkie

I mainly do twin/multi jets, so  usually have at least two exhaust holes (can's mounted afterwords) to use for mounting & use a bent coat hanger or fence wire for heavier kits.

Bend it at 90° in the center, lay it flat & about 15cm from the point, bend up the two end vertically, then bend 1/2 of the verticals horizontal (forward back toward the point but parallel with each other). The A frame ish bit coming away from the 90° bend sits on the deck & acts as a support & the horizontal parts go up the tailpipes. This gives me enough height to do the top & sides in one go & as it's flexible wire, it can be adjusted any way you need, to do the underside just pull the mount out & invert it, or put two in to start with....

If any of that makes any sense?

Lol I had to use google translations to fully understand what you were trying to say, I can roughly follow what you are trying to say but it isn't really easy for me what u completly try to say, do you have a picture of how you do it?

Regards Ninetalis.

I made this. You can put the pegs in any holes to fit the aircraft gear points or whatever.

GreenThumb

I made this. You can put the pegs in any holes to fit the aircraft gear points or whatever.

Wauw, that looks great, and made out of cheap stuff to, only question,
The thing with the holes, what's it made of?

Regards Ninetalis.

Get yourself a bunch of alligator clips from Radio Shack, with the red and black plastic collars with a hole approx. 1/8" dia for the wire, and some 1/8" wooden dowel stock and a big block of styrofoam from Hobby Lobby.  Cut the dowel into convenient handle lengths, and stick them in the wire end of the alligator clips with a little super glue.  Now you can be creative attaching the clips to the model as needed and stick the dowels ends into the styrofoam block so it's standing up on stilts, sort of like the previous photo, and have at it!  Works well for one small part, or an entire model.

You can also sharpen the free ends of the dowels with a pencil sharpener, to make it easier to poke it into the styrofoam!

Ninetalis

 

GreenThumb:

 

I made this. You can put the pegs in any holes to fit the aircraft gear points or whatever.

 

 

Wauw, that looks great, and made out of cheap stuff to, only question,
The thing with the holes, what's it made of?

Regards Ninetalis.

It is a piece of MDF (medium density fiberboard). Some call it particle board.

You could use any wood for that matter or just use a piece of Styrofoam and push the pegs in where needed.

GreenThumb

It is a piece of MDF (medium density fiberboard). Some call it particle board.
You could use any wood for that matter or just use a piece of Styrofoam and push the pegs in where needed.

Great, I will look into it!

Regards Ninetalis.

Ninetalis

I can roughly follow what you are trying to say but it isn't really easy for me what u completly try to say, do you have a picture of how you do it?

Milairjunkie

 

This Better?;

Looks great, I totally understand what you mean now, that's pretty good/smart.
I know how i'm gonna paint my arado ar 234 and me 262 now

Regards Ninetalis

GreenThumb

I made this. You can put the pegs in any holes to fit the aircraft gear points or whatever.

Mike: that has to be one of the greatest inventions ever! 

I'm going to blatantly copy that idea - so simple, easy to build and use, but effective.

Thanks for sharing!

cml

 

 

Mike: that has to be one of the greatest inventions ever! 

I'm going to blatantly copy that idea - so simple, easy to build and use, but effective.

Thanks for sharing!

Glad you like it Chris and by all means copy it. If it makes modeling easier for someone then that is awesome. I copied it from someone else on this or another forum (Can't remember which) many years ago so far be it from me to take credit for it.

Here are a couple of other pictures of it closer up.

The base is 11-1/2" in diameter, the holes are drilled 1/2" CTC but they can be any size you prefer. I just wanted them to be close enough that I could get the rods in enough positions to hold most anything I wanted. In fact I think replacing the plastic rods with a bendable material would be even better. Maybe some copper tubing or something with a rubber protector on the ends to protect the model finish?