On another thread we're quibbling over thinners. Just stumbled on this bit on howtoairbrush.com. In an
introductory article on "basics" the author is comparing Gunze/Tamiya
(which he does not include with acrylics) with enamels: I'd never heard
about the reactivation stuff:
"Tamiya and Gunze Sanyo (Also marketed as Mr. Color) Both behave pretty
much the same. I thin them both with Gunze's Mr. Thinner. There are a
couple issues with these paints. They aren't as durable as the "oil
based" stuff. They are a little healthier than the "oil based", but they
are not "Non Toxic". A couple advantages. They have an ability to, what
I call, "Re-Activate"....if I get a fingerprint or a little dry spray, I
have found that I can spray pure Mr. Thinner over the area and get it
to flow again and smooth out. This can be done even after it has dried
for weeks. Also, if you really screw up, Windex takes the stuff right
off. Very handy for beginners."
Anyone validate this? That might be a useful tip if someone didn't watch a thumb or left something a little uneven. (I would never do either of these things.) Be a lot easier than touching up with paint. If true it does give credence to the notion that Tamiya and Gunze paints are closer to lacquers than acrylics - if that matters. As I understand it, when an acrylic ages and starts to get lumpy, it's going to die pretty soon and there's nothing to be done. An older lacquer, on the other hand, can be revived nicely by adding some thinner.
Eric