airbrushing model master enamels

DoogsATX

 

I always seem to have dust and/or fiber issues, and microfiber cloths have just never helped.

 

Try an automotive painter's tack cloth. It's sticky and will grab all the dust.

B-17 Guy

 

Anyway my question is what parts that come with the badger krome do I use for area painting vs the parts for fine line. Most of what I do is wide area, so which tip and needle do I use for that? And how do I identify one needle from the other, is there marks that I'm missing somewhere?

The needles have grooves on the back end, one for ultra fine and two for fine.  At least mine do.  The tips and spray regulators are too small to mark, so you will have to go by size comparison.  The fine will give you a larger spray pattern.

It may be difficult to get nice even coverage on a large NMF model with the Krome.  I'd practice on some bottles first.  If you do mainly wide area painting, I think you would be better off with something like the 155 Anthem.

Don

Yeah I would try getting closer. Also, depending on the color and wear you're going for, the fine needle can be great for a battered, uneven finish, especially with aggressive black shading underneath.

wjbwjb29

Don try a micro fiber cloth. It should atract the dust away from the surface of the model.

Bill

I always seem to have dust and/or fiber issues, and microfiber cloths have just never helped. Last weekend I picked up a "dusting brush" at a contest down in San Antonio. The thing is amazing, like a miniature broom. I was having major issues with paper towel lint from wiping off some sludge wash, and the dusting brush just smacked it all away. 

I imagine those car dashboard "detailing" brushes would probably work in a similar fashion. Nylon-type bristles about an inch long, in a circle about the size of a nickel. Good stuff.

Don Wheeler

The fine tip, spray regulator, and needle are the ones that come with the Rage.   The Velocity comes standard with the ultra fine parts.  I believe that's what you have.  The ultra fine needle has one groove on its blunt end.  The fine needle has two grooves.

What you are calling the needle protector is really the spray regulator.  It's the front piece and the brush won't work without it.  There are two types.  One has prongs to protect the needle, and the other has no prongs and fully exposes the needle.  The one without prongs is risky to use, but some users want to be able to pick dried paint off the needle.  It could be that you have both types.

You might want to look at my Krome review.  It's pretty much the same as the Velocity.

One source for the parts is Coast Airbrush.

Don

So I got a question Don. I have a badger krome, I had the same velvety texture when I painted with it last. I figure it was mainly just from being too far away from the model, not dust.

Anyway my question is what parts that come with the badger krome do I use for area painting vs the parts for fine line. Most of what I do is wide area, so which tip and needle do I use for that? And how do I identify one needle from the other, is there marks that I'm missing somewhere?

I'm mainly asking because I've got A 1/48 B-17 to do in NMF and I need to make sure my krome will be set up for area painting to get the finish right.

Thanks for all the responses, it's been a great help! Lots of variables, but even the velvety finish is better than  the old spray cans!

Jesse

Don try a micro fiber cloth. It should atract the dust away from the surface of the model.

Bill

You might want to practice with your present parts on some junk plastic.  They will do a nice job. You just need to get closer and make more passes.  Play with the thinning too.  The small tips like a little thinner paint.  Glad I could help.

Don

Thanks for all the help. I will order these parts tomorrow! Other than that I love the velocity, easy to use.

Jesse

The fine tip, spray regulator, and needle are the ones that come with the Rage.   The Velocity comes standard with the ultra fine parts.  I believe that's what you have.  The ultra fine needle has one groove on its blunt end.  The fine needle has two grooves.

What you are calling the needle protector is really the spray regulator.  It's the front piece and the brush won't work without it.  There are two types.  One has prongs to protect the needle, and the other has no prongs and fully exposes the needle.  The one without prongs is risky to use, but some users want to be able to pick dried paint off the needle.  It could be that you have both types.

You might want to look at my Krome review.  It's pretty much the same as the Velocity.

One source for the parts is Coast Airbrush.

Don

Now I have a new question. I see I have a new ultra fine spray regulator, but it's not on the airbrush it seems to be a spare part. What is it for? Can it screw on in place of the needle protector?

Oh wow. I noticed on the diagram it had only fine and ultra fine tips and needles... That makes perfect sense because I began spraying about 2 inches away and it seemed to go on "wet".  I thought to myself that it sprays awfully fine, which is probably why the pre-shading went so good... I will definitely try to find those parts online somewhere (rage needle spray regulator and tip).

Thanks I'll let you know how it works!

I suspect you are too far back.  The Velocity has a fine tip and narrow spray pattern.  If you are trying to get broader coverage by staying 5 to 6 inches away, some of the paint droplets are drying on their way to the model and arrive as dust.  Try practicing on some junk plastic and get closer.  You might want to consider getting the Rage needle, spray regulator and tip for your Velocity.  The larger size produces a wider pattern.

Don

 Now that you mention, it has been cold in the basement where I work... I guess practice makes perfect.

Also, would it be okay to use rattle can gloss clear for finishing or do you recommend putting a clear through the airbrush? I don't want to lose the fine detail and panel lines so I can use a wash for weathering, thanks.

One problem this time of year is static electricity.  Any spray process that sprays through a nozzle puts an electric charge on the paint and subsequently on the model. It then attracts dust like a strong magnet!  I have really had trouble recently, with a cold snap.

I believe for static discharge and conductivity of air, it is the absolute humidity rather than the relative humidity. It was snowing yesterday, but single digit temps and I could not brush the dust and lint off the model- it would just fly back on (I was trying to wipe dust off with a Kleenex, which of course generates a static charge itself :-(

I was wondering if that stuff they sell to keep dust off a monitor screen (I assume it is the same stuff they used to sell to clean vinyl records) would interfere with paint or leave any residue. I have been afraid to use it on models.

Thank you, happy to find other modelers out there!

I'm spraying about 5 or 6 inches away at about 20 psi.  I just dump a bit of paint in the cup and try to get it to the consistency of milk. I don't really know how to measure the mixture accurately.

I got a badger renegade velocity dual action.

first off welcome to FSM! sounds if your not thinning it enough. how far are you spraying from and what is your pressure set at?