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When you say you cleaned the heck out of it, does that include cleaning out the nozzle itself? You have to find the right kind of tool to do this because the hole is small and you don't want to damage the nozzle. But if your seals are tight, you've got a clogged nozzle. This problem has cost me many a problem. If you hold up the nozzle you should be able to see a clear circle at the end of the nozzle. If you can't see a a nice round circle, there's probably a very tiny bit of paint or something clogging part of the hole. (If the nozzle was completely clogged, no air would go out.)
One thing you might try is soaking the nozzle and tip overnight in something strong - lacquer thinner would be the best. (This is exactly the time for a $40 ultrasonic cleaner - trumps for getting paint out of nozzles. One of the most useful tools I have.) I have three different tools I use on nozzles, but the simplest is probably an interdental plastic toothpick - the kind with a brush on one end and a sharp point on the other. The other place for something to get stuck is just in front of or behind the color cup attachment. Pull out the needle (even remove the trigger if it's easy) and you should be able to see right through the whole brush. The obstruction can be very small and still cause the problem you're describing.
I feel for you.
Eric
A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.
It's the tiny tip that screws on with a wrench.
Heard back from Iwata today. They say get a new nozzle. It just doesn't look damaged at all to me, not enough to let that much air through anyways. So I guess I'll try it. Even if that's not the problem they don't warranty that part anyways and it can't hurt having a spare.
I'll report back if that fixes it. At least if somebody searches and this thread comes up they'll get an answer.
Is it a new stye Iwata with the self centering tip, or does the tip thread on using a wrench? I have the new HP CS with the self aligning tip. This bubbling happens to me only when I don't screw the cap on tight enough (shouldn't have to be more than finger tight anyway, but if your tip isn't seated all the way into the airbrush then the cap can't tighten up enough).
I wondered about sealing the threads but I couldn't see getting Teflon tape on those delicate threads so I had left it. Didn't think about bees wax (which I don't have) or chap-stick (which I do) as a thread sealant. I will try that next.
I did look at the nozzle with a 5X magnifier and couldn't see anything. The amount of bubbling is significant. I can observe this well if I put alcohol in the cup.
Going downstairs to try the chap-stick. I'll re-examine the nozzle the first time I focused on the tip looking for burs or it being out of round. I'll check the sides.
Also emailed Iwata. See what happens there. This is when I wish it was a Badger so I can get the service! But alas my 155 Anthem is flawless after 3 years.
Don Wheeler Try putting a little sealant like bees wax or Chapstick on the threads of that little tip. Don
Try putting a little sealant like bees wax or Chapstick on the threads of that little tip.
Don
If the nozzle is fully seated and the threads are sealed as per Don's suggestion, the next thing to look for would be a crack/split in the nozzle. You're going to need some pretty good magnification for this.
https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/home
A collection of airbrush tips and reviews
Also an Amazon E-book and paperback of tips.
Naw it exhibits this behavior with nothing but iso alcohol in the cup. The tip is of course clogged... It's got a needle in it !!
The air is coming into the cup from the forward side. As I've said I've cleaned the heck out of it and seated the needle firmly so I can't see how that much air is coming back through the tip, past the needle.
The HP-C plus has a tiny tip that unscrews but the rest is part if the body of the brush and doesn't come out. I'm wondering if it's faulty.
A little history... I bought this brush as a returned item from a store. I think this is why it was returned so I think it's been doing this since new.
Air seeks the path of least resistance. If you're getting blow back, then the nozzle is clogged or your paint is too thick.
Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt
http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/
"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."
Hey guys,
I have an Iwata HP-C plus Eclipse. I'm finding if I give air but not pull back on the needle I get a blowback into the cup. As I pull the needle back it slows untill about halfway back when it stops. So if I'm doing detail work my paint get full of bubbles.
I've cleaned and cleaned. (best I can, it's a small tip!) I've examined the needle into the tip fit under a 5X magnifier it looks like there's contact all the way around. I don't see any burs or out of roundness of the tip. The needle also is bur free and straight. This is the only place I can see air coming into the cup. Am I wrong on that? I used alcohol to check and sure enough with the needle forward and air on it bubbles *** crazy!
It's like the air can't escape from the brush fast enough so it build pressure and get past the needle. Any Iwata owners maybe this is normal for that brush? I'm going to start looking at replacing parts soon so any advice there?
Incidentally the brush still seems to function fine save for some pulsing when you have the needle back some.
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